docc Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 I've always thought it such a good idea of Kiwi_Roy's to add an indicator light to Fuse 8 to show that power has made it through the Ignition Switch and the Run Switch. So, I've fished out the connector to my original electric petcock and clipped the connector off the petcock itself to make ready for a green LED to tell me "systems are go." But I have some questions about the whole affair: Why couldn't we just poke an LED into the fuse block in place of the fuse? Without the connector fastened to something would the LED light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 I think Roys idea is that if you're having intermittent power to the ECU etc. that you should see it real time. Maybe you hit a bump and momentarily lost power due to a bad connection. Would do you no good sitting still in the garage with it running. Maybe coil up some wire under the seat with LED ready to be implanted in helmet or taped to dash if you experience problems... It has to be seen for momentary power loss basically. Not sure if that was the question or not.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Yeah, roger that. I was hoping not to cross the headstock with more wiring. I was thinking that if I were trying to trouble shoot, the bike would already be on the sidestand and the seat off . . . I forgot about the *intermittent fault* indicator. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danl Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Could you mount the LED just behind the headstock, alongside the spine where it is visible in the notch of the tank? You might need to lean forward a bit to see it, but then again, you're hoping not to need to look for it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Could you mount the LED just behind the headstock, alongside the spine where it is visible in the notch of the tank? You might need to lean forward a bit to see it, but then again, you're hoping not to need to look for it! Right? On the early tanks, the notch is quite deep and the light could be sistered to the frame's crankcase vent; even using the bolt head to "back" the bulb . . . Good call! I'm liking this plan. 150 count of various LEDs should be here in time to stay up late working on the bike the night before a trip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 I think I've found a perfect spot for this indicator. (pictures later). So, diagnostically: If the light is lit, the current is making it through all the choke points (ignition switch, run switch, relays #1 and #2) and the sidestand switch (stand up/in gear) and neutral switch/ relay #3 (stand down/in neutral)? If the bike sputters underway, and the light flickers: the trouble is *one of the above*? If the light is on and the bike won't run, it is one the back two relays, the ECU, coils, or fuel pump/injectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Something like that, I suspect the Voltage has to drop well below 6 Volts before the ECU relay will drop out Perhaps you could mount it on a bracket so it's normally out of sight and swing it out when needed, I just have mine under the seat but when I was having intermittent faults I had a lamp in the brake lever pivot point with a wire draped across the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Perhaps you could mount it on a bracket so it's normally out of sight and swing it out when needed Like this? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moto fugazzi Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Brilliant! On a side note, Kiwi Roy added LEDs to his relays. Why don't they make relays with lights built in? Or a version like the fuses that light up when they blow? Seems like a guy could make a small fortune inventing a relay like that. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danl Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 So I think this means that if you feed power into the petcock connector (from a battery tender connector let's say) you can power up the ECU and the start switch (with the run switch off) to get the bike running if the Ignition switch or something in the side stand circuit goes south. Is this right? It looks that way from the wiring diagram. Actually it looks like you could power up the whole bike if the run switch and ignition switch were on, but the wiring and 5A fuse on the petcock circuit might not be able to handle the current. I have an electrosport regulator, so I think I would charge the battery too, even with the run switch off. If this is true it might be a good idea to keep a harness to send power into that connector in the tail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 9, 2015 Author Share Posted October 9, 2015 Good question about back-feeding the electrics? I got a (3V) LED assortment to build my Go_Winkie, but obviously - this ain't gonna work. Looks like I'll be making this weekend's ride without the reassurance of a proper Go_Winkie . . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Rock & roll, docc... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEOlTZGuLKM 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 So I think this means that if you feed power into the petcock connector (from a battery tender connector let's say) you can power up the ECU and the start switch (with the run switch off) to get the bike running if the Ignition switch or something in the side stand circuit goes south. Is this right? It looks that way from the wiring diagram. Actually it looks like you could power up the whole bike if the run switch and ignition switch were on, but the wiring and 5A fuse on the petcock circuit might not be able to handle the current. I have an electrosport regulator, so I think I would charge the battery too, even with the run switch off. If this is true it might be a good idea to keep a harness to send power into that connector in the tail. Yes, if you jamb a wire in with fuse 8 and the other end in with fuse 1 or 2 the ECU will be ready to go and the bike will crank over. The only thing is you have no way of shutting it down so better to include a switch also. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 The LED thing did not work out for me, so I tinted an 18v "grain-of-wheat" bulb with blue VHT paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 Grafted it to the connector from the electric petcock: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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