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30 amp fuse failure


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Hey Docc,

 

Do you have an on board voltmeter or other means of monitoring your charging while riding?  My original regulator would overcharge intermittently.  I didn't have a voltmeter installed, but I would notice the headlight and instrument lights being much brighter for a few seconds.  I went through all the connections, checked the voltage reference and added a regulator to engine case ground, but the problem continued and eventually it began doing this for longer periods of time, swapped it out for an Electrosport one.  I wonder if you may have a similar situation going on with your regulator?  I guess every 8 years would be really intermittent, huh?

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After reading docc's original post on this I liked the idea he had and the way he did it so I went out and looked at the 30 fuse receptacle on my Greenie , even though it was still functioning  it was

Gentleman, I want to thank you all for all of your insight, education, and encouragement. Let's face it, what I'm posting isn't "rated" for anything.   *Entertainment Value Only*  

If the fuse looks ok check the connectors from the alternator to the reg/rec for overheating

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Thanks, danl.

 

No onboard voltmeter, but also no indication of fluctuating voltages (varying light brightness).

 

I'm trying to figure a way to put a screw into that flinky connection, but it will be at full voltage and I'd hate for it to rub into the frame and throw sparks.

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I've been thinking about this, and I agree with Kiwi_Roy, when he said in post 13 of this topic

"As you can see the fuses aren't blowing, it's just a high resistance that causes heating".

 

The only possible way that a fuse can melt without fusing is if there is contact resistance between the fuse and fuse holder. All the other things that I and others mentioned can worsen the problem, but a bad connection is the cause of heating.  

You need another fuse holder.

When you have fitted the new fuse holder, fit the fuse with great gobs of vaseline or similar. The grease will squeeze out to allow metal to metal contact, but should keep the connection tarnish free for years.

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Makes perfect sense, yet this is the biggest, bestest fuse holder I could find. :bbblll:

 

Maybe someone has a link to some marine or aircraft grade MAXI fuse holder?

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Don't try and re-use the fuse itself get a new one. Instead if using a fuse holder consider drilling the fuse and bolting the fuse to lugs.

 

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

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Don't try and re-use the fuse itself get a new one. Instead if using a fuse holder consider drilling the fuse and bolting the fuse to lugs.

 

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

Well, I certainly fitted a new fuse and tried to "clean" the fuse holder (scrubbed the female spade connectors with a jewelers file and tightened them with some slip-joint pliers; sprayed the connectors with Caig DeOxit/Gold, Vaseline on the spades).

 

On my third fuse holder, so not feeling very confident at this point. Sure, I could run a screw into it, but the screw head will be +/ hot and have to be insulated from its surroundings. I thought of using a couple wraps of electrical tape, but don't find that to be a very elegant solution . . .

 

Perhaps I've let my ground path get funky. One of the troubles with having one bike for so long, you may be led to think, "I fixed that already." :whistle:

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Docc - the champagne LeMans I just got has a marine MAXI fuse holder in it. I'm away from home on business so can't take a picture, but it's installed where the little tool-tray would otherwise go. Very clean installation - although it does prevent use of the tool tray. I'm sure other locations could be made to work too.

 

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--maxi-fuse-block-for-30a-to-80a-loads--594343?cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-Shopping_PLAs-_-594343&adpos=1o6&creative=108421552324&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KEQjwqfvABRC6gJ3T_4mwspoBEiQAyoQPkQ8vve0bJlTcw7lH18MglAfMVxUVJMi85AYOuF0Q5U0aAsaz8P8HAQ

 

 

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See? That is totally bad-ass. Red, and everything.

 

"Wires up to 4AWG" . . . that's like welding cables, yeah?

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Yeah - according to the description, you could run a small winch or a refrigeration circuit. You need it to keep the brews in the bags cold for the next South'n Spine Raid after-party. 

 

I discovered it yesterday when I took the seat off. I said "What the hell is that?" 

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My local auto electrician offered me an automobile fuse & fuse holder.

Its not red, but it is cheap, and is not so big that the seat won't latch down.

See the pink fuse in the bottom RH corner of attached photo.

V11 Battery Not Charging Fixes.jpg

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I should have said replace fuse and holder, once a pair if contacts

have been arcing it's very hard to get a good contact again. Have you thought of soldering the fuse into the holder, a bit drastic I know.

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

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Scud-When you get a chance, can you please post a picture of the Maxi Fuse holder and how it is installed on the bike.  You guys have me paranoid now and I think Im going to upgrade my bike just to avoid any possible problem.

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You can snoop around a good auto parts store ( established ones with adults who know what you are looking for ) and find a 30a MaxiFuse holder . This fuse holder can be mounted anywhere that is convenient . You can Google pics of these fuse holders to see what fits your need . DelCity is a good vendor to buy from. You have to understand not all parts are of equal quality . I would PREFER buying from aircraft parts vendors. Their components have to be perfect.

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I'm already using a circuit breaker for my headlamp circuit.

 

Would this work for the charging/regulator circuit? (Realizing the 'screw termination' will have to be managed for the self-same heat issues that apply to fuse blocks.)

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