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Rear wheel drive hub greasing


docc

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Haha... the Staburags ain't goin' anywhere.

 

I wonder if it could also be used on the V11 transmission input hub? That's one of the recommended spots on the BMW bricks.

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I recall discovering that the BMW gearbox drive benefits from lubrication. I was afraid to put anything on mine for fear of splattering the clutch surfaces.

 

Any lube that slings off the gearbox input hub goes straight to the friction plates . . .

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This is pro stuff, similar to the aforementioned Wurth product but much less expensive. Made specifically for open, dry environment lube. 

https://www.grainger.com/product/1HBK7?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166591268592!!!g!392080792495!&ef_id=Wo9WZAAAAFvEa0N7:20180315004547:s

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Here is the "judicious" application of Klüber Staburags with a toothbrush, and careful clean-up including "Q-tips."

IMG_4579.jpg

IMG_4581.jpg

Thats all you need on there docc.

Also a light application of moly spray instead of the grease works fine. I apply it by spraying it onto a plastic lid or some other clean surface and applying with a 1/2" stiff short bristle paint brush in locations where I dont want any overspray. Or sprayed directly out of the can when it doesnt matter about the over spray. Let the solvents flash off for a nice dry, even thin coat and assemble. Works well on clutch splines. Stays where its supposed to and doesnt attract cluch plate dust.

 

Ciao

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Here is the "judicious" application of Klüber Staburags with a toothbrush, and careful clean-up including "Q-tips."

IMG_4579.jpg

IMG_4581.jpg

Thats all you need on there docc.

Also a light application of moly spray instead of the grease works fine. I apply it by spraying it onto a plastic lid or some other clean surface and applying with a 1/2" stiff short bristle paint brush in locations where I dont want any overspray. Or sprayed directly out of the can when it doesnt matter about the over spray. Let the solvents flash off for a nice even thin coat and assemble.Works well on clutch splines. Stays where its supposed to and doesnt attract cluch plate dust.

 

Ciao

 

Makes me hopeful. what I've been doing at every tire change for over 100,000 miles has been good lubrication, but I am weary of the mess.

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This is pro stuff, similar to the aforementioned Wurth product but much less expensive. Made specifically for open, dry environment lube. 

 

https://www.grainger.com/product/1HBK7?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166591268592!!!g!392080792495!&ef_id=Wo9WZAAAAFvEa0N7:20180315004547:s

And for "Wire Rope", like our throttle cables?

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That *does* look like good stuff.  :thumbsup:   I tried a witches brew of dry moly and chain lube on a clutch spline. After a few hundred miles (don't ask) I looked again, and it was gone.

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This is pro stuff, similar to the aforementioned Wurth product but much less expensive. Made specifically for open, dry environment lube. 

 

https://www.grainger.com/product/1HBK7?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166591268592!!!g!392080792495!&ef_id=Wo9WZAAAAFvEa0N7:20180315004547:s

And for "Wire Rope", like our throttle cables?

 

NO!

 

Wire rope like cables on cranes and winches. The stuff is thick and heavy so it won't fling off, and sticks like heck. 

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I would have bought the Würth SIG 3000 if it had been available. They do look to be quite different products.

 

Anything as white as the Klüber makes me think "lithium grease."  Is that what it likely is?

 

I have an inspection interval (for a rear tire) in about a thousand miles. Not sure what to expect  . . .  just no slung-out nasty mess!

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Docc , use the Dry Film Graphite spray I sent you . Clean off everything til there is no oil on the surfaces and spray a coat on the splines and let dry . Repeat a few times and you're set .

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