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Gearbox Drip (case crack)


LowRyter

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This is where my gearbox cracked and the case was replaced under warranty. I *theorized* the spine frame mount is vulnerable there because of the extreme distance between only frame mounting points at the back of the gearbox and the timing chest.

 

 

 

I added (back) the frame to bell housing mounting plate (used on pre-V11 spine frames) to give the spine a third (middle) mounting point and *help* relieve the stress on that rear-most mounting boss.

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1797&p=17967

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1797&p=28651

where can I get this mounting plate?

 

just getting deeper and deeper now.  But I am out of options, if my gearbox can't be fixed, the bike is toast.

 

Ok ok, you drive a hard bargain. I'll give you a hunnerd bones for it.  :huh2:

Shirley.. there is a transmission in a boneyard somewhere.. and.. I'm betting even I could weld it. Ok ok.. 200 dollars.. :whistle:

 

You keep calling the drummer "Shirley," and the bassplayer starts getting all pissy . . .  B)

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I'm having a look at my spare tranny now. It had redline heavy in it, but appears to have been drained. Flushed it with diesel just to be sure... I'm a little gun-shy after looking in the last transmission...

 

If I put that one in and it shifts better than the one that's in my Red LeMans now, that means the-take-out needs rebuilding and I'd be willing to take it apart and sell you just the black case, which you can paint.

 

I remember there was a silver tranny on ebay a while back. Have you checked Teo Lamers?

 

This is fixable...

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That's good news. And did he really remove the transmission just by pivoting the whole rear-end back on the shock mount? That looks like wizardry to me. Or maybe a multi-person job?

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went to the shop.  


 


Don has got the bike in pieces.   He's pressing on to fix it.  The transmission is apart and he'll bake all the fluid out of the offending piece and weld it.  I also gave him the photo Docc posted of the bracket and gave him this website to review it.  He thought he could fab that up too.


 


He'd like to get the bike completed by the end of the week.  I am not sure if he expects to fix the plastic by then or not.  He didn't express a big concern about it.  Of course it's my $$.


 


here's the bike


 


D63411BCCFEE424F871F724CFB46A0BC.jpg


 


and here's the ground out crack


 


189188545ED9409DBCE271FB00C4051A.jpg


 


If he gets it done this week, he might finish it before I get my clutch cable replaced on the EV.  The good news is the weather is lousy and I won't be riding anyway.


 


My hope is to have the bike ready for the Ozark RAT Raid in late April.  I might make it to Dusty's Rally in Cedar Vale Ks the weekend after.  


 


Nothing would be better than having both bikes on the road next weekend.


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Yeah - I saw the straps. But I thought the wheel, final drive and swingarm would have to be disassembled and removed. It looks like he left that whole assembly connected to shock. And it looks like he managed to get the transmission out without "crabbing the frame." 

 

Having been in there a few times recently, and thinking about going back in again... I'm both amazed and curious.

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the shock is disconnected from the frame but I believe the swingarm is still connected.  

 

Yeah - I saw the straps. But I thought the wheel, final drive and swingarm would have to be disassembled and removed. It looks like he left that whole assembly connected to shock. And it looks like he managed to get the transmission out without "crabbing the frame." 

 

Having been in there a few times recently, and thinking about going back in again... I'm both amazed and curious.

 
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I'm sure anybody who can finagle a transmission out like that can get it back together. So pardon me while I take a little detour on your thread and consider whether this an easier way to get the tranny out (since I may be doing it again soon myself).

 

I thought crabbing the frame involved lifting the frame - tilting it forward over the engine by removing the rear-most upper subframe bolt. That would be difficult with a floppy rear wheel and swingarm still attached.

 

So it looks to me like the engine and tranny were lowered as a unit - after detaching the lower engine mount bolts (to the timing chest) and all the transmission mount bolts. Then it could be lowered, just a couple inches, enough to pull the transmission off the engine. Does that sound right?

 

I also note that the throttle bodies are removed - but there must be another reason for that.

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