Kiwi_Roy Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 Yes they will just, take the idiot bulb out or fix it. I think that's the same flasher I have on my Eldorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 Yes they will just take the idiot bulb out or fix it. I think that's the same flasher I have on my Eldorado Sent from my shoe phone! Ok, thanks for the heads-up. Certainly, not a plug&play thing, then. I appreciate your letting me know what to expect. I've put off the LED dash lights for a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 . . . yep, installing the front and rear LED turn indicators, one side only, I get turn signals on that side and 4-way flashers switching to the other side. Same with the LED flasher. So, I installed only the rear (only) LED indicators and get proper turn signals! That's how I'm going to roll, for now, while I try to sort the regulator and charging circuit. I'll obtain the correct dash indicator LED and put that on my list of "more things to do." Thanks, Kiwi_Roy! I would have been so frustrated and ticked off if this were an unexpected outcome! Once again, you guys totally rock! (PS- This new LED flasher is quite large. I have a modified location and modified seat pan, but it may not fit in just any V11.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 This LED headlamp went flinky (intermittent) today. My separately wired/ separate relay lo-beam came through for me. Found a loose relay connection that is my doing. Yet, I also found the LED unit loosening in its H4 mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 The heat from the LED unit's fan is certainly removing more and more of the silver finish from the >back (This LED unit has gone 3,200 miles/ ~5.200 km, pretty much always on Hi-beam) I also found the H4 mount loose on the LED unit allowing vibration and rotation. Epoxied the cylindrical interface between the unit and the H4 adapter (JBWeld epoxy). The unit appears made to use adapters for different applications. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swooshdave Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 Normally I wouldn't consider venting the headlight but in your case... Why on high so much? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 Normally I wouldn't consider venting the headlight but in your case... Why on high so much? Conspicuity in traffic: "Be seen!" Hardly any night riding. I got home late one night and still not sure what to think of 5000 Kelvin lighting to see the road ahead . . . I am inclined to say I cannot see the road as well even with the increased "lumens." There is the matter of "lux" . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 If this looses connectivity again, I'll build a new harness for the relays. I am totally not content with those connections. Otherwise, anyone running this LED unit should (IMO) epoxy the housing to the H4 adapter upon installation. It cannot be good to have it buzzing around getting looser and looser. The abrasion spread a fine, polymer powder throughout. At some point, I'll need to separate the lens from the reflector and clean it. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-H4-CREE-LED-Motorcycle-Headlight-Bulb-4000LM-40W-Hi-Lo-20W-Low-Beam-Conversion-Kit/32619929937.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.27.PpxLMx&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_5010019_10136_10137_10157_10060_10138_10155_10062_10156_437_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_303_100031_10099_10103_10102_10096_10147_10052_10053_10107_10050_10142_10051_10084_10083_5190020_10080_10082_10081_10178_10110_519_10111_10112_10113_10114_10183_10182_10185_10078_10079_10073_10123_142-10050,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=e6d1f2b0-23fa-46f2-b8d1-f0ac63ba47f5&algo_expid=dca429f6-9754-4b9f-aaac-ef16f611ca97-3&algo_pvid=dca429f6-9754-4b9f-aaac-ef16f611ca97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pressureangle Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Do your homework;http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomchri Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Hi Seems to me Docc,, your not to impressed, you didnt try it in the rain ? My experience was worse in the wet. Better led bulbs beeing produced all the time ? Be great to find one that realy works, m better. Gluing things together, hm. And is there realy a way to clean the reflector without making thiny marks ? Anbody tried a sealed 7" H4 led headlight from Grote ? Doesnt look to modern. Someday we will see better, saying from an 1953m. Cheers tom 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Do your homework; http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html While the link is largely about HID conversions, the author makes valid reference to the shortcomings of LED conversions (from halogen/H4). luhbo said the same thing about LED module compatibility issues with the V11 reflector (I paraphrase). I am finding that this attempt to fit an LED module to the V11 headlamp is approaching the "failed attempt" stage . . . 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pressureangle Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 I installed a 100/55 H4 in the LM 1000, but upgraded the socket, wiring, added relays for H&L beams, and the lens is actually glass. It's positively magnificent.I'm not so happy with the '97 Sport, the lens is plastic, getting hazy, and I'm not confident a 100w high beam won't injure it. I'll be looking into changing the lamp assembly, possibly to the same one as the '85 LM. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 I installed a 100/55 H4 in the LM 1000, but upgraded the socket, wiring, added relays for H&L beams, and the lens is actually glass. It's positively magnificent. I'm not so happy with the '97 Sport, the lens is plastic, getting hazy, and I'm not confident a 100w high beam won't injure it. I'll be looking into changing the lamp assembly, possibly to the same one as the '85 LM. I've used high wattage H4 in the past, but found them unreliable (burned out unpredictably and too soon) and damaging (too much heat). How have you "upgraded the socket?" And what 100/55 H4 are you using? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 I ran a 100 wt H4 for many years on my Bandit, It got so hot that it put a brown spot in the lens. I was afraid to put 100 watt on my Guzzis, worried about stress on the alternator, wiring and connectors. Now I am running cool running, low draw LEDs on all of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pressureangle Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 Dan Stern (linked above) supplied the bulb and ceramic lamp plug, which will not melt or distort from the additional heat. FWIW I only use the high beam at night, with no oncoming traffic so use is limited to cooler running. Also, adding relays increases voltage which reduces current on the plug. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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