GILPUTT Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Greetings Group, First, thank you for putting up my stupid questions. You guys have been great. So here is another one. My bike Idles at 1000 rpm. Sometimes even with the enrichiner on full the bike does not want to keep running while warming up. And after it is warmed up it Idles at 1000 rpm, and sometimes when coming to a stop, or corner, and the throttle is chopped and it dips a bit below 1000 rpm and recovers, or it may stall. I rode it Saturday and it was about 45 degrees F, ran great . Today it is 80 F and the Idle is down. How do I correctly kick the Idle up to 1100 rpm? It looks to me if I adjust one Idle stop screw the other Throttle Body will follow along. The manual says a vacuum gauge must be used to set the idle. Is this true even for a small change? I think if I get it up a tick it will help things. Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Hey, GILPUTT! A good starting point is to perform the complete tune-up. While there are several ways to accomplish that, there is a step-by-step tutorial posted to achieve a "Decent Tune-up" that will baseline the important parameters and explain why these must be done before attempting to simply "set the idle." The Six Steps are best done in order, and none can be left out to get a complete outcome: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GILPUTT Posted May 1, 2018 Author Share Posted May 1, 2018 Hey, GILPUTT! A good starting point is to perform the complete tune-up. While there are several ways to accomplish that, there is a step-by-step tutorial posted to achieve a "Decent Tune-up" that will baseline the important parameters and explain why these must be done before attempting to simply "set the idle." The Six Steps are best done in order, and none can be left out to get a complete outcome: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1961 Hey, GILPUTT! A good starting point is to perform the complete tune-up. While there are several ways to accomplish that, there is a step-by-step tutorial posted to achieve a "Decent Tune-up" that will baseline the important parameters and explain why these must be done before attempting to simply "set the idle." The Six Steps are best done in order, and none can be left out to get a complete outcome: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610 Thanks Doc, It is never simple for me! Will check this out. What RPM to you run yours? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Mine idles at 1150.. that's what Guzzi recommends. If yours is at 1000, no wonder it dies. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Thanks Doc, It is never simple for me! Will check this out. What RPM to you run yours? Yeah, well, at this point . . . more like 1325 +/- 75. So, 1250-1400 depending on sooooo many things (ambient temperature, relative humidity, fuel quality, elapsed use since the last Decent Tune-up, phase of the moon, degradation versus restoration of oil viscosity, state of air filtration, hor-moanal imbalance . . . ) . . . some of those things are actually real . . . I just find my Sport stays much more stable, year-round, with the higher idle. Also, some tachometers read as much as 300-500 RPM high. Which could mean a 1000 RPM idle is really 500-700! Verify with Guzzidiag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GILPUTT Posted May 2, 2018 Author Share Posted May 2, 2018 Mine idles at 1150.. that's what Guzzi recommends. If yours is at 1000, no wonder it dies. Hey Chuck, I think part of my problem is the low fuel light came on, and I read stories about running out of gas in a hurry. So I came home, and dumped some Non Ethanol Premium gas (containing a fuel stabilizer that was probably on the heavy side on how much to use) . The computer and or sensors may not of liked that too much. So, took my truck and got some good fresh premium and filled it up. Ran pretty good today, only died once at throttle chop ,and went to 1000 RPM at stops and stayed there. The throttle bodies have been re balanced, but I have know Idea why the dealer did it at 1000 rpm. I did notice a hose off the charcoal canister while cleaning it, and stuck it back on the canister. So this ride I took the hose back off, cant imagine that helped anything unless it made a difference with it being off during re balancing. So, will continue to ride it, and get back to the dealer and get the idle up a tick and the book says Vac gauges need to be used to set idle correctly. Thanks, Gil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 You'll have a vacuum leak with the hose off. Either hook it up if you want to keep the canisters, or bin them and their mile of hoses, plug the vacuum ports on the manifold, or run a hose from one to the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GILPUTT Posted May 2, 2018 Author Share Posted May 2, 2018 You'll have a vacuum leak with the hose off. Either hook it up if you want to keep the canisters, or bin them and their mile of hoses, plug the vacuum ports on the manifold, or run a hose from one to the other. Geez, think this one comes from the tank, cant imagine anything but fumes goes thru it. Will run with it on, and off to see it there is a difference. Plugs into a barb, top of the canister. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Oh, I thought it was the one hooked to the throttle bodies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 That’s odd plumbing. As Chuck said, maybe “archive” that entire canister mess. It really is twenty feet of 1/2 inch fuel line. I measured it . . . What is attached to the vacuum taps on the intakes now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GILPUTT Posted May 3, 2018 Author Share Posted May 3, 2018 That’s odd plumbing. As Chuck said, maybe “archive” that entire canister mess. It really is twenty feet of 1/2 inch fuel line. I measured it . . . What is attached to the vacuum taps on the intakes now? Hey Doc, best I can tell it is all hooked up, per factory. I took it off my Ducati Monster, 2014. Sold that bike. The new bikes (some) the computer senses it is missing. I think a light comes on and stays on. Maybe once i get the LeMans all sorted out I will mess with this. I hate to throw another variable in the mix right now. So close to having it run great. Know what I mean? Gil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 Makes total sense. I reread your posts and the plumbing is not odd as I first thought. As long as the two brass vacuum taps behind the throttle are connected to something (Capped, a tube between them, or to the vacuum canister(s). No light to come on with the V11 if the system is defeated. (Probably good to have the tank vent plugged into the canister, as well.) The manual's declaration that idle is set with "Vac gauges" is true, but a little misleading. It is the 6-step "Decent Tune-up" linked in Post#2. Steps 2 and 3 can't be skipped and expect the best outcome (TPS baseline and CO Fuel Trim). (Well, none of the steps can be skipped and expect the best outcome.) Once steps 1->5 are completed, you can set your idle anywhere you want with the small hex-drive idle stop screw(s). She'll just keep getting better and better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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