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What did you do to your V11 today?

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59 minutes ago, gstallons said:

Docc , if you want to move this to another category , please do .

Not sure where to put it. Sounds like a great TechTopic for thread of its own. Maybe when you perform same on your Greenie?

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9 hours ago, gstallons said:

I separated them .  That is where the 1,000 pics will come in .

How did you get the screws out for the aluminium cross piece? Mine are going to strip the heads out if I use any more force and i'm assuming they have used red loctite on them as usual and I'll need a lot of heat for them to release. 

Ciao

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I don't know how different they will be , but I will record the next event . The greenie will not run well in town . It sputters and acts up below 35mph . Everything else is gonna get me in a "whole heap uh trouble" .  

I need to check this speedo for accuracy . This little thing wants to go WFO !

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13 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

How did you get the screws out for the aluminium cross piece? Mine are going to strip the heads out if I use any more force and i'm assuming they have used red loctite on them as usual and I'll need a lot of heat for them to release. 

Ciao

Phil , this is where the word SnapOn comes in . Mine had factory sealant on them . Do you have a heat gun you can use to warm up the aluminum around where the screws are in the throttle body ? Be careful , this is similar to a self vasectomy w/o sedatives . It either works or ooops .

The hardest were the screws holding the fuel injectors to the throttle bodies . My motivation was , I had nowhere to go but up !

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I can't guarantee your results . My bike was gonna work or go into the ditch .

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41 minutes ago, gstallons said:

Phil , this is where the word SnapOn comes in . Mine had factory sealant on them . Do you have a heat gun you can use to warm up the aluminum around where the screws are in the throttle body ? Be careful , this is similar to a self vasectomy w/o sedatives . It either works or ooops .

The hardest were the screws holding the fuel injectors to the throttle bodies . My motivation was , I had nowhere to go but up !

Yes I tried the heat gun method to no avail. When I pulled the injectors during the Daytona build with the T/B's on the bench the retaining screws were a pain and I sheared the head off one and was lucky to be able to get the remaining piece out. It took a lot more heat than a heat gun though. My r'h throttle body shaft bushes are badly worn and require replacement. I assessed them years ago and should have revisited the wear issue before I fitted them. I've scoped out the bushes and seals by stripping down an old spare set of Ducati bodies and am awaiting another set of throttle bodies from Paul to arrive. I'll then decide on which set to use, I may need to rebuild both sets, dont know.

When the new set show up I'was going the experiment with how much heat was going to be needed to get the support screws to loosen. At the end of the day I'll do a tutorial on how to replace the bushes. What Snapon assistance was the key? just a better fitting allen key?

Ciao    

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 I use SnapOn because of the quality of the tools .

I'm not sure how much the throttle shaft wear would affect the injection system . This "leak" would perform the same as the bypass screws being opened more . There is no O2 system to care how much air comes into the intake mixture or how much is in the exhaust . All air/fuel mixture is "mapped" according to the throttle angle , air temp , cylinder head temp and barometric pressure readings .

Now , all screws came out except one of the fuel injector hold-down screws . I got the throttle body so hot it almost melted the injector holder . It eventually came out .

On reassembly I used Loctite Green . This is just in case I need to do it again . BTW , Loctite Red is kind of ETERNAL isn't it ?

 

 

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1 hour ago, gstallons said:

 I use SnapOn because of the quality of the tools .

I'm not sure how much the throttle shaft wear would affect the injection system . This "leak" would perform the same as the bypass screws being opened more . There is no O2 system to care how much air comes into the intake mixture or how much is in the exhaust . All air/fuel mixture is "mapped" according to the throttle angle , air temp , cylinder head temp and barometric pressure readings .

Now , all screws came out except one of the fuel injector hold-down screws . I got the throttle body so hot it almost melted the injector holder . It eventually came out .

On reassembly I used Loctite Green . This is just in case I need to do it again . BTW , Loctite Red is kind of ETERNAL isn't it ?

