Jump to content

Re-engineering the Shift Spring


Scud

Recommended Posts

On 7/3/2020 at 11:08 AM, VeeEleven said:

*snip*....
Road test report to follow once the weather clears.

My box was quite good before, with just the occational return binding, but felt even better during a quick 10km round the block. Crisp shifting and no binding.

Add another happy customer to the list.:D

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chuck, do you or Scud still have any of the new shift springs available?  I keep one of the old style in my tool kit just in case my original decides to break.  It's always on my mind everytime I take the bike out and have decided to just go ahead and change the old one out while in my garage and not leaned over on some roadside in 90° heat.

 

Jerry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I'm sure Scud has some. Don't worry, be happy. :D It was always on the back of my mind, too. It's *possible* to change one on the side of the road, but I'd hate to try it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, hammershaug said:

It's gonna be rain tomorrow, so finally time to replace the gear change pawl spring. Not sure if this guide has been posted here, but it looks good to me:

https://sites.google.com/site/motoguzziv11rossocorsa/home/gearbox-pre-selector-spring

 

Thanks for the springs, Scudder!

that looks good, it's been awhile since I did mine. One of those allen head bolts at the bottom (behind the frame rail) is a bit tricky. I sacrificed a wrench (cut it off) and used a small steel tube as a cheater bar for adequate torque. Somewhere on the forum is a Lucky Phil thread on "finessing" some of the other bits... while your in there, very worthy read.. I used three-bond 1194 (grey) to seal her up.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, footgoose said:

that looks good, it's been awhile since I did mine. One of those allen head bolts at the bottom (behind the frame rail) is a bit tricky. I sacrificed a wrench (cut it off) and used a small steel tube as a cheater bar for adequate torque. Somewhere on the forum is a Lucky Phil thread on "finessing" some of the other bits... while your in there, very worthy read.. I used three-bond 1194 (grey) to seal her up.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

48 minutes ago, footgoose said:

that looks good, it's been awhile since I did mine. One of those allen head bolts at the bottom (behind the frame rail) is a bit tricky. I sacrificed a wrench (cut it off) and used a small steel tube as a cheater bar for adequate torque. Somewhere on the forum is a Lucky Phil thread on "finessing" some of the other bits... while your in there, very worthy read.. I used three-bond 1194 (grey) to seal her up.

Scudd also came up with a needle bearing option for the detent arm instead of the original Guzzi plain roller that was't covered in my thread. That would also be a good upgrade to do while you're in there.

Ciao

Link to comment
Share on other sites

New spring from @scud. Perfect fit.

The new and reinforced spring from @Chuck and @Scud in place.

 

The black, old spring looks compressed

The old one has another geometry. Must be compressed?

 

A pretty straightforward task, except for the placement of selector gears when re-mounting... I didn't note what gear it was in when tearing down the gear cover. I think it was in 1st, but I moved the gear level pedal when I took it off and accindentally changed gear. Can I see it from this photo? 

Inside gearbox. Which gear is it in..?

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your old spring was ready to break from over travel.

From memory :rolleyes: the gearbox needs to be in neutral for the dogs to line up, so from memory :oldgit:you can't assemble it incorrectly. :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Chuck! I will set the gearbox in neutral and try to enter the side cover back on. Good to hear I can’t assemble it wrong...

 

I’m thinking about replacing the seal around gear level shaft. Anyone had a leak from it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Chuck said:

Your old spring was ready to break from over travel.

From memory :rolleyes: the gearbox needs to be in neutral for the dogs to line up, so from memory :oldgit:you can't assemble it incorrectly. :)

 

It's been what... 15-16 years since I broke and replaced mine with a factory replacement (to be replaced with the new one soon) but as I recall you are correct.  I don't think it will go back together unless it all lines up, so it kinda is fool proof :thumbsup:

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before you put the sealant around the outside of the cover, you want to do a "dummy run" and offer up the selector plate to the gearbox and make sure that it is going to go straight on. Otherwise the sealant will skin over while you muck about with it. The gear selector mechanism must be in the same gear as the gearbox for it to fit. It is easiest to have them both in neutral, unless you know for certain what gear the box was in when it locked and you haven't moved any of the selector forks.

You can set the gear selector mechanism in neutral, and put each of the selector forks in the gearbox in the middle of their travel, which corresponds to the box being in neutral. You might still have to slightly adjust selector fork positions by trial and error until they match up exactly.

Then clean the mating surfaces of any oil, apply sealant sparingly, and bolt up quickly.

Good luck!   - Jim.

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...