Strange Metallic Rattle - Champagne Edition

[Chuck]

I wondered also about it being a small end noise, but I don't think it really sounds like that.

snip

Doesn't sound like a small end noise to me, either..

[luhbo]

Half an hour and you're in. Or down.

[Scud]

Hey guys, I could use a little hand-holding here. I can't see anything wrong with the head and piston appears to be in correctly, with the large recess on the intake side. Oil came out of all the places that it seems like it is supposed to flow.

 

 

What seems to be the next best step? 

• If I pull the piston and barrel will I be able to get the lifters out and see the cam lobes well enough to know if that's the problem?
• Or do I drop the pan and disconnect the "big ends" of the connecting rods?
• Or something else?
• Or all of the above? 

I bet you guys think I know what I'm doing here... but I don't. I've never assembled an engine to the point of installing a camshaft, crank, or connecting rods (though I have taken some apart that never went back together.)

[coreytrevor]

I'd just pop the cylinder off, don't let the piston drop and bang into anything. Then the lifters are right there, don't mix up their positions. Pull them with a magnet. It should be easy to see damage to the lifter, not as easy with the cam lobes since they are down in there. If a lifter is damaged, usually the cam lobe is too.

[coreytrevor]

Just remembered that the lifter faces are slightly convex, so you can hold them against each other to see if the convex-ness is still there.

[Scud]

So you'd leave the piston on the rod - not disconnect the wrist pin to take piston off with the barrel? That's how I did it before when I painted the barrels, but I think somebody said it's better to leave the piston in... or maybe it doesn't really matter which way it's done?

[coreytrevor]

I would leave the piston until the cylinder is off. Going back together it can be easier to get the piston and rings started in the cylinder, then install together, and do the wristpin and second circlip.

 

I guess if you aren't planning on pulling the piston at all you could do it the other way, but don't you want to have a look at the piston and rings anyway?

 

The only concern is to not let the piston drop and get damaged as you raise the cylinder.

[gstallons]

If you get as far as the lifters , they wear according to the cam lobe . They go back into the position they came . Let no one tell you different . I am not sure what your problem is but inspect EVERYTHING as you disassemble , post pics of any ?able things you see and ask for advice . 

[Scud]

Thanks guys. I'll probably get a little further into late this afternoon. Got a little work today, but it's 40 miles from home and I'm going to take a shortcut*

 

*a shortcut is the twistiest route between any two points. In this case, the shortcut on the way home will probably be over 100 miles.

[Chuck]

Scud.. the book say the arrow A on top of the piston points to the exhaust. 

Are the springs on the rocker arms in good shape? Ace Mallot sez the rocker arms can clack back and forth. McMaster Carr sells a radial bearing that can replace the spring and keep that from happening. Looks like the clutch throwout bearing, but I don't have a part number. 

Naturally, you are going to have to look at the rings, so it doesn't matter which way you pull the cylinders. I personally leave the piston in the bore. 

[Scud]

Scud.. the book say the arrow A on top of the piston points to the exhaust. 

Are the springs on the rocker arms in good shape? Ace Mallot sez the rocker arms can clack back and forth. McMaster Carr sells a radial bearing that can replace the spring and keep that from happening. Looks like the clutch throwout bearing, but I don't have a part number. 

Naturally, you are going to have to look at the rings, so it doesn't matter which way you pull the cylinders. I personally leave the piston in the bore. 

 

Before I took the heads apart, I took a video showing how the RH intake rocker arm could slide easily up and down the shaft, making a lot of noise. Then I did the same test on the LH side and the LH exhaust made a similar (but lesser noise).

 

I will get that posted soon - and before I pull the barrel.  I had the pistons out when I painted the heads and barrels. Everything looked smooth and perfect. 

 

On that bearing... is that something you've done any maybe could find a part number?  If not, I can take measurements and try to find the correct bearing.  I might like to test that bearing (or new springs) before doing anything else. The spring has a washer on each side. Would the bearing replace all three parts?

[coreytrevor]

The springs on mine are really strong. You definitely can't "easily" slide the rocker arms. It seems like if you can, that could easily be your noise.

 

I wouldn't have thought those springs would lose tension, since they don't really get flexed in operation.

[Scud]

Here's the video:

 

 

I was suspicious of this noise... which is why I had my daughter take the video. Might this be the problem? I think it's worth at least putting in some new springs before digging deeper into the motor. It would be awesome if that solves it... And it's not much work to get back to this point if that doesn't solve it.

[coreytrevor]

It's been a few months but I remember having to force the spring and washers in when reassembling, then it was hard to slide them around so the shaft would come through. Yours look a lot weaker than that.

[Scud]

Yup... I'm motivated now, because I have a real lead to chase down. And I have the four springs from the original motor. I'll go see if one is stiffer. Here's hoping...