Jump to content

Koso combined tach/speedo installation


stewgnu

Recommended Posts

Hooray my replacement clock has arrived.  I'll take pics + document the fit just in case it's useful for anyone else. :)

 

So, old clocks are now removed, including speedo cable which was severed at the yolk-end right where that wicked bend lies.
When I unscrewed the end at the tranny, it released a good amount of rain water which I assume wasn't helping the longevity of the cable.
Plus, at the back of the clocks, one speedo wire and two tacho wires were severed...  who knows why, but that'll be the flickering lights then eh? :angry:

 

The wiring colours on my bike differ from the previous threads I've read, so here's my bike's colour-scheme:

 

PINK                    - TURN R

BROWN               - H/BEAM

GREEN                - TURN L

BLACK/BLUE       - OIL

PURPLE               - NEUTRAL

WHITE/YELLOW  - FUEL

 

As I've the Ballabio handlebars, yet have a sport headlight fitted, the front end looks kinda empty without the OE clocks.
The new unit is reet cool + compact looking so I'm wondering how best to fit it, aesthetically.

It has a fuel meter like the other Koso units; as no-one seems able to hook them up to our beautiful, desirable beasts, I'm thinking of maybe retaining the fuel light and mounting it separately off to one side.

 

Tomorrow I start the installation and amateur fotograffy.

 

Stew

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stage 2 reached :) :

Unit came with 6 magnets so I used them all.  I found some 'Super Steel' epoxy and attached to the disc mounting bolts:

magnets.jpg

 

I copied Stuarto49's idea for mounting the sensor off a plate attached to a hole drilled thru the caliper mount.  The pic shows a temporary plastic plate- the final one will be cut out of a bit of metal:

sensor%20pickup.jpg

 

Here's a pic of first wire-up following a good, hard crimping sesh:

first%20wire-up%202.jpg

 

Another temporary measure!  This is the ignition hook-up wire, traced back from the key switch to the 4-way connector that sits behind the front left edge of the pekky tank.  It'll want splicing in properly to finish:

ign%20wire.jpg

 

Another view of both ends of the crimps.  Can also see where I've cut 2 new holes in the bottom of the headlight bucket and lined with grommets to allow me to hide the wires in there:

crimped.jpg

 

All tucked away:

wires%20hidden.jpg

 

A shot of the new unit in place, using the original mount.  I'm not 100% pleased with the location yet- it kinda fouls the key somewhat and the key fouls the selection buttons.  Probably will make a whole new mount up at a later date for best placement:

new%20unit.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the full (edited!) wiring details are as follows:

 

Function         V11 wire     to     Koso wire

---------------------------------------------------

Turn L             Pink                   Blue

H/Beam           Brown                Yellow

Turn R            Green                Orange

Oil                   Blue/Black         Grey

Neutral            Purple               Purple

Fuel                White/Yellow      Dark Green (Not used)

 

Positive           Battery +            Red

Ground           Black                  Black

Ignition            Green/Black       Brown

 

RPM wire        Yellow/Black       Blue/Yellow

 

 

The revs are set to 'Hi Active' on the unit settings for correct functioning (Whatever that means).

Wheelbase measured at around 1858mm.  I've not had the opportunity to validate the measured speed as yet...

 

One problem I do have is that the neutral light is 'on' when in gear, and 'off; when in neutral. :angry:

I'd love it if someone who knew about electrics could enlighten me as to why this may be occurring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work -especially hiding all the wires in the headlight bucket.

 

Wish I had the answer for you on the neutral light. It's totally backwards, right? - off when it should be on - on when it should be off. Maybe read up on what signal the gauge wants to read - then test and compare to the signal in the wire.

 

I am curious though. I've only seen one magnet used for these types of speedo. What is the reasoning behind using six magnets on the front wheel? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unfortunately, there's no info I can find on the neutral light signal or troubleshooting. :huh2:

In theory it still does the job...  when it's off I know I'm in neutral!  Bit unnerving to see the wee green 'N' winking at me whilst moving though.  I'd like to get it sorted obviously.

