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brlawson

Wiring harness improvement/replacement

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I've had a few issues lately related to the v11 electrical system. The 30 amp circuit melted and had to be totally bypassed. Had a NOS tach to fix the old one and can't get to work at all. The bike did not have horns and I can see why as the harness for them has been crispified.

 

So, recently I purchased a digital dash from the fine folks at Ghezzi-Brian which is a very nice package for the same price as a stand Koso setup only the provide a bracket and a harness to adapt it to the v11. Can be found here:

 

http://www.ghezzi-brian.com/en/tuning-moto/tuning-moto-guzzi/v11-1100-sport-daytona-centauro/digital-dashboard/

 

Koso even makes a nice signal generator that attaches to the end of the existing speedo cable.

 

gallery_10329_231_645943.jpg

 

 

So, as I am about to work out attaching the Ghezzi-Brian provided harness, I ask myself Do I really want to plug this nice unit into this crap harness that already has issues? Hell no.

 

Fortunately, when I purchased the bike a new harness came with it and while I am at this stage I figured it might be good to get some feed back on what the collective would or could do to make needed improvements before everything goes back in.

 

with all this business about hot relays and melting fuses surely someone has worked out a few bugs. I even  have a Motogadget M-unit that I thought about incorporating but I know Docc is a purist and wouldn't want him to have any additional children if I start hacking away.

 

Here is a pick of the harness if anyone can point out the week spots.

 

Thanks in advance.

gallery_10329_231_448879.jpg

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Haha - wait . . "docc is a purist ?"  :whistle:

 

I probably have one of the most modified (knackered?) wiring harnesses of any V11 extant.

 

"Don't try this at home, kids!" ;)

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Worse yet, my third Veglia just stubbed its odometer (at 29,400) [i blame Josh . . . ;) ]

 

So, I'll be diving into all that wiring next . . .

 

(BTW, I love my badass aircraft grade 30 amp circuit breaker).

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(BTW, I love my badass aircraft grade 30 amp circuit breaker).

 

That's a good start.

 

So, no mod to the harness? Mine has some serious stress.

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I looked at the Ghezzi-Brian website for more into.  What a worthless fountain of dis-information.  So, may i ask -

I assume the speed is digital in the LCD desplay?

Do they provide the speed sensor or is that purchased seperatly from somewhere else?

It mentions fuel level, I assume that is actually the fuel light?

It looks like they gave you a stock dash harness that you have to connect to the digital dash, yes?

 

Can't help on the harness Q, I'm a noob here.

My only $0.02 would be to solder all of the connections, no crimps.

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I'm a fan of using LEDs in the dash, I like being able to see them in bright sunlight.

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

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I'll have to try and sit down to make a comprehensive list of changes I've made. "Lots."

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My only $0.02 would be to solder all of the connections, no crimps.

My :2c: is crimp, no solder. For instance, the FAA doesn't allow soldered connections. Solder will wick up the wire, and it will break with vibration. The difference between cheesy stamped crimpers and *good* crimpers is night and day. Aircraft grade crimpers are mondo expensive. You can get *good* ratcheting automotive crimpers here:

http://www.vintageconnections.com/

Not expensive, and they will make reliable connections every time. :grin::oldgit:

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There are lots of soldered joints in the loom, everywhere you see two wires Tee together on the schematic chances are if you open the loom you will find wires twisted together and soldered very well and taped up.

I agree with Chuck though soldered on lugs the wires will break with any vibration or movement, for example the wires in the ignition switch, they need to be immobilized by attaching to the back cover.

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FAA also doesn't allow an unsupported crimp. A crimp will vibrate and break just like a solder joint if unsupported.  Like what most folks would do with butt crimps to splice 2 harnesses together. Truth is that a bike is unlikely to vibrate enough to bust either joint. 

 

I used to design oil patch equipment way back when.  Our boss made us buy these connectors that were used on the 747 because by golly they were the best and most expensive connectors available.  Of course he neglected to realize that on a 747, the connectors are only removed and re-connected a couple of times in the life of the aircraft.  In a swamp in Indonesia, being re-connected several times a day, they went to shit in no time.   Aircraft doesn't mean good !

 

I like solder joints with heat shrink over them because it is less weight and BULK than butt crimps, therefore easier to bundle up into a harness where everything is supported against vibration.

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BTW, I've restored some old Honda Goldwings and Vintage Connections is the shizz for working on old Japanese electricals.

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FAA also doesn't allow an unsupported crimp.

Yeah, they do.. :)

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I am using non-insulated butt connectors with heat shrink now. I see where this is the authorized/approved method of Ford Motor Co. I started a few months ago & I don't think I will do anything else now .

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