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docc

Decent Tune-up

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Like Antiquar said, go easy on them. I used brass washers and shortened fasteners. Obviously, it didn't work out for me, but I would not risk taking them out, installing vacuum taps, removing them, and reinstalling the bolts every 4000-6000 miles. (Yeah, you ought to change the plugs, adjust the valves, and balance your throttle bodies that often).

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Left one is pretty much stripped. If I can I'll Timesert them and never have to worry again.

Finished the tuned up. TB sync was pretty much on at 3k. Finally got CO Trim to 0. Just waited longer after the it asks you to use the kill switch. I think that did it. Idle is right about 1050. Air bleed screws were way off. I tightened them up and backed out one full turn.

 

34431699315_0c25ce131b_c.jpg

Riding tomorrow so I hope to see a big difference. I'm mostly concerned with a vibration at 4K but I've also heard that's not uncommon.


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I don't like the way it running. I suspect I need to up the CO Trim. Also what do the air bypass screws do and why is it suggested to set them at one turn out?

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Did you balance the idle? Most people use the air bleeds for balance at idle then the linkage for above idle then back to air bleeds. Finally Robert will be your mothers brother!

What don't you like about the way it runs?

1050 rpm is a little low imo.

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According to the vacuum gauges the idle was balanced. Same at 3k rpm.

 

It feels less peppy.

 

1050 is what the books says. 1200-1500 is way too high for me. Why does it need to be that high?

 

Where do you like the idle?

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1050 +/- 50 rpm is what the manual says. I like mine higher, ~1150-1200+.

 

Step 6 says something like, "Now put the idle anywhere you like it."

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I could never get a steady idle at 1050. I'm usually where Docc is at.

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Same here. A ~1200 idle also has the side bonus of at least being neutral to the state of the battery charge vs draining it.

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Same here. A ~1200 idle also has the side bonus of at least being neutral to the state of the battery charge vs draining it.

 

I'd rather be riding than idling!

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When I got home I bumped the CO Trim up to 15. I also bumped the idle up to 1100. Keep in mind at 1100 my charging light is off.

 

 

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The bump in the CO Trim brought back the peppy.

 

 

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Same here. A ~1200 idle also has the side bonus of at least being neutral to the state of the battery charge vs draining it.

 

I'd rather be riding than idling!

 

Me, too, but when riding in the city the bike unfortunately spends a lot of time twiddling its thumbs. 

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Finished the tuned up. TB sync was pretty much on at 3k. Finally got CO Trim to 0. Just waited longer after the it asks you to use the kill switch. I think that did it.

 

Thanks for posting that detail about waiting. I've been trying to figure that out for while. My Scura was at -68, but running fine except for taking 2-3 attempts to start and occasional burpy idling. I counted to 10 between each screen and performing the requested action (such as turn off engine with kill switch). Until now, it kept showing -68 when I reconnected. And today FINALLY AND THANK-YOU VERY MUCH it showed 0 when I reconnected. Idle seems to be smoother already - it would be cool if it starts on the first crank when cold... wait and see...

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Wow. 68 is a lot.. I predict you will see a difference.   :)

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Ok dumb newbie Q.

The bike, 2000 v11, runs fine, idles fine but i've noticed the tail pipes are blk and sootie which to me indicates an overly rich burn, or is that normal with these.

Q. Does tps and co trim adjust this?

Q how does the ecu know if there's no o2 sensor? O2 sensors monitor ignition gases, yes, in order to stay with in emission guidlines.

Sorry for the inquirey, but I think I need a grade 2 explanation to understand how this works.

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