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Lucky Phil

V11 Shift improvement

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I just went and looked at the detent roller again after running it through the gears several times.  It is getting punched by the ridges on the detent ring.  It is too soft for the application.  I wonder if I can find a hardened steel bearing that would fit.

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I just ordered a roller from Harpers. They didn't have it in stock; they show it as available, but "low inventory" - and not sure how long it will take to get one. Craig, if you do find a compatible part, please advise.

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I finally installed the roller bearing I found at McMaster Carr.  It is a 8mmx16mmx5mm high precision ball bearing. They go for $6.13 each.  They are dimensionally identical to the solid roller installed by Guzzi.  I doubt they will make a noticable difference in shift feel, but they can't hurt either.

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I finally installed the roller bearing I found at McMaster Carr.  It is a 8mmx16mmx5mm high precision ball bearing. They go for $6.13 each.  They are dimensionally identical to the solid roller installed by Guzzi.  I doubt they will make a noticable difference in shift feel, but they can't hurt either.

Any updates on the Bearing? This may prove to be good information for those that may need it and or those that just simply wish to improve what they have. :)

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OEM Part

  • Name: Roller - for gearshift selector lever
  • Moto Guzzi Part Number: 04234700

Replacement Part

  • Brand: Dynaroll
  • Part number 688HZZ A5
  • Differences from OEM (if any): This is a bearing, the OEM part is a solid piece. 
  • Other Comments: Craig found these and sent one to me. I just installed and it works. Thanks.   :thumbsup:  Bearing dimensions: 8mm x 16mm x 5mm

attachicon.gifIMG_5369.jpg   attachicon.gifIMG_5370.jpg

 

 

I would think that the replacement  True Roller bearing would be smoother and probably less prone to wear?

 

 

I think the shift action was smoother with the bearing. But I also installed a new spring on that arm at the same time, which could have helped.  Oh - and I have road-tested it, but just a short distance.

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Went for a quick and...chilly ride yesterday. My shifting sucks! After re-reading this thread I'm submitting to Phils advice. I'm taking the plunge and attempting to do this procedure.... as best I can.

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Check your external shift linkage first.

Is the foot lever free or binding? The lever pivot bolt can be adjusted for tightness - then locked in place by a secondary nut.

 

Is the linkage nice and tight? A loose bolt on either end of the linkage will ruin your shifting.

 

Is it rubbing on anything or hitting anything? The nut on the forward part of the linkage can hit the starter or the transmission case if it's not on right.

 

After all that... off with the pre-selector. I was pretty intimidated by it at first, but it can be done.

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Is the sheet metal stop plate under the cog, oriented correctly? Should be in neutral.

IMG_0133.JPG

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Also is my pawl spring sitting right? This is a fresh one. It just seems like on the selector side it is barely seated.

IMG_0132.JPG

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Pawl spring looks right to me. But you can push the coil up and down with a screwdriver to see if you can make it sit better. It will probably just relax into its own best spot after a few shifts anyway.

 

The metal plate under the upper cog only goes in one way. It has a tab that fits a slot on the underside of the cog.

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It's normal to have a little performance anxiety on your first time - not being sure how everything is supposed to fit. Now you'll never forget this transmission. Set innuendo on maximum...  :whistle:

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Pardon my prior playfulness.  Here's some actual advice:

 

I needed to re-install a bushing on my pre-selector (since I overlooked it a few days ago). So I took mine off just now.  Having done it a few times recently, here are some lessons learned.

  1. You want as clear and straight an approach as possible so you don't get sealant everywhere. (How did I learn that???)
  2. It's a good idea to dry-fit it first (without sealant) so you have a feel for it and don't get sealant everywhere (again, how do I know?)
  3. Loosen the lower nut on the oil return line and wedge the line as far away from the transmission as possible.
  4. If your fuel line is in the way (top right) you can wedge a screwdriver in there to keep it above the transmission case.
  5. And you probably already figured out that you need to grind down a hex wrench to get at some of the lower bolts. This would not be a problem on the red-frame bikes, because there is no frame rail connecting the engine block to the lower transmission bolt (that goes through the porkchops.

IMG_5958.jpg

 

 

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Number 2 is even more important if the bloody pawl spring decided to die while in some gear. Which it usually does. I then typically forget which gear the mechanism should be in when I'm about to refit. It usually takes some searing, thinking, fiddling with the play in the forks, and switching gears in the mechanism before everything fits snugly.

 

After a quick check that you can switch gears and can easily find neutral (Two screws to hold the plate in place while testing) I remove it again before refitting with sealant.

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