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Brake/Clutch Bleeding


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So, the last times I've bled brakes/clutch lines, it was not a speedy and very successful affair. I've got one of those $29.99 pumps from my local "Auto-Kragen-Pep-Zone" and that certainly helped, but it still wasn't ideal.

 

Does anyone have any tips and/or recommendations on tools and method for making bleeding the brakes/clutch a quick, painless, and effective experience?

 

I don't want to spend big money on some "super bleeder" but then again wouldn't mind investing a reasonable amount on something that works :huh2:

 

Thanks in advance :D

 

al

 

 

P.S.

 

And on that note, recommended fluid?

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http://www.speedbleeder.com makes bleed screws with little check valves in them. I believe there was a discussion a couple months back in wildguzzi. Our bikes take the M6 size. I believe my California takes the M10 size. I'm getting ready to buy 4 for the LeMans and 3 for the Cali. I doubt I'll install them before March though. At $7.00 apiece I figure I can't go wrong.

 

I'm not looking forward to dealing with the clutch bleeder. I suppose you removed the tire to gain access?

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My experience (with Japanese bikes) is that all you need is a glass bottle (milk/wine - mainly for weight / stability / corrosion resistance), a length of clear tubing, a GOOD spanner to fit the bleed nipple, and the correct fluid.

 

 

 

After that it's just a matter of practise. ;)

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Guest vkerrigan

Al,

 

A few months back when I did the fork spring work I also bled the brakes and clutch and used a German product called ATE Racing Brake fluid. Its a high performance DOT 4 but its claim to fame is that it comes in two colors....gold or blue. When bleeding a system that has the standard gold color fluid, use the blue color and you'll be able to clearly see when the new fluid has gone through the system. I bought it from a Racing Supply house here in Va. (OG racing) but I'm sure they would have it there in the Bay Area as well. It runs about $10.00 for one container which will do front & rear brakes plus clutch line............vk

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I concur with R-B. I just use an old spagetti sauce jar, about 3 feet of 1/4 inch id clear hose, an 8mm spanner and some DOT 4. Crude but effective.

 

Gio

 

PS - A third arm is usefull...

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The clear nylon vent tubes that come with new batteries work great. They're a little short at times such that the jar needs to sit on a paint can or case of oil to get it up off the ground.

 

I also learned to use a clip or clothes pin to secure the tube to the jar to keep it from flipping loose and spitting adrop of brake fluid on something susceptible.

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http://www.speedbleeder.com makes bleed screws with little check valves in them. I believe there was a discussion a couple months back in wildguzzi. Our bikes take the M6 size. I believe my California takes the M10 size. I'm getting ready to buy 4 for the LeMans and 3 for the Cali. I doubt I'll install them before March though. At $7.00 apiece I figure I can't go wrong.

 

I'm not looking forward to dealing with the clutch bleeder. I suppose you removed the tire to gain access?

 

 

Just for clarification, the V11 takes the M6 size "all around" (brakes and clutch slave?)

 

thx =)

al

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Oops! My eyes may be deceiving me but the clutch bleeder looks like it might be an M8. Hard to tell by just looking in the cramped quarters. I assumed the rocket scientists in Mandello would standardize. Give the folks a call. They might know. It's an 800 number.

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  • 2 weeks later...

From Terry's contacting the folks at Speedbleeder:

 

 

 

From: Michael Sulwer

To: Terry Whitaker

Subject: RE: 2002 Moto Guzzi V11 LeMans

 

 

 

 

The size(s) that you need for your application is as follows:

 

Front....SB6100

Rear.....SB6100

Clutch...SB1010S

 

When you order Speed Bleeder consider ordering the "Bleeder / Bag Combo".  It will make bleeding your brakes even easier.  It consists of a 30 inch length of silicone tubing that is specifically sized to the Speed Bleeders and a bleeder bag that looks like an IV bag that is used in hospitals.  Attach one end of the hose to the Speed Bleeder nipple and the other end to the bleeder bag. Open the Speed Bleeder 1/4 turn and proceed to bleed your caliper or wheel cylinder.  The fluid will be contained in the bleeder bag and eliminates any unnecessary mess.

 

Speed Bleeder can be ordered at www.speedbleeder.com/order.htm

 

Thanks

 

 

 

Thanks Terry, I've got mine on order, and I'm sure others will find this info very useful :thumbsup:

 

al

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  • 4 months later...
Guest bmwdave

After three reshipments, I finally got the proper size Speedbleeders for my 2002 LeMans. What fits MY bike are:

 

Clutch slave cylinder SB1010S 10m x 1.0 (dia x threads)

Rear brake caliper SB1010S 10m x 1.0

Front brake calipers SB8125L 8m x 1.25

 

The Speedbleeder folks are great to work with and were very cooperative in getting the correct sizes to me.

 

 

BMWDAVE

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I have three SB6100 bleeders that could use a good home. Cheap. I heard those work on some Beemers.

 

Funny, I thought for sure I put a notice here about the right sizes for our bikes. Must have been on the other forum.

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I have three SB6100 bleeders that could use a good home. Cheap. I heard those work on some Beemers.

 

Funny, I thought for sure I put a notice here about the right sizes for our bikes. Must have been on the other forum.

 

 

You and I did ^_^ , in the SpeedBleeder thread in "Technical Topics" ... that for the life of me I can't find right now :huh2:

 

al

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Guest tenni015

:D I've just done this for my 12,000 mile service on the Tenni, when the brake fluid should be changed.

 

:angry: Buy a piece of rubber hose, just small enough to press over the bleed nipple. It should be about a foot long, (yes I still work in imperial units, sometimes) and have a screw or plug to block the loose end. About an inch from the plug, make a slit in the rubber, right through one side,lengthways along the hose, about 1/4 inch long.

:wacko: Before you apply the hose, loosen the bleed nipple and tighten it back by hand. It doesn't matter if a little fluid escapes, provided your reservoir is not too low. If it is, top it up.

:thumbsup: Push the drain tube you have made onto the nipple ( can I say that ?), then unscrew the nipple by hand, but don't undo it that much that fluid leaks. Put the plugged end of the hose into a suitable receptacle.

:bbblll: Clean the reservoir thouroughly. Undo the reservoir screws, and lift off the cap complete with it's rubber seal. The seal should be OK if you haven't noticed your brakes failing recently. Have a can of the correct (DOT4 where I am) grade of brake fluid (preferably of a different colour to your existing brake fluid) ready and top up the reservoir if it is low.

:helmet: Squeeze the front brake and watch (You may need a long neck for this) the end of the hose. If it passes fluid, let the brake lever go, and the level in the reservoir should get lower. If the hose does not excude fluid, then the slit in the rubber hose should be made longer.(The flex in the hose will close the slit when the brake master cylinder breathes back.) Squeeze and repeat until the colour of the spent fluid changes, topping up the reservoir as necessary.

:bike: That line is now bled.Tighten the nipple by hand, pull off the hose, tighten up with a ring spanner, replace the rubber nipple cover, top up the reservoir, and go to the next brake caliper. Repeat for all brakes calipers.

:luigi: Refit the reservoir cap. You won't get your hands dirty and next time you do it, it will take 30 minutes to do all 3 calipers. I bought one of these from a motor accessory shop for 99p.

 

:homer: Why don't you clean your calipers while you're at it ?

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