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Reaction Rod end failure


stewgnu

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Here's a couple of pics of the (rearward) rod end that went as i was pulling away the other day.

It was on the rossopuro torque arm i have fitted.

Admittedly I've put many miles on the bike with this set-up, only changing the joints when the play became noticeable.

I'm assuming it went due to a shock from a pot-hole impact or something. As it is it's only cost me a propshaft (twisted) and replacement joints i'm fairly sanguine- a fail at speed may have been a Bad Day.

I'm also assuming that the lube nip, as a weak point, is dangerously unnecessary?

 

IMG_0031.jpg

IMG_0032.jpg

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Oooh, thats nasty. Glad you got away with that, Relatively. Yes I'd go with the non lubed sealed units. I'll check my Rossopuro unit rod ends.How many miles on the torque arm?

 

Ciao

 

Edit....my Rossopuro arm has sealed rod ends, ie... no lube points. and yes I've seen rod ends fail like this before through the lube point.

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Yeah isn't it? I'd say i've had the rossopuro on for around four thousand miles, and these were the second set of joints i fitted. I don't even have an adaptor to fit these nips so kinda redundant i suppose.

I'm not wise in the way of these things but thought, due to the poss severity, it best to 'create awareness' as they say. When i looked at the amount of metal either side of the lube point i did think it seemed kinda paltry for this particular usage.... but like i say, my knowledge of metal strengths/fatigues is (was?) zero.

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I'm thinking your "knowledge of metal strengths/fatigues" has just increased exponentially! :o

 

Obviously, those ends are not at all up to the task! :o :o

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This is useful information. I honestly would've never thought there would be that much stress on that joint. Sorry about your situation...

Me, either. Maybe that Delrin or Ceram P bushing idea I was thinking about isn't so bad after all.  :huh2:

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Yeah isn't it? I'd say i've had the rossopuro on for around four thousand miles, and these were the second set of joints i fitted. I don't even have an adaptor to fit these nips so kinda redundant i suppose.

I'm not wise in the way of these things but thought, due to the poss severity, it best to 'create awareness' as they say. When i looked at the amount of metal either side of the lube point i did think it seemed kinda paltry for this particular usage.... but like i say, my knowledge of metal strengths/fatigues is (was?) zero.

Hmmm, 4000 miles isnt much. I'll be keeping a close eye on mine for sure.

 

Ciao

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I remember having seen a case with an after market reaction rod also on a German forum.  On the other hand, on Daytona and early Sport1100 (pre injection models) a similar solution was in use.

RpRod.jpg

Day_Sport.jpg

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Well I now have some replacements. Mcgill motorsports sell 'ultra high mega superb performance' rod ends, so i got some and they look great- fat, thick, quality metal b*stards you could concuss a honey badger with.

Service was top notch too- order processed and sent out the same day, received the following morning!

http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/male-rod-ends-metric-xm-racing-series-chromoly-kevlar-ultra-high-performance/

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"Racing" . . . "Kevlar" . . . "Teflon" . . . ."Chromoly" . . . "ulrta high perf" . . .

 

Man, that's all the food groups right there! :food:

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I believe that original little flexible rubber joint is here for good reason -safety- :oldgit:

 

-KG- 

Yeah, to make it cheaper and easier to build.

My Daytona has the same basic rear setup, in fact the V11 setup is an evolution of what the Daytona had. The Daytona has a rod with two heim joints, one on each end. But the Daytona had a list price way higher than the V11, and they did not build very many of them. They made a number of changes from the Daytona to the Sport, and then to the V11, many of them were simply changes that made the bike cheaper and / or easier to build.

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It's hard to fathom that casting a dedicated piece, applying a finish, and pressing bushings into each end would be any cheaper than a length of round stock with two Heim joints installed?  :huh2:

 

I had always had the impression it was done as a matter of *style* . . .

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The heim joints are many times the cost of the rubber bushing. A quality heim joint might be near 10$ while that bushing is maybe a dollar or two. While the actual price difference is likely only a few dollars if you multiply that by the number of V11s they made it adds up. Also, assembly is easier. The bushings are simply pressed in to the simply cast arm, no worry about setting the length. The heim joints are threaded in (first you need threaded holes to thread them into) and you have to set them to the correct length.

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