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docc

ANSWERED 30 amp fuse failure

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Love the idea of a circuit breaker instead of a fuse.

That would be a Chuck-idea . . . :thumbsup:

 

I would say it was a collaborative effort.. :)

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I think you deserve a trophy. I've got a crispy Maxi fuse holder you could display proudly!

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I had grand ambitions of rewiring mine with a Motogadget M-unit this winter. Starting to get cold feet though. This and your other mods are good solutions.

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I had grand ambitions of rewiring mine with a Motogadget M-unit this winter. Starting to get cold feet though. This and your other mods are good solutions.

I think you will have a hard time finding a better fuse block than the OEM one, granted the 30 Amp is a problem although I still have mine. 

I doubt the M-unit will handle the charging any better than the OEM

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The M-Unit doesn't handle charging. It handles power routing and switching, and consolidates the functions of the fuse block and all the relays into one very compact unit. It is solid state, with no fuses or moving switches. It has a lot of really really cool functionality built in (blinking the brake light, auto canceling turn signals, ts can be used as position lights, alarm system...) The only thing stopping me is the fact that our bikes are fuel injected which means loads of sensors etc, and that makes me nervous. I think I've found a solution, but it would still be a lot of work, and being newly married, I don't have the luxury of being able to sit in the garage all night, every night, anymore. I hear that changes over the years, haha :lol:

 

Edited to add: you still need to have a fuse for your R/R when using an M-Unit. You get to ditch all the other ones (and relays) though.

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The M-Unit doesn't handle charging. It handles power routing and switching, and consolidates the functions of the fuse block and all the relays into one very compact unit. It is solid state, with no fuses or moving switches. It has a lot of really really cool functionality built in (blinking the brake light, auto canceling turn signals, ts can be used as position lights, alarm system...) The only thing stopping me is the fact that our bikes are fuel injected which means loads of sensors etc, and that makes me nervous. I think I've found a solution, but it would still be a lot of work, and being newly married, I don't have the luxury of being able to sit in the garage all night, every night, anymore. I hear that changes over the years, haha :lol:

 

Edited to add: you still need to have a fuse for your R/R when using an M-Unit. You get to ditch all the other ones (and relays) though.

The purpose of the 30 amp Fuse 3 is to route the charging current to the battery, which is (I believe) what Kiwi_Roy means by "handling the charging."

 

So, the M-Unit doesn't house this circuit and you would need external 30 amp circuit protection for the charging ("Fuse 3") anyway?

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"So, the M-Unit doesn't house this circuit and you would need external 30 amp circuit protection for the charging ("Fuse 3") anyway?"

 

Correct. The R/R line to the battery does not pass through the M-Unit, and still requires a fuse.

 

m-unit.png

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...and being newly married, I don't have the luxury of being able to sit in the garage all night, every night, anymore. I hear that changes over the years, haha :lol:

 

 

Congratulations. My experience is that as soon as my wife got addicted to an evening TV show, I got to use that time productively (aka sit in the garage all night).  Wiring? I got nuthin'

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SP838

             Oh I see what you are thinking, a complete rewire

One thing to check out, what is the Start Out rated at, it needs to be good for about 50 Amps inrush, the solenoid pulls that for about 1/10th of a second.

I think you should have a dedicated 30 or 40 Amp fuse between regulator and the battery it just has to melt before the wire catches fire

A wire from the Aux output to power up the Ducati Energia regulator

The Vehicle main fuse would be a 30 or 40 Amps

Where would you power up the ECU from, you would still need the pump relay I think

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Doc,

        I don't see how external charging can effect the 30 Amp fuse, for one thing you are charging at quite a low rate say

Just curious what the verdict is on charging the odyssey battery while it is still in the bike?  Can I charge it while it is in the bike?  Do I need to remove the 30amp fuse?  My battery has been holding up well without any charging since I installed it but now that the bike has been sitting for a couple weeks the charge is down to 12.65 so I figure I should give it a full charge now.  Thanks for the help.

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Plexiform

"Just curious what the verdict is on charging the odyssey battery while it is still in the bike?  Can I charge it while it is in the bike?  Do I need to remove the 30amp fuse?  My battery has been holding up well without any charging since I installed it but now that the bike has been sitting for a couple weeks the charge is down to 12.65 so I figure I should give it a full charge now.  Thanks for the help."

 

 

 

It should be safe, with the key off the ECU is not powered up and the regulator will be isolated by the internal diodes and SCRs

As long as no magic smoke escapes go for it.

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Plexiform

"Just curious what the verdict is on charging the odyssey battery while it is still in the bike?  Can I charge it while it is in the bike?  Do I need to remove the 30amp fuse?  My battery has been holding up well without any charging since I installed it but now that the bike has been sitting for a couple weeks the charge is down to 12.65 so I figure I should give it a full charge now.  Thanks for the help."

 

 

 

It should be safe, with the key off the ECU is not powered up and the regulator will be isolated by the internal diodes and SCRs

As long as no magic smoke escapes go for it.

I would be nervous pulling that fuse in and out since the holders are already known to be weak. Easy for me with the switchable circuit breaker installed. :thumbsup:

 

Yet, aren't those the same diodes that can "go bad" in the SCR regulators?

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Still dreaming about an overkill  wiring (homemade) for the V11.   Wondering how few wires is it possible to get away with ? Keep reading,,, hopefully picking up some more, thanks guys.

Cheers tom

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Plexiform

"Just curious what the verdict is on charging the odyssey battery while it is still in the bike?  Can I charge it while it is in the bike?  Do I need to remove the 30amp fuse?  My battery has been holding up well without any charging since I installed it but now that the bike has been sitting for a couple weeks the charge is down to 12.65 so I figure I should give it a full charge now.  Thanks for the help."

 

 

 

It should be safe, with the key off the ECU is not powered up and the regulator will be isolated by the internal diodes and SCRs

As long as no magic smoke escapes go for it.

 

I would be nervous pulling that fuse in and out since the holders are already known to be weak. Easy for me with the switchable circuit breaker installed. :thumbsup:

 

Yet, aren't those the same diodes that can "go bad" in the SCR regulators?

I like the idea of a switch to connect and disconnect. Would love to see a picture of the circuit breaker you’ve installed.

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On 10/26/2018 at 8:15 AM, plexiform said:

 

On 10/25/2018 at 10:27 AM, docc said:

 

I would be nervous pulling that fuse in and out since the holders are already known to be weak. Easy for me with the switchable circuit breaker installed. :thumbsup:

 

Yet, aren't those the same diodes that can "go bad" in the SCR regulators?

I like the idea of a switch to connect and disconnect. Would love to see a picture of the circuit breaker you’ve installed.

 

Check out pages 4 and 5 in this thread showing how I installed this style of circuit breaker:

w23series.jpg

gallery_328_223_1207979.jpeg

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