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slowkitty

Inability to disengage clutch after twin-disc conversion

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I hope I haven't miss read and redundified here

 

the cup, (#5) or receiving hole that the push rod goes in to is different from 5 speed to 6. I have in my hand a cup from a v11 5 speed with a hole measuring 6.7 mm dia. I also have an oem Tenni cup that measures 8.75 mm.

 

(can't believe I'm saying this but) just pull your rod out and see if it fits into the hole

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To clarify, you have  replaced a twin-plate clutch (two friction plates, a steel intermediate plate, steel flywheel, and "push-button")?

 

The push rod and input hub are held over from the Scura single-plater?

 

Dear Docc,

 

Yes, the intended replacement is from a single plate clutch system (left) to a twin disc system (right). 

 

The parts (actual) can be compared:

 

Capture.JPG

 

The pushrod is from the Scura, the hub is from Gutsibits. This is the hub with pushrod installed:

 

Capture.JPG

 

This is the bowl or cup that Gutsibits also supplied:

 

Capture.JPG

 

The Scura system has a pushrod recess built into the pressure plate.  Rather elegant.

 

Reverse of the cup, if that is material.

 

Capture.JPG 

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I hope I haven't miss read and redundified here

 

the cup, (#5) or receiving hole that the push rod goes in to is different from 5 speed to 6. I have in my hand a cup from a v11 5 speed with a hole measuring 6.7 mm dia. I also have an oem Tenni cup that measures 8.75 mm.

 

(can't believe I'm saying this but) just pull your rod out and see if it fits into the hole

 

Hi, footgoose,

 

The pic of the pushrod inserted into the bowl / cup is :

 

Capture.JPG

 

Seems to be no issue with the fit. 

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To complete the picture, here's a pic of the hub removed from the Scura's single plate system:

Capture.JPG

 

This is a pic of the twin disc hub from the internet (which I have mounted into the gearbox):

 

Capture.JPG

 

Compared the thickness with the twin plate hub now mounted in my gear box; extra thickness necessary cos of the 2-plate system:

 

Capture.JPG

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I did the same conversion on a Tenni. Used second hand 2 plate clutch and new clutch hub. I used the original pushrod. There are some posts and pics where I recorded this. The parts you have look correct. I listed the part numbers on a picture. The pushrod 'button' can shift/slip during reassembly. I had to take it apart and put it together again because of this.

 

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

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could the friction plates be in backwards? if I remember right :huh2:  the raised flange side goes to the rear/tranny side.

 

You mean the raised portion points to the front of the bike? if so that is what I did.

 

Andy 

 

Your friction plate(s) in photo post #8 is backwards. Turn raised side pointing to gearbox like my photo in post #20

 

-KG-

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could the friction plates be in backwards? if I remember right :huh2:  the raised flange side goes to the rear/tranny side.

 

You mean the raised portion points to the front of the bike? if so that is what I did.

 

Andy 

 

Your friction plate(s) in photo post #8 is backwards. Turn raised side pointing to gearbox like my photo in post #20

 

-KG-

 

 

KG,

 

You are right, the raised surface of the friction plate I have been installing frontwards.  I will try facing backwards and see what happens.  

 

Andy

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Dear all,

 

KG hit the problem on the head. The friction plate side with raised lip has to face rearwards, and not forward.  With hindsight, it is clear that the raised lip (raised about 5mm) would contact the pressure plate and has the effect of reducing the reach of the push rod correspondingly.

 

Having gone through the exercise, I must say that I have learnt a lot from you guys, and I wish to thank all of your for the help.

 

Will post a pic of the running bike when I have time to put it together.

 

Thank you.

 

Andy

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:thumbsup:

As I've said before, Experience is a tough teacher. She gives you the test first... then the lesson. 

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