Odyssey PC545 Battery conditioning

[footgoose]

6 hours ago, docc said:

Dig deeper and you’ll find the 6 amp minimum and 12.65v charge threshold.

I’ve seen these things brought back from states that other batteries would not survive.

BTDT... people... listen to the Doctor

[po18guy]

The ground at the trans was tight, but I gave the hex wrench a little tug just in case. 30A fuse was fine. Loosened, wiggled and tightened the battery terminals.  Started fine all day. Still, will pull the starter bra off and check that connection.

Am wondering if battery temp affect power flow? IMhas to be extremely cold or oerheated - neither of which was the case on a 60ºF day.  I might just use an IR thermometer next time to see.

[Chuck]

Just because the ground was tight, it doesn't mean that it is not corroded. I'd take it loose, take my stainless toothbrush to the mating surfaces, spread a little Vaseline on both, tighten and forget.

[LowRyter]

14 hours ago, docc said:

Understanding the voltage sequences, and amperage requirements, is key to the care&feeding of an Odyssey PC545. Sure, it means extra care and understanding, but how is that different from caring for a twenty year old (magnificent) Italian motorcycle?

So, even my 4A computerized charger still isn't enough for this battery?

Sequences?   I need to call Mission Control.  

[docc]

That 4A charger will likely be just fine if you don't let the battery sit and drop below 12.65v before discharging  (turn the lights on a few minutes) and charging it.  If it gets below that threshold, it takes six amps or more (no limit, Odyssey says) to actually charge.

One of the bewildering things is that a flat battery can go on a charger and the little green light comes on, but the battery doesn't stay charged well. This is because the charge is largely on the surface and not deep in the plates. Odyssey uses pure lead plates, not just a thin layer of lead paste like others. This is why they require significant amperage to truly charge (and stay charged).

[swooshdave]

Which of the 14 pages has the latest guide on how to bring an Odyssey battery up to snuff?

[po18guy]

20 hours ago, Chuck said:

Just because the ground was tight, it doesn't mean that it is not corroded. I'd take it loose, take my stainless toothbrush to the mating surfaces, spread a little Vaseline on both, tighten and forget.

Time, time permitting...

What I did do was check the starter cable which was, say, snug but not tight at the starter. So off it came, wire brushed both sides of the cable lug, nut and washer, as well as the threads on the starter. Once tight, a swab of 3M silicone grease on the metal bits and silicone spray on the boot. Next up were the cable lug at the battery end and the terminal of the battery. Once they were shiny, all was snugged up and routine starting was restored. 

Time permitting (New kitchen sink and faucet are job1) I'll pull the tranny ground cable and do likewise. The starter bolts as well, as it appears to ground to the engine cases. While poking around, lubed the side stand so it is now slicker than cow slobber. Still clanks against the un-rotatable header clamp bolt, so pondering that, as the snubber bolt is hiding behind the header.

[docc]

5 hours ago, swooshdave said:

Which of the 14 pages has the latest guide on how to bring an Odyssey battery up to snuff?

That is a great question. Click on the " √ Answered " bar by the topic title to reveal what is, hopefully, a concise summary post.

[swooshdave]

4 hours ago, docc said:

That is a great question. Click on the " √ Answered " bar by the topic title to reveal what is, hopefully, a concise summary post.

I don’t see that on mobile. Let me get to a laptop. Ok, still don't see it.

Edited May 8, 2020 by swooshdave

[docc]

2 hours ago, swooshdave said:

I don’t see that on mobile. Let me get to a laptop. Ok, still don't see it.

Too odd. I saw it earlier, but not now. I'll see if I can reset it . . .

[edit: okay, there you go. Thanks for heads-up!]

[swooshdave]

1 hour ago, docc said:

Too odd. I saw it earlier, but not now. I'll see if I can reset it . . .

[edit: okay, there you go. Thanks for heads-up!]

Two things, you have to be in the forum view, not the actual thread to see the Best Answer thing.

Second, I may have clicked on another response and unset the flag you had for best answer.

I'm quite the troublemaker.

[po18guy]

From reading here and on EnerSys's website, basically, you drain it with a load to 10V then immediately recharge using a 6A+ charger, never exceeding 15V charging current, until it reads something like 14.2-14.4 volts. The high amp chargers are needed as the AGM is able to absorb a charge much faster than standard, flooded lead-acid batteries - and - because the rapid charge absorption can 'knock the stuffing' out of any sulphated areas, possibly re-activating them.

The low voltage is not damaging if only for a short duration. It is the long-term low-voltage periods that can cause irreversible/non=-recoverable sulphation on the plates.

Or something like that.

Yesterday (one page back) at 12:53 PM, the "official" re-conditioning instructions from EnerSys are posted. Here are two short YouTube vids.

 

[docc]

All good stuff, po18guy!

My understanding is the full discharge to 10v is for deeply discharged Odysseys. That should not be necessary for batteries charged from the 12.65 discharge threshold, although "knocking off the surface charge" with the lights on a few minutes should be helpful getting a deeper charge.  I also monitor the voltage after the lights are on a few minutes. A healthy battery will stay above 12.0v.

[swooshdave]

So leave it on the charger all the time or not? On my Greenie it will definitely suck down the battery when off. For the Odyssey in the Norton it doesn't.

[docc]

My understanding is that it is better to let it discharge statically after terminating the float charge, but not below 12.65v (at 77ºF/25ºC).

Although, the approved chargers supposedly "know" what to do and you can leave them connected.