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Hey all!

 

I've been test riding my newly rebuilt and reinstalled engine, making sure everything is good before I get back to riding for fun. The good news is that everything seems fine with the engine.

 

I've come across something interesting with the transmission, however. Riding around at slow speeds, everything is normal. When I am going faster, I have trouble down shifting. I haven't had a problem going from 2nd to 1st, but every gear above that seems to take a second or two before engaging. After shifting, I can hear the gears turning in the gearbox. Not grinding, mind you, but I can actually hear them turning. After a moment, it gets itself where it needs to be. This all happens while I'm still pulling the clutch. The first time I noticed it, I had already let off the clutch and the bike acted as if it was in neutral. So, I pulled the clutch again and tried shifting down, but nothing happened. Then, as I mentioned above, in a second or two, the gears engaged. Shifting up hasn't been an issue.

 

Has anyone experienced this before? Could it be an issue with the clutch, or the transmission itself?

 

I've done a decent amount of work on different engines, but I have never had to work on a transmission, so this is new territory for me.

 

Thanks in advance!

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A lot of shifting issues get solved by adjusting the linkage, without getting into the transmission. Make sure everything is snug and has enough free travel (no interference). If that doesn't solve it, you could pull the pre-selector off and polish all the contact surfaces on the shift arms.

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A lot of shifting issues get solved by adjusting the linkage, without getting into the transmission. Make sure everything is snug and has enough free travel (no interference). If that doesn't solve it, you could pull the pre-selector off and polish all the contact surfaces on the shift arms.

I'll take a look at that tomorrow. Thanks!

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A lot of shifting issues get solved by adjusting the linkage, without getting into the transmission. Make sure everything is snug and has enough free travel

 

.. gap between lever and `pork chop`when downshift ? 

 

-KG-

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Do you think that re-bleeding the clutch hydraulic system could help?

 

Worth doing that, for sure. Especially if the bike's been sitting a while. Probably worth flushing the front and rear brakes while you're at it.

 

The clutch is needed more on downshifts than upshifts. In fact, these transmissions do pretty well on upshifts without using the clutch at all.

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In 6 posts, all of the simple and straightforward approaches are noted. Definitely, do these things first (especially tuning the foot shift lever and mechanism).

 

This is how my Sport behaved when the retention safety washer on the gearbox input hub failed and the hub had moved out to disengage the clutch inadvertently.

 

Let's hope for shift lever adjustment! :luigi:

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I believe there is a difference in travel distance when down shifting from 2nd to 1st compared to the higher gears. It may be that when down shifting in the higher gears the linkage is binding or otherwise not in the correct range of travel.

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What kind of oil is in the gearbox?

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Several threads here on fettling the shift mechanism. As noted, it commonly fouls the frame sideplate on downshifts. See, also, that the two pawls connected by the rod are parallel to one another and travel freely. Adjust the tension and movement of the foot lever by setting the tightness of its pivot bolt then use the inboard locknut to keep it fast.  (All of this vest done with the starter out of the way.)

 

Do you feel any odd behavior at the clutch lever when this happens?

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Several threads here on fettling the shift mechanism. As noted, it commonly fouls the frame sideplate on downshifts. See, also, that the two pawls connected by the rod are parallel to one another and travel freely. Adjust the tension and movement of the foot lever by setting the tightness of its pivot bolt then use the inboard locknut to keep it fast. (All of this vest done with the starter out of the way.)

 

Do you feel any odd behavior at the clutch lever when this happens?

The clutch lever feels normal.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

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In 6 posts, all of the simple and straightforward approaches are noted. Definitely, do these things first (especially tuning the foot shift lever and mechanism).

 

This is how my Sport behaved when the retention safety washer on the gearbox input hub failed and the hub had moved out to disengage the clutch inadvertently.

 

Let's hope for shift lever adjustment! :luigi:

Power is out in half my apartment, including the garage, so I haven't been able to take a look at anything yet. Instead, I've been looking through a lot of threads about shifting issues.

 

I read about what you mentioned above, docc. Man, that was some problem! My input hub and flywheel looked great a week ago when I reinstalled the engine, so I'm hoping it's not as major as what you had to deal with.

 

I'm glad I don't have the aluminum flywheel, and that my clutch plates looked good.

 

Out of curiosity, if I had bad clutch springs, what would the symptoms be?

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Weak springs would result in clutch slippage under heavy loads. I replaced a slipping clutch that probably still had some life in it - would have gone longer with stiffer springs.

 

Broken springs would probably cause irregular engagement, but I'm just speculating and have never experienced that.

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When the engine was out was the transmission separated from the engine?

How was the hub, may be sticking. If the clutch was out was it correctly installed?

When giving it gas and it is hung up does it slam in gear?

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