Decent Tune-up

[docc]

So, Q1: yep, dark pipe exits are normal.

      Q2: Yes, baseling the TPS and zeroing the CO address this in their own special ways. Absolutely worth doing on any V11.

      Q3: This ECU uses various sensors to approximate the outcome without oxygen sensors.

 

Others can explain this better than I.

[coreytrevor]

Yes, the muffler tips don't get hot enough to burn off carbon.

 

TPS setting will affect fueling at all throttle positions. CO setting more so at smaller throttle openings. And yes, it helps a lot to get these right.

 

The system is open loop, no sensing of exhaust gases. The fueling is determined by the settings in the ECU and the input from the sensors.

[shiloh]

Ok, got it, thanx guys.

[docc]

Updated the procedure in Post#1 adding links and restoring images. Trying to keep it basic and approachable while linking more information for those seeking more fine tuning, etc.

 

Again, this is not the only way to tune a V11, and it is not "my" procedure, but a compendium of many different collaborators over the years. Thanks to everyone for contributing! Maybe it should be called the "Community Based Tune-up . . ."

[voycie]

Just finished my homemade manometer, pvc tubing 6 ft tall timber with 6ft tails, half filled with coloured water.

 

[68C]

Looks like fun.

 

I use a homemade mercury manometer, had the bottle of mercury since the days it was not considered too dangerous for the common man.

 

Now I get readings of around 8 inches of mercury, what sort of readings do you get with your water manometer?

 

As water has an SG of 1, and mercury 13.5 I suppose you must get around 108 inches of water.

 

Or perhaps I have got my maths and physics wrong.

[JBBenson]

Just finished my homemade manometer, pvc tubing 6 ft tall timber with 6ft tails, half filled with coloured water.

 

 

 

I would use 2-stroke oil instead of water, just in case it gets sucked into the engine.

[MartyNZ]

 

Just finished my homemade manometer, pvc tubing 6 ft tall timber with 6ft tails, half filled with coloured water.

 

I would use 2-stroke oil instead of water, just in case it gets sucked into the engine.

I used auto transmission fluid (ATF) for the same reason. It is just thick enough to allow time to adjust a badly out of synch engine without sucking it into the engine. And it is red.

[68C]

Oil would be even lighter requiring taller tubes.

[68C]

Looked closer at your photo of the manometer.

Perhaps it is not a true manometer. Instead it is a balance tube in which the pipe is one piece , coming from one cylinder manifold then down the wooden support and looping round then going back up the the other side to connect to the other manifold.

This will work with most fluids as the difference in height is only the difference between the two cylinders. My dislike of this system is that if one of the pipes connecting the engine manifolds comes loose the fluid will be instantly ingested. The same may happen if the carbs/throttles are completely out of adjustment. Hopefully there will not be enough fluid in the pipe to cause a hydraulic lock and a bent con rod.

An improvement to the 'balance pipe' device is to have water traps at the top of the tubes. These can be complicated float type shut off valves or a large chamber that can hold the total amount of fluid. An advantage of the chamber is that it damps out the fluid level oscillations.

[voycie]

I've used a thin pipe so there's not a lot of fluid. Tried them out today they work brilliantly, got the fluid equal very quickly. I made these adapters for the balance bolts, using a couple of bolts and drilling a hole through them. With an o-ring on the end they only need to be finger tight then it's good to go.

 

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[voycie]

 

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[docc]

After skipping Step 2, TPS Baseline reset, on my last two Tune-ups, and reading more of what Meinolf has shared with us about the TPS,

I removed any reference to skipping this step.

 

It's only six steps. Just do it!

[gstallons]

What is the recommended TPS v ?  

With a carb stix or whatever you are using and it's content . You are wanting a max reading of each cylinder .

[docc]

TPS Baseline with the throttle plate completely closed = 157 millivolts. We have Meinolf to thank for this very specific derivation. There is no specific voltage for the TPS idle voltage or "degrees opening."  Put that wherever you and the V11 are happy for your conditions and preferences (Step#6)

 

(I am not understanding "max reading of each cylinder" . . . )