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Install Deformed Fuel Tank


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Ok, I just installed my tank after being completely dry and off the bike for 7-8 weeks. Nearly all the elongation had gone. The nut had to be slid all the way to the rear but no pressure was needed to align the bolt. There is a nice gap between the tank and the rear cowl.

 

So they can "recover" in time when emptied. How much time? :huh2:   It seems like the heat of the summer storage helped it recover more, and faster than my winter experience with the tank off.

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Over the past 10 years I have personally done 4-5  tanks for myself and a 2-3  for friends , Aprilia,Ducati,and Moto guzzi V-ll "Plastic" tanks( they are actually a Nylon formula if you read in depth

update. Had my tank off, totally empty, for 4 weeks. I put it on a home made rack to simulate a frame mount while it rested and I did my tank-off stuff. It didn't tighten up on the rack to my surprise

it was in this topic.  Just found it.  

That's good to know. I have read of Ducati nylon tanks shrinking back after sitting with no fuel for a while. I considered trying that with my V11 but since it is coated inside maybe it wouldn't help. Would the sealer on the inside and the paint on the outside keep the water trapped in the nylon?

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That's good to know. I have read of Ducati nylon tanks shrinking back after sitting with no fuel for a while. I considered trying that with my V11 but since it is coated inside maybe it wouldn't help. Would the sealer on the inside and the paint on the outside keep the water trapped in the nylon?

Your tank is probably fine. Especially if the coating was applied early and accurately.

 

Nastiness trapped in the Nylon pushes the paint up  ("bubbles"). Really obvious.

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My tank has one major bubble under a decal. I popped it with a pin but it comes back. I think the coating probably missed a spot or two.

 

The tank hits the simon cowl but goes right past it. I just want it to be less expanded.

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update. Had my tank off, totally empty, for 4 weeks. I put it on a home made rack to simulate a frame mount while it rested and I did my tank-off stuff. It didn't tighten up on the rack to my surprise so I figured that wasn't much help, or maybe it was. Upon installing (you all know the drill) it was SO close to fitting... but the bolt would just not start. After 10 min of prying, fumbling and cursing, it hit me... cut back the front mount rubbers. Solved. I actually cut more than needed but I can rotate the 'lobe' to adjust the distance.

disclosure: can't recall but I may have had this idea sparked by another thread

 

IMG-0130.jpg

 

 

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I think maybe Scud.. but in anycase it worked! Great! I usually wash them out good with hot water and joy and leave my tanks off for  2-4 months over the winter, that  seems to work pretty well.

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13 minutes ago, KINDOY2 said:

I think maybe Scud.. but in anycase it worked! Great! I usually was them good with hot water and joy and leave my tanks of 2-4 months over the winter seems to work pretty well 

it was in this topic.  Just found it.

 

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13 hours ago, footgoose said:

update. Had my tank off, totally empty, for 4 weeks. I put it on a home made rack to simulate a frame mount while it rested and I did my tank-off stuff. It didn't tighten up on the rack to my surprise so I figured that wasn't much help, or maybe it was. Upon installing (you all know the drill) it was SO close to fitting... but the bolt would just not start. After 10 min of prying, fumbling and cursing, it hit me... cut back the front mount rubbers. Solved. I actually cut more than needed but I can rotate the 'lobe' to adjust the distance.

disclosure: can't recall but I may have had this idea sparked by another thread

 

IMG-0130.jpg

 

 

I've read this recommendation before about cutting approx 1/3 crescent shape off the mounting rubber grommets down to the writing,,, just to clarify is that material removed from the top?,,, the front?,,, or the rear?

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that would be positioned to the rear at about "8 o'clock" but the mount bolt will secure it in any position you're tank's needs work best. My tank was a bit loose in the correct position so I rotated it a bit and it tightened up.

****PS Recall Docc's advice for red frame bikes ... You may encounter a situation where the forks strike the tank on full lock. See how much room you have before cutting these.

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11 hours ago, 80CX100 said:

I've read this recommendation before about cutting approx 1/3 crescent shape off the mounting rubber grommets down to the writing,,, just to clarify is that material removed from the top?,,, the front?,,, or the rear?

This will be on the l.h. side of the bike , from 1-5 o'clock and on the r.h. side , from 7-11 0'clock .

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1 hour ago, gstallons said:

This will be on the l.h. side of the bike , from 1-5 o'clock and on the r.h. side , from 7-11 0'clock .

umm... What?

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Some time ago, and on the previous page of this topic, I posted a picture of how I use a block of wood to get leverage to compress the tank and make the hole line up. 

And FWIW - If I had to trim a rubbber part to make the tank fit, I would start with grommet at the rear. And before that, I would push the small metal sleeve up out of the grommet onto the bolt. Then you have more wiggle room to get the threads started and the bolt will force the sleeve back into the grommet.

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11 hours ago, footgoose said:

umm... What?

I understood what Gstallons is describing that it's the rear portion cut away. Looking at it from the left side of the bike 1-5 o'clock and from the right side 7-11 o'clock.

I've been sweating bullets reading about the deformed tank, because my tank has been off for a long time, half filled with gas, but it's ethanol free so hopefully it's not an issue.

In hindsight I should've drained the tank to preclude any problems.

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