Scud Posted June 18, 2016 Author Share Posted June 18, 2016 Today's plan was clutch, Roper plate and some other little stuff. Given that I was uncertain about the mileage, I was curious to see the condition of the flywheel. It looks about the same as the flywheel from my 12,000 mile parts bike - no visible signs of wear on the teeth. Clutch bits top to bottom: Parts removed from LeMans and not re-used Parts installed - pressure plate and back plate from parts bike, new discs and intermediate plate. Leftovers from parts bike The clutch plates I removed from the LeMans were thin, but not worn all the way down. However, the springs were MUCH softer than the new springs. I think the clutch might have gone a bit longer if the springs were still strong. Therefore - probably a good idea to replace the springs whenever one does a clutch. Engine is still out and I have a little problem: This tab broke off the stator while I was cleaning up (I left the generator connected when I dropped the motor, there is plenty of wire). But I still have the complete engine from the parts bike - all the fins broke off the rotor when it crashed (the alternator cover was dented in just enough to snap all the fins). The stator seems to be OK. I haven't worked on one of these before - does it seem like I might be able to get one good alternator from these two? Is it OK to swap stators without also changing rotors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted June 18, 2016 Author Share Posted June 18, 2016 Just pulled the 2 stators - dang, they are rusty. [url=http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/v11com%20misc%20photos%20posted/LeMans%20Project Assuming I can swap them - does anyone know how or if they should be cleaned? Sorry for the basic questions - never had occasion to get into one of these before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 No expert advice here. I've only used electronics cleaner over the windings, but I don't know if that's a good idea. I've heard there can be issues with the magnetism keeping them separated from the rotor? Curious that the (fragile) yellow wires are red on the stator on the right . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted June 18, 2016 Author Share Posted June 18, 2016 Yes, the shop manual warns not to leave the rotor and stator separated - or they can de-magnetize. I put them right back on after taking the photo. So... I just got the motor back in, and am moving on to the Roper Plate part of my long day of wrenching. Barring advice to the contrary, I think I will swap stators and clean them with some De-Oxit spray. Parts bike to the rescue!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 I don't see an issue with it. I've never heard of different rotor/stator combos on the v11. Either way not too bad of a job to swap if it doesn't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Good info on the clutch btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dl.allen Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Scud, I chased tuning issues a long time until I finally got Guzzidag going and found the previous owner had been messing with the CO trim. I move it around a bit and eventually just put it back to zero. Also, the bike is extremely sensitive to exhaust leaks. I went with the machined metal bushings in the cross over to get everything sealed up. the 3000 rpm hiccup finally left after that. If I use ethanol gas it will pop once in a while. With premium non ethanol it runs perfect. How did you set your sag up on the suspension? I had my Sachs re built by race tech and haven't got around to adjusting it yet. Thanks and great work on that bike! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted June 19, 2016 Author Share Posted June 19, 2016 Thanks. It's getting better and better - can't wait to try out the new clutch. It pulls way firmer than it did before. Someday I will get around to learning GuzziDiag... too busy with major mechanical issues lately. Last weekend front and rear brakes on the truck. Scura is up for a clutch next. I need a good, long ride. For suspension - go to the Reference Section of this site, then Fileshare, then Öhlins manuals, then download the pdf for the front fork or rear spring. You'll see a section in there about setting spring pre-load. It has excellent illustrations about how to measure sag - then you adjust preload to try to get sag to be within correct range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twin AH Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Hey Scud ............. your a busy guy. Thought I would toss this one in your direction............ would you happen to know of anyone with a Stucci belly cowl for a Griso or of where I might acquire one or similar? Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted June 19, 2016 Author Share Posted June 19, 2016 Yeah, busy... just trying to get the bikes in order so I can ride them for a while without further wrenching. For the belly pan, try Ghezzi-Brian. I got belly pans for the V11s from him - very good quality. http://www.ghezzi-brian.com/en/tuning-moto/tuning-moto-guzzi/griso/belly-pan/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted June 20, 2016 Author Share Posted June 20, 2016 New sidestand with fresh powdercoat. I've been waiting to install this till I got the Roper Plate. Also installed a sidestand switch. The PO had bypassed that switch, and the sidestand was missing the button that activates the switch. It had ground off when the bike was down - and I missed that on my pre-purchase inspection. I know a lot of people bypass this switch, and I guess it sometimes fails. But I did ride off one time with the stand down; fortunately I just nicked it on a mild left. I think I will shorten the wire on the plug from the old switch and keep it on the bike. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Test-fit the Ghezzi-Brian belly pan, which has been sitting on the shelf for a long time. Looks kind of good in white, but I think it will probably turn red later. I confess to nudging the hammer into the picture... Recently received the Ghezzi-Brian rear fender - got that installed too. The kit is easier to install now, because the mounting holes are pre-drilled in the fender. It still has it's imperfections (see this thread for discussion) but since it arrived from Italy in a re-used wine box wrapped in Moto Guzzi branded packing tape, that makes everything OK. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBBenson Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 I want a belly pan. Well, not for me, but for the Sport. Did you order direct from Ghezzi-Brian? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Yes, ordered direct. I'm not aware of any US-based importer. They offer a carbon fiber version as well as the paintable, fiberglass one in the picture above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 How's the feel of the new clutch btw? I know you've been chasing your tail a bit with the lemans. Not sure if you've got a proper ride on the new clutch or not. I think in the next winter or two I might be in for that job... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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