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30 amp fuse failure


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After reading docc's original post on this I liked the idea he had and the way he did it so I went out and looked at the 30 fuse receptacle on my Greenie , even though it was still functioning  it was

Gentleman, I want to thank you all for all of your insight, education, and encouragement. Let's face it, what I'm posting isn't "rated" for anything.   *Entertainment Value Only*  

If the fuse looks ok check the connectors from the alternator to the reg/rec for overheating

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There's a 30 amp breaker in this series: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pbcircuitbrkr.php?clickkey=33524

 

Before now, I never knew I wanted a circuit breaker under my seat.

Do these auto reset?

 

Only once did this fuse "blow" on my Sport (because of a loose positive connection at the battery). Without charging, the bike eventually starting running rough, then the battery warning light came on (later V11 do not have these), then : roadside.

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There's a 30 amp breaker in this series: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pbcircuitbrkr.php?clickkey=33524

 

Before now, I never knew I wanted a circuit breaker under my seat.

Do these auto reset?

 

Only once did this fuse "blow" on my Sport (because of a loose positive connection at the battery). Without charging, the bike eventually starting running rough, then the battery warning light came on (later V11 do not have these), then : roadside.

 

 

 

No, they just pop. 

Excellent. It's on the way. Thanks, gentlemen!    :bier: 

 

Too cool: fixing  my Sport with airplane parts! :luigi:B)

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With all the connectors melting there must be some serious current spikes

When I get a chance I will take some measurements with my oscilloscope

 

You guys seem to have it covered with

Marty's pink auto fuse

Scuds 80 Amp red one

Chucks aircraft breaker

Did I miss any?

 

It's all about Current squared x resistance

I still have the OEM fuse holder in mine but I haven't checked it lately

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With all the connectors melting there must be some serious current spikes

When I get a chance I will take some measurements with my oscilloscope

 

You guys seem to have it covered with

Marty's pink auto fuse

Scuds 80 Amp red one

Chucks aircraft breaker

Did I miss any?

 

It's all about Current squared x resistance

I still have the OEM fuse holder in mine but I haven't checked it lately

No matter the circuit protection device, this seems to be all about the incoming connection. I figure the circuit breaker will reduce that connection from two to one, but may still suffer from this odd heating phenomenon.

 

I really (really) thought I had this fixed. :angry2:

 

 

 

Too cool: fixing  my Sport with airplane parts! :luigi:B)

 

Well, I fixed my Lario with an airplane engine..  :grin:

26389046084_4398ec572c_c.jpg2016-05-13_04-15-39 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

 

The elusive, but oft alluded to, Guzzi "drone" motor?  This is gonna take some 'splainin', Chuck! :huh:

 

(Catch up with this story here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19687&p=214698 )

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I have the 30 amp circuit breaker in hand. Once "popped" it is 3 inches / 7,5 cm long. Not sure how I'm going to mount it so it has clearance to "pop" and the terminals will be clear of any ground path.

 

The terminals are labelled "LINE" and "LOAD."    My understanding is that this sits between the regulator and the battery. Is the battery the "LOAD?" (It is definitely the regulator side that gets hot.)

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So, this little green/red wire carries 30 amps from the alternator all the way to the battery?  Seems dubiously undersized . . . perhaps it is 14 gauge just going by the notch on my strippers.

gallery_328_223_826083.jpeg

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At this point, I am not a fan of "spade" connectors at all. :bbblll:

 

It is worth servicing the bottom of the fuse box where four additional flat/ spade connectors are hidden below Fuses 1 and 2 (ECU and Fuel Injection/coils/fuel pump). The connector to my Fuel Pump/FI fuse was not tight at all.  These are the only two fuses that have these extra connections.

gallery_328_223_160743.jpegEDIT: These spade connectors gave me some fits attempting to restart. Two of them did not seat correctly after replacing the fuse block. 

Fuse One prevented the ECU and Fuel Injection relays from pulling in, then Fuse Two prevented the pump from running.  Make sure these connectors are *well connected* if you're having these issues, but the ignition switch and lights are all on.

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Having grown terribly tired of this connection melting and turning to charcoal, without ever opening the fuse, I am determined to get a solid connection: tinned 12 gauge wire soldered to the circuit breaker.

gallery_328_223_695655.jpeg

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For what it's worth.. the FAA doesn't allow soldered terminals. :) The solder wicks up the wire and makes it brittle. It'll eventually break right at the terminal with vibration. :oldgit:  Just the same.. I don't blame you for doing that. I'd be upset, too..

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