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Install Deformed Fuel Tank


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Over the past 10 years I have personally done 4-5  tanks for myself and a 2-3  for friends , Aprilia,Ducati,and Moto guzzi V-ll "Plastic" tanks( they are actually a Nylon formula if you read in depth

update. Had my tank off, totally empty, for 4 weeks. I put it on a home made rack to simulate a frame mount while it rested and I did my tank-off stuff. It didn't tighten up on the rack to my surprise

it was in this topic.  Just found it.  

The real disgrace is the continued use of Acerbis nylon for fuel tanks. The USA must be the largest consumer of all the marques and models that use them, and they can't or won't figure out a way to accommodate alcohol. And why there's still alcohol in our gas this day and age is just silly.

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Mine is expanded somewhat too but I can still get the bolt in. The tank was coated inside when I got the bike so fingers crossed it doesn't get any worse. Seems like coating the tank before it grows much is the only prevention if you are stuck with ethanol fuel.

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my tank can be removed and reinstalled without being toughly muscled.  But the nose of the tank gets some rash due to full lock on the bars (a little more prone on the left side).  

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my tank can be removed and reinstalled without being toughly muscled.  But the nose of the tank gets some rash due to full lock on the bars (a little more prone on the left side).  

 

Mine too. Left side has a mark, right side no mark.

 

We'll see if running non-ethanol helps. I try to whenever I can... afford it.

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^^^^ I did a tutorial on putting a Caswell liner in Rosie's tank on WG, but Photoblockit has the pix. If anyone wants, I could restore it.

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Never mind

I won't bore you with how to do it

 

I'm sure I read your description somewhere using leverage with a piece of wood??

 

That's how I do it!!

 

My tank does not get all that large when it's off. The bolt hole is usually only about 5mm off. I do have to remove the Simon Cowl or it scrapes hard against it. Last winter the tank was off and dry for 4 months, and it had shrunk back somewhat. The winter before I built a jig to store it on as if it were still mounted on a bike. Not much difference with or without the jig. I think 5mm long is it's 'happy place'.

We'll see when I put it back on after being off 6 weeks.

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Getting the tank past the seat surround is the hardest part

 

Step 1 remove the seat surround (6 screws, 2 small ones underneath)

Step 2 take a short length of 2 x 4 (11 - 11-1/2") and a suitable lever, pryer, tire iron

Step 3 place 2 x 4 against rear of tank (behind the bolt hole)

Step 4 lever the tank forward using the frame tube behind the ECU as a fulcrum point.

You may also need a screwdriver or something to line up the captive nut

You may have to remove the ECU or battery to give more clearence

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Step 1 remove the seat surround (6 screws)

Step 2 take a short length of 2 x 4 and a suitable lever, pryer, tire iron

Step 3 place 2 x 4 against rear of tank (behind the bolt hole)

Step 4 lever the tank forward using the frame tube behind the ECU as a fulcrum point.

You may also need a screwdriver or something to line up the captive nut

I'm trying to figure out Step4, what to lever against. Seems my battery is on the way?

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I needed to do this again today. Here is how I got a little leverage from the battery tray, not the battery.

 

Also, it is much easier to get the threads started if you partly or fully remove the metal sleeve from the rubber grommet. Once the threads are started, the big washer will force the metal sleeve back into the rubber.

 

IMG_6762.jpg

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