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swooshdave

Rate my oil change!

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On the great Bosch oil filter sticker controversy.

I changed my oil today out of paranoia. I have about 200 miles on this oil and filter as it was my pre winter change. So at least a couple heat cycles. I will say that the sticker was attached and whole but came off real easy after bathing in oil since November.

 

If it was me i’d drain the oil and remove the sticker just to rest my mind. I wouldn’t fault a guy either way though.

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There not a lot of pressure on the sticker, it's not being subjected to a high pressure spray of any sort. Just some sloshing. When you say real easy did it fall apart or peel off?

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Here is the WIX 51215 label after 5,000 miles/ 8.000 km. The tiniest bit of one corner was barely lifted. The entire label was well adhered, scarcely even discolored, and covered by a clear film. While the label peeled off easily enough from the lifted corner, it was really hard to keep the clear film separated for the photo.

 

Conclusions and impressions? (It'll be fine, just don't put your filter on "finger tight" One and an eighth turns! :oldgit: )

IMG_7528.jpg

IMG_7531.jpg

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 Got my replacement WIX 51215 today. Application is: H-D, Buell , and Moto Guzzi V11! :thumbsup:

 

I'll be taking the label off this time. Agreed, it is probably fine either way, but removing it should be considered "best practice." :luigi:

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Lowryter mentioned trying to get to the filter with through the manhole on the pan. Has anyone had any luck with this? I've always dropped the  pan but I was talking to a buddy about this and he was wondering if dropping the pan would eventually fatigue the bolts or the threads in the pan itself. Any ideas?

 

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I've been successful once.  That's when the filter backed off and lost pressure.   I tried to use the manhole for my first oil change and kept cross threading it attempting to reinstall it.  Subsequently,  I took the pan off.

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It's easy to cross thread, because you think it should start parallel to the bottom of the case. No. It starts parallel to the floor. You eyes can deceive you. Don't ask me how I know..:rolleyes:

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9 hours ago, guzzijek said:

Lowryter mentioned trying to get to the filter with through the manhole on the pan. Has anyone had any luck with this? I've always dropped the  pan but I was talking to a buddy about this and he was wondering if dropping the pan would eventually fatigue the bolts or the threads in the pan itself. Any ideas?

 

I just do it through the round port access cover, and yes it can be tricky to get the thread started.

 

Ciao 

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I've only dropped my sump twice in over twenty oil changes.  Good advice on the threads and alignment. Years ago, Ryland3210 did extensive evaluation of the filter gaskets and declared that the filter needs to be tightened 1 1/8 (one and one eight-th) turns after the oiled gasket makes contact. The UFI gaskets were crap and likely contributed to the early filter failures.

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To guzzijek : I suppose this practice could eventually wear out the threads of the hole and or the bolts . If it will make you feel better , install studs in place of the bolts . Use flat washers , lock washers and nuts .

 To LowRyter ; To stop crossthreading , push the cover against the hole and begin turning the cover in the "off" direction . When you feel a click , stop . Now start turning the cover in the "on" direction . Practice doing this with other parts and when you feel this work you will not have any problems with crossthreading .

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On 4/7/2019 at 11:12 AM, docc said:

I've only dropped my sump twice in over twenty oil changes.  Good advice on the threads and alignment. Years ago, Ryland3210 did extensive evaluation of the filter gaskets and declared that the filter needs to be tightened 1 1/8 (one and one eight-th) turns after the oiled gasket makes contact. The UFI gaskets were crap and likely contributed to the early filter failures.

Do you change the filter through the manhole? If so, how do you get to the hose clamp which I am sure you are using...?

Asking for a friend.

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1 hour ago, JBBenson said:

Do you change the filter through the manhole? If so, how do you get to the hose clamp which I am sure you are using...?

Asking for a friend.

:lol:

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5 hours ago, JBBenson said:

Do you change the filter through the manhole? If so, how do you get to the hose clamp which I am sure you are using...?

Asking for a friend.

If you need to use a hose clamp around the filter then there's something wrong with the filter the filter threaded adapter or your installation technique. I dont feel the need for a hose clamp around any of the other 6 vehicles I own apart from the Guzzi why should it need one?

Ciao 

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1 hour ago, Lucky Phil said:

If you need to use a hose clamp around the filter then there's something wrong with the filter the filter threaded adapter or your installation technique. I dont feel the need for a hose clamp around any of the other 6 vehicles I own apart from the Guzzi why should it need one?

Ciao 

I think this whole hose clamp debacle started with a run of bad gaskets by UFI. Greg Field first reported it when he was working at MI. They had several come loose, no doubt (in my mind) from a batch of bad filters. Then, the whole hose clamp thing gained traction. I, personally had a bad gasket with a UFI, but the problem with it was Superman couldn't have removed the filter without destroying it. Idid that, and have never let a UFI cross my door since. Not too long ago, someone posted here about a UFI with the paint coming off. Add poor paint prep to the list. Just say no.

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