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Chain Tensioner - just pull the oil pump gear?


not-fishing

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From the old thread of "How to"   https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11660&page=4

 

Being a lazy sort and waiting for parts I was wondering why I can't just pull the oil pump gear, change out the tensioner, fish the chain around the other two gears and reinstall the oil pump gear?

 

Fitting all three gears up with the chain an wiggling them on at the same time looks like a lot of effort.

 

When I get frustrated with assembly I have to walk away, take a few doses of grappa, take a nap and improve my Zen before I continue the repair.  I have to keep it simple or take many naps.... 

 

Mark

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I don't think there is enough slack in the chain to completely clear all the teeth of the oil pump drive gear. And if I recall correctly, the oil pump gear requires a little key that goes in the slot of the shaft... which could turn the whole "time-saving" thing into a longer ordeal than doing it the "usual" way.

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, ok I took all of the gears off and learned many things.

 

1.  You have to propane the crank bolt and cam bolt until they're - Smok'n-.  Then it's an easy removal he says with his 36" pipe wrench on a 32 mm 3/4" deep impact socket because the socket was to short otherwise.

 

2.  You will "misplace" the oil pump woodruff key.  I ordered spares and then remembered some pictures from Pete Roper (big block strip) showing the key on the ledge of the case.  After looking closely with a strong flashlight (CSI style) I found the "misplaced" key exactly where Pete indicated it would be.  http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/pdf/03_pete-roper-bigblock-guzzi-engine-strip.pdf

 

3.  You put the cam gear on first find locating dowel and wrap the chain.  You put the crank gear on next and fiddle with it to get the timing marks to align with the cam gear.  Double checking the flywheel mark.

 

4.  Next you set the oil pump gear in the chain loosely on the shaft.  With a stubby slot screwdriver you carefully turn the oil pump shaft until the pump gear slips over "misplaced" woodruff key.

 

Then it's slide the assembly home.  Sparingly red lock-tite the nuts, torque then Grappa. 

 

I'm amazed at the difference in tension between the old "foot" tensioner I replaced and the new tensioner from MG cycle.

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Sounds like you had fun. I bought a super-deep socket and was able to use the impact wrench for removal. 

 

 

I used the tensioner from MG Cycle too. It makes a cool sound, which is a bonus.

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#1- how did you lock the crank when loosening the nut? I used a 2x4 inside the case so the crank counterweight  could not turn past it.

Put it gear, strapped the spoke of the rear wheel, strapped the tire down to the lift and strapped down the rear brake.  Once I torched the nut enough so it smoked it really didn't take that much force from my 36" lever.

 

It's really a "ghetto" way to do it though. 

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