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Synthetic Oil


Archimedes
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The new 'guzzis state 10W60 synthetic.  It's my belief that synthetic is best used in a air cooled motorcycle engine, where the syn will not "fry crispy" like dino oil.  Especially if/when you get stopped in traffic on a hot summer day...   Naw,,, that never happens, right? :2c:

The later 4 valve engines that have cooling passages around the exhaust ports in the heads require a full group 4 synthetic to deal with the heat although 60 weight is a total overkill in my opinion.  

A 40 weight will have better flow through those cooling passages and the big ends and mains certainly dont require a 60 weight with regards to load carrying ability.

Seriously, anyone not using a full synthetic oil these days has their head in the sand.

Will the engine survive without it?... sure, but it so outperforms mineral/fortified oils its rediculious.

Its a bit like arguing crossply tires a better than radials.

Ciao 

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  • 5 years later...

I've got 75k service to do so ...

Accidently picked up Penrite Synthetic 20w-50 instead on mineral at Supercheap.

Seems Synthetic has the thumbs up here.

Do I need to use something like engine flush between draining oil & refilling? (I'm changing oil filter)

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My HiCam overheats horribly in traffic and I cannot understand why, on the open road it's fine although still on the hot side, around 110-115C

I always use a full synth, at the moment I'm using Motul 300V 15W/50.

I use the full synth as I'm told it can stand the high temps without breaking down.

When in traffic it can get up to 130C, although by that time it's drastically losing oil pressure and I need to stop.

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8 hours ago, cash1000 said:

I've got 75k service to do so ...

Accidently picked up Penrite Synthetic 20w-50 instead on mineral at Supercheap.

Seems Synthetic has the thumbs up here.

Do I need to use something like engine flush between draining oil & refilling? (I'm changing oil filter)

Not only do you not need to flush the old oil out, if you find you are out in the middle of nowhere and need to add a quart of oil and all you can find is dino, you can add a quart of dino oil to your sump of synthetic oil as needed. The two types of oil are fully compatible. In the early days, they sometimes didn't mix well. But those days are gone.

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5 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:

Not only do you not need to flush the old oil out, if you find you are out in the middle of nowhere and need to add a quart of oil and all you can find is dino, you can add a quart of dino oil to your sump of synthetic oil as needed. The two types of oil are fully compatible. In the early days, they sometimes didn't mix well. But those days are gone.

I mostly agree.  I did some research checking Motul 5100, 7100 and 300 motorcycle brands.  The 5100 is a synth blend, 7100 is full synth, and the 300 is racing synth.  The first two can be combined with any weight and any type of synth or dino oil.  But the 300 is not recommended to mix with other types and weights.  

Good info to know if you are traveling and need a top up and know that 15-50 or 10-60 isn't available.   Some guys want "racing" oil but it may not be a good option. 

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I use the 300V not because it states racing ergo the best (not necesarily)

My reason for using is it's easily available and can withstand high temps, high revs. Motul spec sheet (that I've seen) states that other uses include street bikes and scooters.

I only use the bikes in the summer, around 1k miles a year and changed anually.

The spec sheet also states it can be mixed with other synthetics and mineral (although you'd then be diluting the properties)

Running a full synthetic is the key IMHO, the brand is of secondary importance, but that's just an opinion with nothing to back it up.

I think most motorcycle owners over think oil brands and Guzzi engines especially the 2V/V are pretty tough.

Some HiCams must stand stupid amounts of abuse. I've very little evidence on the Daytona/Centauro engines, but when pressure and/or temp gauges are installed (temporarily or permamently), out the factory these engines can be running with stupidly low pressures and some, high temps into the bargain. They seem to do fine and the failures that do happen to these engines are connected with the badly designed pump.

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