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Ram Mount.

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Maybe if you have a 13" flat screen attached but not with the standard 4-5" screen GPS.  I have seen guys with much longer mounting arms who have not had any problems either.  All the torque is transferred to the stainless allen head screw.  If your worried about the vibration just loosen the adjuster nut on the mounting arm, let it slip on the mounting balls a little.  Like I said before, this is the unit I have had for over two years with no problems what so ever.  I thought it looked more secure than mounting it to clutch master cylinder reservoir.  I suppose a better option would be to stick with paper maps :P:

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JRD, thanks for the pix.  Some Q. How did you get the piece that goes into the steering stem into the steering stem?  Did you remove the top nut to insert the piece?

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Nope, just popped the little cover out of the steering stem tube which is hollow.  I had purchased two RAM Fork Stem Base kits.  One for each of the bikes I had at the time.  I ended up using the fork stem ball, the flat head machine screw(the allen head screw that goes thru the mount down into the S/H tube, the 5mm nylock nut, and one of the nut pocket washers.  I did not use any of the rubber expansion plug that comes in the kit.  I just cut a small piece of rubber fuel line tubing to use as the expanding/clamping portion of the kit.  I sent a picture of the entire kit to Swoosdave earlier this morning, hopefully he will be along soon and post so you can see what the parts are I am referring to.   

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33801820452_bef8a76fd8_c.jpg

 

This is a little crude but if you were worried about the mount sticking up to much you could always trim the lower part off.

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So now that I'm home I got a chance to try the stem mount. I didn't have as much luck as JRD. I'll photo document so that other people can see what I did.

 

10dfb38ea044bbb009f906f929a3b5df.jpg

 

Slipping a razor under the cap. Once it lifted a little I went to a straight blade screwdriver. It's a round plug in a hex hole. No twisting needed.

 

b4c5e1ffab5b5d7b5a1db698f3e5fd89.jpg

 

aff88212de05ac9b9f0b1a7a413160b2.jpg

 

So following JRD I used a short piece of vacuum line. Just the right size to fit in the hole. Note that the included nut is JUST the right size to fit the hex. Also don't lose the nut down there. It won't fall out the bottom!

 

2e176876dd9a40cb2187ff5c16519e5e.jpg

 

Unfortunately the hex area is only about 10mm thick and then it opens up into the stem so there's nothing for the mount to grab onto. So I don't know how JRD did it.

 

The mount is cast aluminum and very sturdy so even sticking up like his did should be a problem.

 

So I'm stuck, not in a good way.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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If the threaded part of the mount was long enough, couldn't the assembly be clamped in place with a washer/bolt at the bottom of the hole. My 1125R has a similar thru hole and I vaguely remember using some 1/4-20 all-thread to mount my GPS in a similar location. 

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Except no one knows what's at the bottom of the hole! My probe bottomed out about the length of the screw and just brought back grease. How the stem is attached is still a mystery.

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I just removed that big nut with the hex opening.  It is not "completely" structural, the triples are clamped to the steering stem, so that top nut is more decorative than functional.  With that big nut gone, the rest of the installation is easy peasy.

I assume JRD did likewise.

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I just removed that big nut with the hex opening.  It is not "completely" structural, the triples are clamped to the steering stem, so that top nut is more decorative than functional.  With that big nut gone, the rest of the installation is easy peasy.

I assume JRD did likewise.

 

I'd hate to assume that nut is decorative - and then find out that it's not. It seems to me that it might have a clamping, or locking, function to prevent things from loosening up. Obviously, the plastic insert is decorative, but even that prevents water from getting into the steering stem.

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I'm pretty sure that nut is the jam nut for the steering head bearing adjusting nut. It *may* be different on the Zook triples, so can't say. At any rate, I have a dollar that sez it's not just decorative.

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That chrome piece with the allen opening is indeed the top yoke nut. Part 13 in this diagram.

 

http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-le-mans-sport-naked-1100-2001-2002/front-fork-i-en-v11-lemans-sport-naked-2001-2002.html

 

Shoving an expanding screw sleeve in there seems like a particularly savage way to mount something to your bike, but who am I to judge...

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Chuck - I don't think your dollar is at risk, so you can rest easy. The triple clamps are the same for the Ohlins and the Zooks. To show the function of the nut, think about assembling after lubing the steering bearings:

  • Lube steering bearings
  • Tighten bearings with large thin adjusting nut
  • Install top triple clamp
  • Use the chrome nut (the one that bbolez removed) to jam the triple onto the adjusting nut
  • Then tighten the pinch bolt on the top triple clamp

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That chrome piece with the allen opening is indeed the top yoke nut. Part 13 in this diagram.

 

http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-le-mans-sport-naked-1100-2001-2002/front-fork-i-en-v11-lemans-sport-naked-2001-2002.html

 

Shoving an expanding screw sleeve in there seems like a particularly savage way to mount something to your bike, but who am I to judge...

 

It's rubber. It's pretty hard to be savage with rubber.

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I just removed that big nut with the hex opening.  It is not "completely" structural, the triples are clamped to the steering stem, so that top nut is more decorative than functional.  With that big nut gone, the rest of the installation is easy peasy.

I assume JRD did likewise.

 

Well, maybe but if you take off the nut and install the mount to the nut then how do you tighten the nut back into place?  :ninja:  :huh2:

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I'd just drill and tap a hole in the top clamp and be done with it.

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