Scud Posted May 8, 2015 Author Share Posted May 8, 2015 Happy handlebar day. Gauges functioning and almost all set (details in the Speedhut gauge thread referenced earlier). New fluid tanks, powdercoated dash, blackened screw heads, had to remove the brake line at the master cylinder to properly reinstall the rubber grommet where the line passes through the under-fairing. A lot of things had been routed awkwardly for the PO's high bars. See "before" picture of bars/dash in first post of this thread. In other news - I just put it back together enough to ride it around the block and make sure everything I've done so far was working (and mostly to test the oil pressure sender and gauge). It's coming back apart again for: looser valve adjustments and valve cover gaskets, new throttle cable (I noticed a kink at the throttle body and frayed strand, due to the stress on the cable from awkward routing)... and the list goes on... I think I am about done fussing with electric stuff and wire and hose re-routing. Although I just noticed that I need to re-route the line from the rear master cylinder to the reservoir, which was also routed awkwardly to accommodate the lower and more forward footpegs. Just glad it fired up with everything re-attached and/or replaced (including new battery). The rest should be fun - but I'll be away on business travel next week, hopefully the rest of my parts will arrive while I'm away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 I am sorry for not getting in on this brake conversation til now... I do not know if WD-40 contains ANY petroleum distillates , products or not. If so , please get some rubber brake components and soak them in it for a day or so ...let us know what happens . Brake rubber parts are NOT compatible with petroleum products , period . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 Thanks for the input - I've still got some time before I put it on the road. Meanwhile I did some additional research/reading. Here's what I found: Lots of people swear by WD-40 as a brake caliper cleaner (so long as it is not left to sit or allowed to contact the pads) and say they've used it for many years with no ill effects on bikes and cars. Lots of people warn that WD-40 is among the worst things you could ever do to your brake calipers. WD-40 does not divulge their secret formula, although they disclaim that there is no fish-oil in the recipe. Apparently some people think that spraying hooks or bait with WD-40 helps catch fish... can you imagine the conversations at the fishing-forums (if there is such a thing)? But WD-40 is a solvent and Water-Disbursement agent more than it is a lubricant. Lots of people advise for using brake cleaner. Nobody advises against using brake cleaner. If I had some spare brake components around I would happily conduct an experiment - although I think I will stay away from the WD-40 now. It seems like brake cleaner is the safe way to go and I think I will take 'em off and give 'em one more cleaning, maybe get the pistons moving even more freely. A couple other questions, since we're talking brakes (and I have recently read too much): Do you use any type of lubricant around the pistons after cleaning the calipers? In past, I have just used brake cleaner and no lube. How often are the calipers likely to need rebuilding? Kits are cheap and that's one way to make sure everything is in good order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 You can Google " petroleum on brake parts" and see what you find out . Prove it to yourself . Go buy a brake caliper rebuild kit for a brake caliper & a fresh can of WD-40 . Let them soak for a couple of days . Then you will keep petroleum based fluids from brake parts . NAPA sells a Raybestos brake assembly lube you can use when working on your brake calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Thanks - I think I will try that experiment at the next opportunity. Meanwhile - I'm back to brake cleaner. I only used WD-40 once, based a friend's advice. He'll be interested in the experiment too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBBenson Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Those black reservoirs look cool. I want some like that. Where did you get them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 The reservoirs and brackets are by Rizoma. I found them at a discounted price with free shipping at http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/scripts/prodList.asp Tanks come in many sizes/shapes/colors. I got part number CT025 in black. There are several bracket options, the one for Brembo master cylinders are part number CT450. FWIW - I used the same size reservoirs (that they call "tanks") and brackets for clutch and brake, because I like the symmetry. Tanks are a little bigger capacity than the stock clutch tank and a little smaller than the stock brake tank. I put the same on my Scura a few months ago (working fine) and the guys at my local dealer said there is no problem running a little smaller capacity on the brake cylinder for street use so long as you check/change the fluid at regular intervals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 Here's a little thing I'm pleased with (and this one's cheap). $10 for a pair of these smoked LED turn signals. They fit really well on the stock fender and are much brighter than the stock signals. I could not get them to fit on the fairing, which was my original plan. Of the four stock signals I had, only two were nice enough to put back on. I originally had the stock (and tinted) signals on the back but moved them to the front. Did you know that you can run LEDs in the back and incandescent up front without changing the flasher