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docc

H4 LED + other LED lighting

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2 lamps for around $30

 

Patience, I'll get it right in a minute, for some reason copy/paste doesn't work on this computer

Damm typo there somewhere

 

 

Just google

ZG-M11M-H4

Yellow bulb with the fan inside the reflector

I put one in my Griso, had to leave out the fancy red trim otherwise a straight swap.

 

I'm not sure if I mentioned a side benefit of LEDs

Because they operate on just 9 Volts thereabouts all the way up to 30 or more they compensate for that weak old wiring and give full brightness for example if you only get 75% (9 Volts) to the LED it will still operate at 100% brightness.

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Hi Marty, is there a failsafe circuit to prevent a total meltdown if the fan should stop working?

No, but it won't meltdown, it just stops lighting anymore. If the fan stops, then the LED will fail as soon as the heatsink gets too hot, which may be 10 minutes, or never.

Hi-power LEDs have a limited life, anywhere between 5,000 hours and 50,000 hours, depending mostly on the temperature of the silicon chip. As they age, they gradually get dimmer (after about 30,000 hours). Cooler is better, hence the fan.

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yep.  Docc did the heavy lifting here.  The background.  I purchased an LED bulb from Cycle Gear.  It didn't fit the Guzzi headlight buckets and cost me $50.  I installed it in my Bandit.   I didn't want to purchase another one that didn't fit, nor did I want to change out the entire lens and reflector so I could maintain the stock look.  I wanted something brighter but I didn't want to screw up the electrical system.  BTW- I had 100 wt bulb in the Bandit and it worked fine but the heat was browning out the lens.

 

So this one fills the bill.  Docc posted it earlier in this thread but I'd forgotten it and pestered him with several PMs.

 

Now that I know that it really fits, I ordered another bulb for the EV.  The cost is about $25/ea.  

 

 

and another update.  I just compared the LED in Bandit to the Sport.  Both put out about the same amount of light which is about as bright as the 100 wt bulb I had in the Bandit.  The bulb referenced here seems seems to buzz a little louder than the one in the Bandit. 

 

And NO!  I won't provide any pictures or sound recordings.   :bbblll:

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Hi Marty, is there a failsafe circuit to prevent a total meltdown if the fan should stop working?

No, but it won't meltdown, it just stops lighting anymore. If the fan stops, then the LED will fail as soon as the heatsink gets too hot, which may be 10 minutes, or never.

Hi-power LEDs have a limited life, anywhere between 5,000 hours and 50,000 hours, depending mostly on the temperature of the silicon chip. As they age, they gradually get dimmer (after about 30,000 hours). Cooler is better, hence the fan.

 

I know I asked this before, but would it be beneficial to introduce some louvers to the back of the bucket? The back of the neat sink is actually the intake for the fan which blows forward over the back of the reflector.  It does not cool the LEDs, only the heat sink.

 

(I always have wanted something with a cool set of louvers . . .)

69ee69d130113b47ab190dd0b3176ba7--sweet-

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Docc.. air that gets in gotta gets out. :) You need 20% more outlet area than inlet area. Roughly.

36539947116_4b55863b02_c.jpg044 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

I can't imagine some louvers on the bucket hurting anything.. except for rain getting in when you are at the bar drying out. :huh2:

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Given the amount of electrical connections in the headlight bucket I'd strive to keep it as dry as possible. As long as there is enough air flow over the bucket there's enough volume to cool it. Sure you could overkill it (isn't that the mantra of this forum?) but if you do promise to post pictures.

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Great info here everyone. Wish I would've read this before replacing my V11's old H4 with a similar unit. Will probably upgrade to one of these anyway!

 

 

Docc.. air that gets in gotta gets out. :) You need 20% more outlet area than inlet area. Roughly.

36539947116_4b55863b02_c.jpg044 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

 

I just got my PPL about a month ago. That thing looks fun!  :whistle:

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Not sure why you don't just replace the headlight with a sealed LED unit......  Just sayin.... they work.  Its cheap.  I like it.

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Given the amount of electrical connections in the headlight bucket I'd strive to keep it as dry as possible. As long as there is enough air flow over the bucket there's enough volume to cool it. Sure you could overkill it (isn't that the mantra of this forum?) but if you do promise to post pictures.

Yeah, so, I opted to keep the bucket sealed from moisture instead of introducing ventilation.

 

If the LED unit burns out, they're cheap to replace. If it damages the reflector, I'll be pissed and feel stupid. :angry2::homer:

 

Maybe a stovepipe/ chimney/ top vent  at the top of the bucket (just forward of my Speedhut GPS antenna)?

 

Does it really matter to ventilate the bucket?

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Sorry for the slow reply, I was travelling back to the UK. The cyclops site is the right one and yes it fits fine in the metal headlight shell on my bike. Interestingly the driver unit on mine and the wiring arrangement looks very similar to lowryters unit, but the fan looks different.

 

BTW I also got an LED sidelight bulb to match, because the yellowy filament bulb on the sidelight looked wrong alongside the LED main bulb. Ebay is your friend for those

By "sidelight bulb", these are the "turn signals" / *winkers* ?

 

Do you have a link for those LED replacements?

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I got them from eBay.com, just search for:

 

20X BA9S 3886X 1815 Xenon White LED Instrument Gauge Dash Light Bulbs For chevry

 

I don’t know if they fit the indicators, I just used one for the parking light in the headlight.

 

Cheers

 

Ian

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I ordered the indicator lights and an LED flasher from the link Kiwi_Roy posted. So excited to have brighter turn signals along with the much improved tail/brake LED that swooshdave posted and this *pretty darn good* LED headlight.

 

I hadn't considered changing the "City Light" (low wattage bulb in the headlamp). I kinda like seeing its warm halogen glow in there with the whiter LED . . .

 

This is the flasher I ordered (hope it works/fits/ is right):
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/fl2-red-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/779/833/

fl2-red-led-bulb-electronic-flasher.jpg

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One thing with LED bulbs in your flashers, if you have just a single idiot light in the dash you  might will get crosstalk from one side to the other. The original lamps drew so much current the idiot light had no effect but LEDs draw so little the small bulb will cause the other side to light up. Very easy fixed with a couple of small diodes.

 

                                   diodes

LH Flashers --------------->|------|        lamp

                                                 |--------(X)----> chassis

RH Flashers --------------->|------|

 

Now the signal can only get half way before it's blocked by the diode.

 

If you want to replace the lamps behind the idiot lights the part No to use is

194-A-90, 194-B-90, 194-R-90, 194-G-90  Letter designates the colour which has to match the bezzel

Glue the lamps into the surround

Throw away those old rubber lamp-holders, they can cause a short and solder the wires right to the lamp,

The lamp sockets Superbright sell don't work well in the confined space.

Keep one of the original lamps to solder in parallel with the low fuel light

 

 

PM me if you have a question

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Nuts. So these LED turn indicators aren't going to work, even with the special flasher?

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