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Battery light flicker


docc

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When the regulator turns On the current flows for one complete half cycle, it is only limited to what the alternator can put out. I have wondered if this is what causes the 30 Amp fuse holder to fail.

Most other bikes use a shunt regulator that shorts out the alternator thus removing the supply.  

So, can it be said (with my layman's understanding) that when the battery is fully charged, the charging voltage is the same, but the regulator is allowing less current through?

 

Again, this business of what the regulator is doing with voltage versus amperage at the point the battery is fully charged ?  :huh2:

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 It got real cold here man. 

Suuuurrre it did..  :moon:

 

Pretty sure kglm took the award for that from Finland at minus 27ºC/-16.6ºF . . .

 

I'm not so sure. We've had more days of below zero weather this year than I can remember. Finland? Yeah, they're no doubt colder. But Oklahoma?? Gimme a break.  :P

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 It got real cold here man. 

Suuuurrre it did..  :moon:

 

Pretty sure kglm took the award for that from Finland at minus 27ºC/-16.6ºF . . .

 

I'm not so sure. We've had more days of below zero weather this year than I can remember. Finland? Yeah, they're no doubt colder. But Oklahoma?? Gimme a break.  :P

 

Chuck-Chuck-Chuck: R-E-D-O-N-D-O :sun:

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I think most (if not all) the ECUs were installed that way on the red-frame bikes. They are easy to flip over if that's your preference.

 

It got so cold here that we decided to use our heater in our home. And it snowed in the mountains.  :sun:  We visit the seasons... the seasons don't visit us. So I am scheming on how to accomplish a sea-to-snow ride this weekend.

 

[docc-edit: And he did, he did! http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20154&p=230755]

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I think most (if not all) the ECUs were installed that way on the red-frame bikes. They are easy to flip over if that's your preference.

 

It got so cold here that we decided to use our heater in our home. And it snowed in the mountains.  :sun:  We visit the seasons... the seasons don't visit us. So I am scheming on how to accomplish a sea-to-snow ride this weekend.

Of course, you will, once again,  ply us with implausible images of luscious vistas and delicious pies . . . :food:

 

(At this, late day in the game, I would not risk flipping my ECU and stressing the wiring and connectors into an inverted existence. I have verified that my seat pan does not press down upon the wiring or ECU connector.)

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Docc said "So it can be said that when the battery is fully charged the charging Voltage is the same but the regulator is allowing less current through"

Not exactly, it wont let anything through until the Voltage drops below ~ 13.8, then it puts maximum current through again until it goes above 13.8

It has no way of limiting the current.

Think of a 50 gallon drum with a 1" hole in the bottom and you are topping it up with a fire hose and the valve is either fully closed or 100% open.

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It did appear to me when I was riding today that light ghosted much less.  In fact it went out about 2k,

 

The previous day I had a trickle charger attached it but didn't reattach it before my ride today.  

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It did appear to me when I was riding today that light ghosted much less.  In fact it went out about 2k,

 

The previous day I had a trickle charger attached it but didn't reattach it before my ride today.  

Keep us posted on the flicker.

 

FWIW, leaving an AGM on a trickle charger is considered *ungood*. Especially the common trickle chargers that do not have AGM specific voltages (13.5-13.8v). Simple enough (with a quality voltmeter) to see what your trickler is putting out. Most common trickle chargers are below the 13.2v threshold (ungood/damaging to an AGM).

 

Otherwise, be aware of manufacturer recommendations for charging the Odyssey AGM (if that's what you're using: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18838&p=208786

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I have the $5 Harbor Freight trickle chargers.  We had some very cold days in the winter.  And I've has fewer days to ride.  So keeping the batteries charged was totally necessary.  The cars I keep outside were not so lucky,  Two weak batteries on the Duramax, too weak to jump, and my Trooper was totally dead and had to be replaced.  

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The light goes on when battery's voltage is higher than regulator's, which would typically be the case when the regulator breaks down (in a special way, have to add). Atypical case, and probably the reason why we often see it flicker, is that at idle RPM regulator's voltage is lower than battery's, especially after a vigorous ride when the battery is fully charged.

I am happy to report my add-on grounding junction block is clean, refitted, and treated with Caig DeOxit. :luigi: 

 

Not surprisingly, the light still flickers at idle after   riding.   Showing ~14.2at idle, the light goes out at 14.35v (about 3,000 rpm).  So the charging certainly looks adequate.  Looking likely that the case is: fully charged battery exceeding the charging output. (The "don't worry about it" case.).

 

Yet, Guzzi2Go, the "special" regulator failure case: can that be tested?

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Just FYI:  My 2002 Lemans had a RR that would just make 12.5V at the battery with it revved over idle. It wasn't an issue until I took a 100 mile ride with friends one morning.  After lunch, no re-start.  Jumper cables dfrom a friend's bike got me running again, and the alternator had enough to keep the bike going, just not enough to make the AGM battery happy. 

 

So I worked my way thru alternator.  Stator put out a healthy voltage, even when I applied a few amp load to the stator (same AC voltage - no sag). 

 

So after adding a quality gnd. to the RR, and no improvement, I decided to replace the RR.  I used a newer 3-phase RR from a Ducati.

Normally, this is able to handle 520W from the 3-phase stator on a DUC.  So I used 2 of the yellow wires, taped the 3rd one off.  Ran a dedicated 12 AWG pair of wires back to the battery. I figured that 2-pair of diodes/FETS in the RR should handle the 350W stator on the Goose.  I was correct, as I've had it running the bike now for a couple of years, AND I've tested it with my heated jacket and gloves, representing an additional 120W on top of what's needed to run the bike and high beam.  BTW, the RR always stays cool to the touch...go figure.

 

She's VERY happy now at 14.1VDC at the battery, above idle.  Also note that I never grounded the newer RR.  No need for it.  Also no "sensing" craptastic sense line via the headlamp.  Also, no indicator light on the dash panel - no need for it, either-read on...

 

I use an Escort 8500 X50 radar detector, on  my tank bag, so it's on any one of my bikes.  It has a voltmeter function, so I can glance at it to see the charging voltage at any given instant.    And it keeps me out of trouble when i have a happy right wrist!

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With a new OEM Ducati Energia regulator in hand, I am looking to learn the testing procedures, then apply same to the existing regulator before removing it.

 

(???)

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I think most (if not all) the ECUs were installed that way on the red-frame bikes. They are easy to flip over if that's your preference.

 

It got so cold here that we decided to use our heater in our home. And it snowed in the mountains.  :sun:  We visit the seasons... the seasons don't visit us. So I am scheming on how to accomplish a sea-to-snow ride this weekend.

 

[docc-edit: And he did, he did! http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20154&p=230755]

 

Did you post from YouTube your Husky ride here?

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