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2002 Moto Guzzi V11 LeMans Revival


Cdogger

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Hey guys. This is my first post on this forum. I was just given a V11 LeMans by my uncle. It has been sitting in his garage for 3 years because of an electrical problem. According to him, something was draining battery power so the voltage regulator tried to compensate and blew up. What should my first step be in diagnosing the problem? I also bought a voltage regulator, battery, fuel filter, oil filter, air filter, and oil pan gasket to help me revive this bike. Is there anything else I should do? Thanks!

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Wow, nice Uncle.

You came to the right place, we'll soon have you back on the road.

First things first get a wiring schematic and a multimeter. Don't install the new battery until you check out the wiring.

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

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Welcome. In addition to the main electrical issue and the engine oil change, I suggest the following:

  • Give it a thorough inspection - maybe even take the wheels off so you can lube everything properly and make sure you have plenty of brake pad left - and that your calipers are working well.
  • Flush brakes (front and rear) and clutch - you want new fluids there.
  • Drain and replace transmission oil and final drive oil - you can decide between the factory recommendation and the Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil that many use instead.
  • Lube the driveshaft - at least the rear if you can't get to the front right away. (the front grease fitting can be difficult to reach).  Figuring out how to lube the front of the driveshaft is part of the initiation ritual.  :grin:
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Welcome. In addition to the main electrical issue and the engine oil change, I suggest the following:

  • Give it a thorough inspection - maybe even take the wheels off so you can lube everything properly and make sure you have plenty of brake pad left - and that your calipers are working well.
  • Flush brakes (front and rear) and clutch - you want new fluids there.
  • Drain and replace transmission oil and final drive oil - you can decide between the factory recommendation and the Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil that many use instead.
  • Lube the driveshaft - at least the rear if you can't get to the front right away. (the front grease fitting can be difficult to reach).  Figuring out how to lube the front of the driveshaft is part of the initiation ritual.  :grin:

 

 

 

welcome. Yes++ to all above. I see you are in MN. After sitting, all those fluids will contain moisture from condensation. I would also remove the gas tank, drain and rinse. While doing that you can see if the tank has suffered any "stretch", a common nuisance caused by the nylon tank reacting to alcohol in gasoline. The tank will seem too long to line up with the rear bolt hole. Not to worry. Also while off, make sure the under tank insulation is not hanging loose, and go ahead and look over docc's "tank off maintenance" http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18195&do=findComment&comment=203204-this will cover necessary basics.(read his last post first) You'll be listening to Goose music in no time.

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there's also a trick on here somewhere for freeing up the rivets on your brake rotors. corrosion from non-use will seize those and may give you a "bent" or, out of balance feel when braking. Really easy, I'll look for it.

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Wow, nice Uncle.

You came to the right place, we'll soon have you back on the road.

First things first get a wiring schematic and a multimeter. Don't install the new battery until you check out the wiring.

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

Great! I do have a multimeter and I printed a wiring diagram. I think I will start with the obvious things like relays and fuses. 

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Welcome. In addition to the main electrical issue and the engine oil change, I suggest the following:

  • Give it a thorough inspection - maybe even take the wheels off so you can lube everything properly and make sure you have plenty of brake pad left - and that your calipers are working well.
  • Flush brakes (front and rear) and clutch - you want new fluids there.
  • Drain and replace transmission oil and final drive oil - you can decide between the factory recommendation and the Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil that many use instead.
  • Lube the driveshaft - at least the rear if you can't get to the front right away. (the front grease fitting can be difficult to reach).  Figuring out how to lube the front of the driveshaft is part of the initiation ritual.  :grin:

 

Cool I will do those. Haha I guess I will try to figure that out first thing.

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Welcome. In addition to the main electrical issue and the engine oil change, I suggest the following:

  • Give it a thorough inspection - maybe even take the wheels off so you can lube everything properly and make sure you have plenty of brake pad left - and that your calipers are working well.
  • Flush brakes (front and rear) and clutch - you want new fluids there.
  • Drain and replace transmission oil and final drive oil - you can decide between the factory recommendation and the Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil that many use instead.
  • Lube the driveshaft - at least the rear if you can't get to the front right away. (the front grease fitting can be difficult to reach).  Figuring out how to lube the front of the driveshaft is part of the initiation ritual.  :grin:

 

 

 

welcome. Yes++ to all above. I see you are in MN. After sitting, all those fluids will contain moisture from condensation. I would also remove the gas tank, drain and rinse. While doing that you can see if the tank has suffered any "stretch", a common nuisance caused by the nylon tank reacting to alcohol in gasoline. The tank will seem too long to line up with the rear bolt hole. Not to worry. Also while off, make sure the under tank insulation is not hanging loose, and go ahead and look over docc's "tank off maintenance" http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18195&do=findComment&comment=203204-this will cover necessary basics.(read his last post first) You'll be listening to Goose music in no time.

 

Great! I'm super excited to hear that thing fire up. I don't actually have my motorcycle license yet so all I can do is sit on it and rev it. I may have to wait until spring to drive it.

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Depending on what relays are in it now, that is likely one of the first, cheapest and best improvements you can make. Get good GEI from PyroDan (http://www.dpguzzi.com/ )or best OMRON from DigiKey.

 

Fuses "should be" fine, but especially look at the ignition switch fuse (if blown, cllean and inspect the ignition switch), and the 30 amp regulator fuse for signs of overheating (see threads on the MAXI fuse).

 

With some patience and some enthusiasm for tinkering, you're going to love this V11! :mg:

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Depending on what relays are in it now, that is likely one of the first, cheapest and best improvements you can make. Get good GEI from PyroDan (http://www.dpguzzi.com/ )or best OMRON from DigiKey.

 

Fuses "should be" fine, but especially look at the ignition switch fuse (if blown, cllean and inspect the ignition switch), and the 30 amp regulator fuse for signs of overheating (see threads on the MAXI fuse).

 

With some patience and some enthusiasm for tinkering, you're going to love this V11! :mg:

This sounds like the perfect bike for me. I have a passion for working on cars and bikes! I think it was missing the 30 amp battery fuse but without the bike here I can't look quite yet.

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