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What did you do to your V11 today?


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I went to NAPA and found a castle(front wheel bearing adjusting)nut 27mm hex and welded a short 3/8" extension to the nut . AHA ! Now all I have to do is find it when the time comes . 

 FWIW , when you are installing the manhole cover , push it up into the cavity and slowly turn it CCW like you are removing it . When you hear it click , stop and start tightening the cover . no crossthreading again !

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Celebrated twenty years with the Sport today.   

Fitted the new carbon rear hugger and at the wifes suggestion went for a ride on a nice sunny day. Ciao

Well my 2004 V11 LeMans arrived today.  So I met the shipper, brought her home, then tried to figure out how to remove the damn seat!  Eventually, with the help of the Internet and multiple searches,

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23 hours ago, docc said:

 

I spy an Öhlins reservoir? Not a Sachs rear shock, then?

Correct...an install by a previous owner....

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I 'made' a 'tool' for that job out of a bolt with a head the size of the hole. Your next 'uuhg' might be finding a filter wrench to fit whatever filter is in there and small enough to go inside to grip. It's a pita till you get it right. I would recommend to anyone, first time... Remove the pan and get a feel for it. I did find a filter wrench at auto zone cheap.

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BTW , filter "sockets" are exclusive to the brand filter . Find one brand filter you are going to be happy with , find a socket that fits it and stick with them . 

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IIRC the Bosch 3330 is too large to fit through the manhole.  Then the flute wrench I purchased online for the Uni filter didn't fit.  Then trying to get the manhole cover back on kept getting cross threaded and wouldn't go on.  And then.........

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2 hours ago, LowRyter said:

IIRC the Bosch 3330 is too large to fit through the manhole.  Then the flute wrench I purchased online for the Uni filter didn't fit.  Then trying to get the manhole cover back on kept getting cross threaded and wouldn't go on.  And then.........

Lay down the tools, back away from the machine, and nobody gets hurt..:o:D

That sucker is super easy to cross thread. It's perpendicular to the block, but there's an optical illusion of sorts when eyeballing the sump. This very thing is what caused me to buy a metric thread file 20 some years ago.. 

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UGH...went to start trying to figure out the electrical issue with the headlight, horn, brake light loop. I was unable to remove the fuel lines from the two nipples on the fuel pump assembly.  I saw some videos that showed how to release them but no luck what-so-ever and didn't want to snap anything off.  I resorted to lifting up the tank to get a visual on the connectors and "pop"...snapped fuel delivery D nipple on the fuel pump assembly.  I could then figure out what was going on and why both wouldn't release.  The coupler was "stuck" on each and wouldn't allow the "barbs" to move thus becoming one with the nipple.  Was able to finally get the other fuel line off of fuel delivery C nipple and remove the tank inspect the electrical connections.  All look well so time to break out the electrical diagrams and figure out what's up.  Already have a new nipple from MG Cycles on its way and the couplers now move freely and this shouldn't be a problem in the future.  :-)

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Sheesh, bud. Hate it when "Headlight/horn/brake light" makes a guy pull his tank and go down that rabbit hole . . .

All those are on a common circuit through Relay#2 . . .

Here's docc beatin' that OMRON High Current Relay drum again . . .

Not the first time nipples get involved and complicate things. . . :o:huh:;)

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Frustrating but nothing new for me...one step forwards two steps back seems to be the way for me. :-)

 

As the fuse is good and the turn signals work I was thinking a plug is loose and or they (brake lights, horn, headlight) all travel through an electrical component that has given it up.  I'll be back in the shop Saturday and will start with the  relays....maybe it is related to Relay #2.  If so that would be easy.  I can swap relays around from my other two working MGs and either confirm that's the problem or dig deeper on the electrical diagram to see if there is another electrical component in common.  

 

And of course that OMRON relay is listed as discontinued.  

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24 minutes ago, cwr said:

And of course that OMRON relay is listed as discontinued.  

     It might take some searching on here or wildguzzi, but I know I've read threads recently that there were still at least 2 suppliers that still had NOS of those Omron relays.

     good luck

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http://www.dpguzzi.com/

 

Pyro Dan knows all about Guzzi relays and sells GEI  which is what he thinks is the best one.  Better than Omron.  Anyway, get all relays for about $30 from Dan and then keep a couple of old ones for spares in the tank bag.  

Relays won't fix a bad connection.  So clean those sockets regularly.  

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33 minutes ago, cwr said:

Frustrating but nothing new for me...one step forwards two steps back seems to be the way for me. :-)

 

As the fuse is good and the turn signals work I was thinking a plug is loose and or they (brake lights, horn, headlight) all travel through an electrical component that has given it up.  I'll be back in the shop Saturday and will start with the  relays....maybe it is related to Relay #2.  If so that would be easy.  I can swap relays around from my other two working MGs and either confirm that's the problem or dig deeper on the electrical diagram to see if there is another electrical component in common.  

 

And of course that OMRON relay is listed as discontinued.  

So, the turn signals are on a different circuit. As 80CX100 says, there are suppliers that still stock them. Look at the linked post in that thread for “online components.” 
 

Swapping #2 with a minimally stressed relay like #3 might help confirm the issue, but a full set of OMRON High Current relays (G8HE) is a good move, regardless.

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Thanks all for the guidance and link to dpguzzi.  

 

It did end up being the the relay. The 3 OMRON relays are fine and one of the two TYCO relays was the offender.  I reached out to dpguzzi to order the set of 5 as having working spares on hand ensures I will never have this problem again. :-) 

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