rossi46 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 so I'm going to fit one this weekend, other than disconnecting the battery is it just a case of removing the wires from under the fuse box and soldering? any tips? cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve S Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 That's about it Valentino, I've done away with the fuse but if you did that and your bike went up in flames I would never forgive myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossi46 Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 surely the fuse is protecting something! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 If you want to remove the wires (instead of snip them) you need to remove two yellow plastic bars from the fuse box first, then the wires with the fuse-pin connectors will slide out the bottom of the fuse box. As for soldering, don't count on only the solder to hold it together; get a strong mechanical connection first. Bend bare wires to be connected at 90 degrees, then wrap the bent ends around the straight parts of the opposing wires - resulting in a straight connection (not a stubby T-shape) that the solder can flow into. I used the 3:1 heat shrink tubes that have adhesive inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 So that's how they come out, I wonder if you can get replacement parts. I was thinking about a fuse block like that for my Eldorado project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danl Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 You can buy the whole fuseblock with male spade connectors (instead of crimp terminals) on Amazon for $8: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H9K8556/ref=s9_simh_gw_p263_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-4&pf_rd_r=0JAT6R41NV4EVJREKART&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2090149182&pf_rd_i=desktop That will get you 16 terminals you could use in your fusebox to re-purpose any fuse locations that aren't being used anymore. Not as good as crimp terminals, but it's one of the factory connections - my bike uses spade connections on two of the circuits so that the Chassis harness and ECU harness are not permanently tied together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 So that's how they come out, I wonder if you can get replacement parts. I was thinking about a fuse block like that for my Eldorado project. Yep - pretty tricky little setup. You have to relieve pressure on the yellow bars from inside the fuse block, then slide them out. The wires and terminals still have one trick left. They have little metal wings that bend backwards if you just yank 'em out with pliers. Once you see where these are, you can push them in a bit with a small flat screwdriver and they will come apart more easily. The ones I bent were salvageable though, they bent right back into shape. Sorry, I didn't take a picture of that. I replaced the whole fuse block (mine was broken) when I put in the Maxi fuse holder. I got a complete wiring harness from e-bay for $15; it was listed as "for parts only." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Obviously, heat sinks are an issue for this circuit with its potentially high amperage. Some connections, even soldered, can create a heat sink as can zip-tying the harness hard together or to the frame. Lap solder, tie "softly." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossi46 Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 like this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 I did mine this way: There's a commercial for a special soldering product (which I don't have). Later, the video shows how to do the strong mechanical connection first (no clips needed). I know there are lots of different ways to join and solder wires. I don't know what's best, but this video made sense to me. FYI - one of the connections will require that you join three wires together. I took the two from the fuse block, twisted them into one, then soldered them to the Maxi fuse holder, which has a much thicker wire than those that originally went to the fuse block. Maybe Roy can advise re best techniques? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossi46 Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 thanks great video, neat tool too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 I got my lap-splice method from one of the other forum members years ago who referenced this NASA document (.pdf). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moto fugazzi Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 I did mine this way: There's a commercial for a special soldering product (which I don't have). Later, the video shows how to do the strong mechanical connection first (no clips needed). I know there are lots of different ways to join and solder wires. I don't know what's best, but this video made sense to me. FYI - one of the connections will require that you join three wires together. I took the two from the fuse block, twisted them into one, then soldered them to the Maxi fuse holder, which has a much thicker wire than those that originally went to the fuse block. Maybe Roy can advise re best techniques? What I don't like about this method is the the wire ends are pointy and can cut through in insulation over time. I try to smooth them out. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arkansas Rider Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 I looked at your NASA doc. I feel you need a good mechanical connection before solder is applied. Go back and look at the next method in the NASA doc IMHO this one is much better than a simple lap with no mechanical connection Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 I looked at your NASA doc. I feel you need a good mechanical connection before solder is applied. Go back and look at the next method in the NASA doc IMHO this one is much better than a simple lap with no mechanical connection Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks for that. I never thought of it that way and it makes perfect sense! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now