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OldButNotDead

ANSWERED Rear Caliper Replacement

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I stripped out one of the bolt holes on my rear caliper and dread swapping in a new one.  Let’s just say I’ve had Fear and Trembling and Sickness unto Death trying to bleed air out of brake lines in the past.

 

I was wondering about trying to move the caliper slightly above the rear reservoir to do the swap – to minimize getting air in the system.  This seems possible by snaking the caliper and line under the swingarm and up the other side of the bike.  Seems like I’d just need to remove the RH muffler to do that.

 

Does this seem reasonable / helpful?  Maybe someone has tried this for routine cleaning/bleeding?

 

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If you have the caliper off, you can unhook the brake line from the swingarm. The line is quite long and you can move it wherever you want - no need to remove muffler or anything else. Also try adding a speed-bleeder instead of the standard bleeder, you can flush a lot of fluid quickly with one of those. I have a spare rear caliper if you are interested.

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Scud, didn't you figure out a better way to mount the caliper awhile back?

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No - I just retrofitted the 2003 safety pin on a 2002. Bad things happen if the bolt backs out of the caliper carrier.

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Thanks for the offer!  I sourced a new one from MG Cycle a couple months back, but have been procrastinating.  Hopefully this will be easier than I'm anticipating; haven't done much wrenching the past few years.   I have a speed-bleeder in the old caliper that I'll swap over, and a Mityvac, so this ought not to be too hard.  

 

 

If you have the caliper off, you can unhook the brake line from the swingarm. The line is quite long and you can move it wherever you want - no need to remove muffler or anything else. Also try adding a speed-bleeder instead of the standard bleeder, you can flush a lot of fluid quickly with one of those. I have a spare rear caliper if you are interested.

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I stripped out one of the bolt holes on my rear caliper and dread swapping in a new one.  Let’s just say I’ve had Fear and Trembling and Sickness unto Death trying to bleed air out of brake lines in the past.
 
I was wondering about trying to move the caliper slightly above the rear reservoir to do the swap – to minimize getting air in the system.  This seems possible by snaking the caliper and line under the swingarm and up the other side of the bike.  Seems like I’d just need to remove the RH muffler to do that.
 
Does this seem reasonable / helpful?  Maybe someone has tried this for routine cleaning/bleeding?

 

Dont be a girls blouse, and get on with it.

 

Ciao

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I stripped out one of the bolt holes on my rear caliper and dread swapping in a new one.  Let’s just say I’ve had Fear and Trembling and Sickness unto Death trying to bleed air out of brake lines in the past.
 
I was wondering about trying to move the caliper slightly above the rear reservoir to do the swap – to minimize getting air in the system.  This seems possible by snaking the caliper and line under the swingarm and up the other side of the bike.  Seems like I’d just need to remove the RH muffler to do that.
 
Does this seem reasonable / helpful?  Maybe someone has tried this for routine cleaning/bleeding?

 

Dont be a girls blouse, and get on with it.

 

Ciao

 

A man’s got to know his limitations.  So, I decided to be a big girl’s blouse.
And also got on with it.  Given the fear and trembling, I just didn’t see this as an “Either/Or” situation.
 
I think it helped to raise the caliper up, as did a speed bleeder + pumping the pedal.  Hand vacuum pump – not so much.
Grateful for all the input – this board is the main reason my bike is still on the road.. Cheers!
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 this board is the main reason my bike is still on the road.. Cheers!

 

Absolutely. This board rocks.  :oldgit:

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Not sure if this should be in this thread, some of the above posts refer to 'speed-bleed' brake bleed nipples.

 

If they are the type with a sprung loaded valve inside them perhaps you should reconsider using them. This evening I spent several hours overhauling a set of Brembo calipers, two of the speed bleeders had been sheared off. No problem I thought just drill them through and use a left hand easy-out to extract them. Of course I then found the central sprung loaded valve is made of a very hard steel, it was impossible to drill them centrally. The only way I can to see to get them out is spark erosion, no longer available to me since retiring!

 

I think the main problem is the side walls of the nipples are thinner to allow room for the central piston making it easier to shear them off if stuck.

 

So, I suggest you remove the speed-bleeders while you can before they seize up.

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The speed bleeders I bought had like a pipe thread compound on the threads.  Never had an issue with loosening them.

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