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What did you do to your V11 today?


Scud

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Get the rear wheel off the ground and apply the brake & release . If the rear wheel does not release and it is stuck , loosen the caliper bleed screw and see what happens . Do this a couple of times to see what happens . If it does not release , the problem IS the caliper & go to step 1  If the caliper releases go to step 2 .

#1 . Pull the caliper off the wheel and push each piston out (w/the master cyl. pressure) to see which piston is sticking . If you feel capable remove all pistons and inspect . while you are doing all brake work , use Brake-Kleen only . No petroleum products. When you go back together , go to an old style auto parts store for some brake assy. fluid and reassemble. 

 #2 Rebuild brake master cyl.  

Be deliberate in all steps and tests .

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It's the dreaded 'outer rear drive needle bearing' day (s)

Seems the only way to get the old one out is disassemble the drive? 

Then there's the bit about someone in the past using quite a bit more black RTV than necessary.

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14 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:

It's the dreaded 'outer rear drive needle bearing' day (s)

Seems the only way to get the old one out is disassemble the drive? 

Then there's the bit about someone in the past using quite a bit more black RTV than necessary.

I would just use a blind bearing puller and failing that disassemble the bearing until all thats left is the outer race and then collapse that. I'm remembering the outer race on these is a formed sheet style and not a machined cage, is that right? If it's a machined outer ring I'd do the same then if I couldn't grab it with the puller I'd run a light bead of weld around the inside of the outer race and it will fall out.

Ciao  

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19 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

I would just use a blind bearing puller and failing that disassemble the bearing until all thats left is the outer race and then collapse that. I'm remembering the outer race on these is a formed sheet style and not a machined cage, is that right? If it's a machined outer ring I'd do the same then if I couldn't grab it with the puller I'd run a light bead of weld around the inside of the outer race and it will fall out.

Ciao  

Yeah, still wondering what it'll take to wreck it apart. Considering the inside cover's adherence to the housing, prolly do that.

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29 minutes ago, stewgnu said:

you can ‘’carefully’ chew it out with a small cold chisel.

A cold chisel is nothing without The Hammer . . .

 

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The correct answer here is that the washer behind the bearing race has room to push the race out enough to catch the inside edge with a driver, and carefully drive it out from the inside. Use a soft punch or brass drift to move the (hopefully hardened) washer towards the outside, then move the washer aside to have just enough race to catch with a drift, which needs a good edge. Easy peasy. A proper blind puller on a slide hammer would make short work of it.

Wish I'd known before I added some dimples to the outside race edge of the housing.

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Took the “grape ape” V11 for its annual MOT roadworthyness test today. A pass so it’s back on the road after the winter hibernation. Oil & filter changed, but it needs a good tune up, 

95908A33-9674-4A90-9B62-64ED254B6747.jpeg

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So I took the rear brake off, found that it heated up enough to melt the rubber. :luigi: So I got it cleaned up enough for a rebuild kit. It also left residue on the rear disc and wheel. :doh:

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/5/2022 at 1:35 PM, Joe said:

So I took the rear brake off, found that it heated up enough to melt the rubber. :luigi: So I got it cleaned up enough for a rebuild kit. It also left residue on the rear disc and wheel. :doh:

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those bastards can get damn hot.  i melted the anodising off the disc once.  got to refresh it every year or so i reckon.

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