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01' Guzzi V11 Ignition Coils Melting (Earthing Issues?)


jcitycash

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Can you get a wiring diagram and look to see what might be the matter ? And are you installing the correct coil ? Check the resistance in the primary of the good coil against the replacement coils to see if they are the same .

 

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I believe I isolated the coils in the wiring diagram. If not at least this might be a start.

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Good diagram, although I suggest there should be a red 'blob' where the middle line coming down from the LH coil crosses the the top left to right line (R/N).

 

I think the only way the coil will burn is if the line from a coil to the ecu shorts out. Line VE/N or V/E. If it was a fault within the ECU it would burn out before the coil would.

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Good diagram, although I suggest there should be a red 'blob' where the middle line coming down from the LH coil crosses the the top left to right line (R/N).

 

Dammit you're right. Both the owners manual and shop manual I have used crappy photocopies of the wiring diagram that came from who knows where. There is a later (catalytic equipped) wiring diagram that is clearer but is slightly different from the earlier 15M models.

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Ok, here's something to check.

See the smoked wire in the picture Docc posted on page 1

Now imagine that red hot wire touching the wire from the coil to the ECU  (the Ve or there VeN on Swooshdave's nice drawing), it could easily short to chassis causing the coil to draw a continuous 17 Amps which would soon cook it.

 

I have seen the ECU ground wire do that when someone was undoing the battery and touched the wrench from positive to the ECU case.

The wire in Docc's picture also runs with the coil wires in the main loom it was smoked when the main battery ground worked loose.

 

I keep on saying the coil only draws a tiny current on the average, not enough to heat the coil it only draws a lot of current if the ECU stays turned on or the wire between coil and ECU is grounded,

 

Isn't that warning light the one that produces the error codes?

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Ok, here's something to check.

See the smoked wire in the picture Docc posted on page 1

Now imagine that red hot wire touching the wire from the coil to the ECU  (the Ve or there VeN on Swooshdave's nice drawing), it could easily short to chassis causing the coil to draw a continuous 17 Amps which would soon cook it.

 

I have seen the ECU ground wire do that when someone was undoing the battery and touched the wrench from positive to the ECU case.

The wire in Docc's picture also runs with the coil wires in the main loom it was smoked when the main battery ground worked loose.

 

I keep on saying the coil only draws a tiny current on the average, not enough to heat the coil it only draws a lot of current if the ECU stays turned on or the wire between coil and ECU is grounded,

 

Isn't that warning light the one that produces the error codes?

Ahh, maybe that was what was going on with my old SP. Less the ECU of course..

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Ref your drawing update,  sadly you have now deleted the vertical line from the new red blob to the LH coil, so now no feed to the LH coil.  Still, it would stop it smoking.

 

After every post I make I keep seeing miss-prints and errors, funny I don't see them at first so usually end up doing several edits within a few minutes of posting.  Must be all those aluminium saucepans my mum used.

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Point triggered ignition systems don't cook their coils. Not as long as the correct coils are used. Put in the wrong type of coil and it's rather prolly.

Oh, yes they can. I used the correct coils. The first one was an oem coil. The next two were from MGcycle.

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Ref your drawing update,  sadly you have now deleted the vertical line from the new red blob to the LH coil, so now no feed to the LH coil.  Still, it would stop it smoking.

 

Not sure what you mean.

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