 

 

The bike runs and idles fine but I suspect the slight popping on the overrun which seems to come from the right side is due to the air leaking past the shaft. Greater vacuum and airflow due to 3000 rpm with idle fuel values equals lean mixture on the overrun. I've dialled it out with the CO trim although I could also do it on the main fuel map on the closed throttle value at 2-3500 rpm where you notice it.  The most noticeable thing though is the tapping sound at idle, sounds like tappet noise but its the throttle valve moving. The other thing is it affects the initial throttle response as the left valve moves it needs to overcome the wear in the r/h t/b shaft so you can never get it to carburate perfectly off idle. The left opens fractionally before the right. None of this is terrible but I can feel it and hear it. 

Loctite red is high strength and requires heat for hand tool removal. Green thread locker is medium to high and for use on already assembled parts,ie it's a wicking compound.

Green is also the colour of bearing mount loctite.

Personally the only place i can see a need for red Loctite on the throttle bodies is the throttle plate attachment screws the rest only need Blue. Manufacturers are more concerned about averting risk than future maintenance so if they can liquid weld the things together thats the way they'll go. Minimise their risk and maximise your future maintenance headaches.

Ciao

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Finally reunited with my LeMans!  Have not seen nor rode it since last October!  I had done an oil and filter change last fall so the fluids were ok.  Tires needed a bit of air but still look good with just over 5k miles on them.  Put a good charge on the battery over a couple days.  Rolled it out in the driveway, pushed the go button and it fired right up.  

Rode the long way from Hiawassee down towards Helen, Ga.  Immediately after tuning south on Hwy 17 had to wait for the traffic jam caused by a loose steer.  Luckily the steer moved into someone's front yard allowing traffic to clear.  Continued down 17 , then onto SR348 and Wolfpen Gap over to Two Wheels of Suchess.  Low and behold amongst the crowd set TWO MORE Guzzi!  A Balibio and a new 850.  Chatted with the guys for a bit then headed back to the house via SR60, Skeenah Pass Rd. and Hwy 76.  One hundred eighteen miles of great roads and an awesome bike!

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It does feel good to savor a bike ride . To listen to the pathetic racket of the clutch sounds , feel the short (now) throw of the shifter , the crazy MG sound , the odd looks and enjoying exclusivity .

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How did you get the screws out for the aluminium cross piece? Mine are going to strip the heads out if I use any more force and i'm assuming they have used red loctite on them as usual and I'll need a lot of heat for them to release. 
Ciao

Thank God.. screw is out

Heat’n’hammer:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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On 7/8/2020 at 11:19 PM, hammershaug said:


Thank God.. screw is out

Heat’n’hammer:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I thought as much but asked the question anyway as someone may have come up with a miracle. FWIW your strategy is perfectly reasonable but not practical insitu. There is I believe a better way.

Your burner doesn't produce enough high intensity concentrated heat.What you need for maximum effect is a fine tip in an Oxy torch. I'm going to machine up a cylindrical shroud so I dont burn anything around the throttle body and hit it with the fine tip of my Oxy set right on the head of the fastener.

But before that I'll test my process on the other set I have coming and see how long I need to apply the heat to get the desired result.

I mentioned once before it's best to avoid separating these things but sometimes you don't have a choice.

Ciao

  

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On 7/8/2020 at 8:19 AM, hammershaug said:


Thank God.. screw is out

Heat’n’hammer:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Were you able to remove the screw from the throttle body ?

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Yes, I was. Did you?

As you can read from the description on the Flickr page: «Heating and careful work with a hammer and an old screwdriver made it happen.»

Throttle bodies, stabilizer rods, and new hoses are remounted, but Greenie is still in the basement... I'm building a new motorcycle workshop these days. Busy as hell.

Rain tomorrow = replace gear change pawl spring. 

 

Guzzi workshop in the makings

 

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