unit? I didn't know that, but all four signals are working... lucky me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted May 10, 2015 Author Share Posted May 10, 2015 I got a little package of parts delivered yesterday, so was able to get it on the road this weekend. Here's the rest of the sorting out: Retorqued heads along with new valve cover gaskets and O-rings. (had to remove PO's adhesive from one cover... tedious...) Adjusted valves to .006" Intake and .008" Exhaust. Set suspension sag. Went through the TPS and throttle body synch procedure. The TPS breakout harness is really handy - and I got to test my homemade manometer for the first time. Installed clutch and brake switches. Elongated holes in side covers to get them to line up and not rub the tank. Re-glued heat shield under tank Changed transmission and final drive oil - used the Redline Shockproof gear oil. Dang, that stuff is crazy... it was still clinging to the funnel after sitting overnight. Final (I hope) fussing with wire, hose, and cable routing. Took it for a 100-mile shakedown. Here she is in her natural habitat - and returned pretty close to stock. Ride report: Oh man, I love these bikes... (preaching to the choir, right?) It runs sweet and strong. I don't know how much power the Kit Racing ECU and exhaust add, but the sound is rumbly and glorious and makes me think it's faster. Hard to say which changes were most important, but I think getting the small pods off, replacing the stock airbox and putting the sensors back in the right places was probably most important - then the general tune-up stuff. I did notice a few very minor hiccups at idle after running hard, so I think I will go through the TPS and balance procedure once more - making sure it is at full operating temperature this time... like the instructions say... Originally, I was disappointed that the PO cut the Titanium cans down (a few inches shorter), but they're really growing on me, despite the fact that they are a little ratty. As for handling, let's just say I would have been absolutely thrilled if I had never felt the Ohlins. However, I think the Sachs shock is not in good shape - maybe it was crap to begin with, but the fact that it ran for a while with a much shorter spring probably didn't help. So I think I am in the market for a replacement shock. I didn't even think about the Shindy steering damper - so that must mean it's working well. It also needs a front tire. Gauges all working now (but pending new oil pressure sender that will let the gauge start at 0). It's nice to have the volt and oil gauges instead of the warning lights - after reading so much on here about oil pressure and charging issues, the gauges give peace of mind. I now believe that my earlier oil light concern was due to a faulty sensor. So, let's call this Phase One and ride it for a little while. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Nice job Scud. That was a brave job to cut down those titanium pipes by the PO. They look good though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRD Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Dam Scud, great job! That is a great looking bike now, and you made the upgrades in such a short time. I really like the way you mounted the oil pressure and volt meter gauges, I am considering doing the same on my bike. Thanks for posting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 Thanks guys, the bike cleaned up even better than I hoped, although the paint is not perfect. Here’s another gratuitous photo – cuz what’s better than looking at pictures of bikes? http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/v11com%20misc%20photos%20posted/LeMans%20Project/IMG_3157.jpg From this angle, you can see how the Ti pipes tuck in. I really like the shape and position of these. I was impressed when he told me he cut them down. That does seem like a tricky job, not one I’d feel comfortable doing. The LH side has some, let’s say, “bonus rivets” when compared to the RH; these contribute “character” to the bike. I don't miss the front crossover exhaust pipe or the winglets on the fairing, nor do I miss the bright orange turn signals lenses, which are morally wrong on red motorcycles. From this angle you can see almost everything else I’ve been thinking about powder coating. A deep bronze, very close to the color of the Moto Guzzi logo on the tank, is available. I’ve been thinking to do: wheels (which have some chips and scratches), alternator cover, valve covers, plug guards, porkchops, and fuel door that color. But darkness is also beckoning and I like the one with the black porkchops in the gallery that I referenced earlier. So maybe everything should go flat black, which is the same as the first batch of powdercoating and the exhaust hangers, passenger pegs, and rear brake master cylinder guard which you can (barely) see in this photo. Is anybody happy with an aftermarket fairing mount mirror? Ideally something that looks a bit lighter and does not have a rubber boot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Uh-oh, phase 2 started... Does this red tail piece look familiar? See post #128 of: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18247&page=9 Thanks Chamberlin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 I'm (of course) partial to color matched body work . . . Le Tenebre sul Fuoco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jexmatex Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 very nice job, i d'love to be able to do stuff like that miself, as i dont even know how to dismount a wheel... waiting for stage two Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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