OldButNotDead Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 I stripped out one of the bolt holes on my rear caliper and dread swapping in a new one. Let’s just say I’ve had Fear and Trembling and Sickness unto Death trying to bleed air out of brake lines in the past. I was wondering about trying to move the caliper slightly above the rear reservoir to do the swap – to minimize getting air in the system. This seems possible by snaking the caliper and line under the swingarm and up the other side of the bike. Seems like I’d just need to remove the RH muffler to do that. Does this seem reasonable / helpful? Maybe someone has tried this for routine cleaning/bleeding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 If you have the caliper off, you can unhook the brake line from the swingarm. The line is quite long and you can move it wherever you want - no need to remove muffler or anything else. Also try adding a speed-bleeder instead of the standard bleeder, you can flush a lot of fluid quickly with one of those. I have a spare rear caliper if you are interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Scud, didn't you figure out a better way to mount the caliper awhile back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 No - I just retrofitted the 2003 safety pin on a 2002. Bad things happen if the bolt backs out of the caliper carrier. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldButNotDead Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 Thanks for the offer! I sourced a new one from MG Cycle a couple months back, but have been procrastinating. Hopefully this will be easier than I'm anticipating; haven't done much wrenching the past few years. I have a speed-bleeder in the old caliper that I'll swap over, and a Mityvac, so this ought not to be too hard. If you have the caliper off, you can unhook the brake line from the swingarm. The line is quite long and you can move it wherever you want - no need to remove muffler or anything else. Also try adding a speed-bleeder instead of the standard bleeder, you can flush a lot of fluid quickly with one of those. I have a spare rear caliper if you are interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 I stripped out one of the bolt holes on my rear caliper and dread swapping in a new one. Let’s just say I’ve had Fear and Trembling and Sickness unto Death trying to bleed air out of brake lines in the past. I was wondering about trying to move the caliper slightly above the rear reservoir to do the swap – to minimize getting air in the system. This seems possible by snaking the caliper and line under the swingarm and up the other side of the bike. Seems like I’d just need to remove the RH muffler to do that. Does this seem reasonable / helpful? Maybe someone has tried this for routine cleaning/bleeding? Dont be a girls blouse, and get on with it. Ciao 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldButNotDead Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 I stripped out one of the bolt holes on my rear caliper and dread swapping in a new one. Let’s just say I’ve had Fear and Trembling and Sickness unto Death trying to bleed air out of brake lines in the past. I was wondering about trying to move the caliper slightly above the rear reservoir to do the swap – to minimize getting air in the system. This seems possible by snaking the caliper and line under the swingarm and up the other side of the bike. Seems like I’d just need to remove the RH muffler to do that. Does this seem reasonable / helpful? Maybe someone has tried this for routine cleaning/bleeding? Dont be a girls blouse, and get on with it. Ciao A man’s got to know his limitations. So, I decided to be a big girl’s blouse. And also got on with it. Given the fear and trembling, I just didn’t see this as an “Either/Or” situation. I think it helped to raise the caliper up, as did a speed bleeder + pumping the pedal. Hand vacuum pump – not so much. Grateful for all the input – this board is the main reason my bike is still on the road.. Cheers! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 this board is the main reason my bike is still on the road.. Cheers! Absolutely. This board rocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68C Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Not sure if this should be in this thread, some of the above posts refer to 'speed-bleed' brake bleed nipples. If they are the type with a sprung loaded valve inside them perhaps you should reconsider using them. This evening I spent several hours overhauling a set of Brembo calipers, two of the speed bleeders had been sheared off. No problem I thought just drill them through and use a left hand easy-out to extract them. Of course I then found the central sprung loaded valve is made of a very hard steel, it was impossible to drill them centrally. The only way I can to see to get them out is spark erosion, no longer available to me since retiring! I think the main problem is the side walls of the nipples are thinner to allow room for the central piston making it easier to shear them off if stuck. So, I suggest you remove the speed-bleeders while you can before they seize up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbolesaz Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 The speed bleeders I bought had like a pipe thread compound on the threads. Never had an issue with loosening them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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