 

I used all 6 magnets as the instructions state:

"... Higher number of magnets installed will result in a faster speed display on the gauge."

I can't compare to using less, but it does read nice and quick.

 

I've just cut a sensor bracket out of a piece of ally, another little snag sorted.

I also mounted the speedo off to one side and it looks much better in my opinion.

 

One more snag is the fuel light.  At the moment it's tucked away with all it's wiry buddies in the headlight.
One thought I had was to drill a (nother) hole in the bucket, maybe at the top or rear, and mount the light there.  Like an informative barnacle.  Either that or get used to peering into the tank regularly!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very cool, and I wish I could help you with the neutral light issue. Maybe it's in the programming of the Koso?

 

Your wheelbase measurement of 1858 sounds accurate. I have my Sigma wheelbase programmed at 1835, and I think it needs to go up just a little bit. It's hard to verify for sure with my GPS, as the both have a slight delay with MPH. 

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, a mate said maybe contact the manufacturer about it. 

The speedo feels to be under-reading but that's just my arse-on-the-bike sensor- I don't know for sure yet.  Poss the revs too...

hmmmmmm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think if you were on the wrong ignition wire (many) other things would NOT work at all, or certainly not work correctly.  

 

My KOSO is entirely different from yours but I would expect that the neutral light circuit is the same.  I'll look into my wiring a bit and post my thoughts.  

 

Stuart

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Stuart, any pointers gratefully received.

 

Edit: It was the wrong ignition wire- it's Green/black, not Green.

Also realised it needed a separate wire run to the battery... What a dope I am. :whistle:

Just the wonky neutral to sort now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Suggest you try to contact the manufacturer about the neutral light.  If no luck with mfr. we could probably rig up a simple solid-state relay to reverse this signal.  

 

Turn ON the light in Neutral.  I could test it at my end first, of course.  

 

Stuart

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've messaged the supplier, no suggestions from them as yet.
Solid state relay eh?  Tell me more!

Here's latest pix of the sensor mount and gauge re-location program:

 

IMAG0953.jpg

 

IMAG0954.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That wheel sensor mount certainly looks familiar.  

 

Most solid state relays are Single Throw - that mean it will not 'reverse' the logic (contacts ON when relay is NOT energized, and the reverse)..  

 

However there are very small 12VDC relays with Double Throw contacts - I've got a few in my workshop.  And this kind of relay, tucked into your headlight bucket will reverse the logic of the signal from the bike and light up the Neutral light when you are IN NEUTRAL.  I suspect you could find such a relay locally, probably for about 5 quid.  Some are plug-in style, which require a small socket.  Other can be wired directly with no socket.  Often the socket costs more than the relay.  

 

Posted below are a couple links to such relays.  You must get one with a 12V  DC coil.  

 

http://www.automationdirect.com/static/specs/78relays.pdf

 

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/12v-relays-sockets/399?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=1-9_Cats_BP&utm_group=12v-relays-sockets_399_BP

 

Almost any standard automotive relay would work, but it must have 5 terminals so that the Normally Closed contact can be used.  

 

If you find a relay I will explain how to connect it - very simple!  

 

Stuart 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, actually, one of those relays might work fine for this application.  First we need to test the circuit coming from the bike.  On my bike that's a violet wire - which you have connected to the KOSO neutral indicator.  

 

As a test, disconnect that wire from the KOSO and let's test the relay on that circuit.  On most of these relays the coil terminals are 85 and 86.  Connect that purple wire to one of them (85) and then connect 86 to the ground on the bike (12V-).  Turn on the key and see if the relay pulls in (clicks)  Disconnect and reconnect that ground wire to be sure.  If that has no result (relay NOT working at all in Neut or in gear) then you should try connecting the 86 terminal to 12V+ - clip onto the battery on some other handy + terminal.  Again, turn on the key to see if the relay pulls in in Neutral, or in gear.  I would bet that the relay will function either from 12V- or 12V+.  Once we determine what the relay is doing we can work out the other connections - just a couple of wires.  

 

If you have SKYPE I can help you in person.  Especially if you can set up your laptop near the bike.  

 

Stuart

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...