not-fishing Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 Like I said: rabbit'ole! So, no, not the high mass brass holder, but the total opposite end of the spectrum to allow the temp sensor to recover from heat sink more quickly. Has anyone tried the "less is more" approach ? (otherwise known as lazy mans approach) My lemans has the plastic holder so I was thinking of just cutting off the unthreaded end of the sensor and threading it back into the plastic holder. No Derlin holder that I have to fab. I realize I'll be "splitting the baby" when it comes to heat mass but it solve having to construct the mounting assembly. I should look through my spares as I swear I've already replaced that sensor once - and kept the old one. Sure enough I had one and have already cut the "nose" off just below the threads. As expected it was hollow packed with grease. Now to finish up changing the foot controls from Motobits back to stock and try a test ride on a hot day. Mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
not-fishing Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 voycie, Wow, great looking bike, is that Ohlins on the rear shock? I've learned not to trust the fuel light which kind-of works and reset my trip meter for fueling. Then there's the gallon of premium I keep at home - just in case. it's a boy scout thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voycie Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 Hi yes its an ohlins on the rear. Handles nicely! It also has wiesco pistons courtesy of a generous previous owner. Unfortunately having wheeled the bike round to the front to go for a ride, the issue has come back. It wont do anything other than idle. If I pick up the revs it dies. Tank is full with fresh fuel. Both cyclinders firing. Tappets sound sweet. Nothing obvious wrong. Teo things, I womder if i have the two pipes to the tank the wrong way round? Also there are a couple of pipe connections under the tank which I assume are the overflow and breather? When I refitted the tank I put a couple of hoses and routed to vent under the bike. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 beautiful bike voycie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 Hi yes its an ohlins on the rear. Handles nicely! It also has wiesco pistons courtesy of a generous previous owner. Unfortunately having wheeled the bike round to the front to go for a ride, the issue has come back. It wont do anything other than idle. If I pick up the revs it dies. Tank is full with fresh fuel. Both cyclinders firing. Tappets sound sweet. Nothing obvious wrong. Teo things, I womder if i have the two pipes to the tank the wrong way round? Also there are a couple of pipe connections under the tank which I assume are the overflow and breather? When I refitted the tank I put a couple of hoses and routed to vent under the bike. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk Have you determined whether it is ignition or fuel starvation? An inductive timing light will tell you if it is ignition. If so, I'd suspect the phase sensor or gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voycie Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 It runs the same (only on idle) with the tank cap off, so guess its breathing properly. Might try bypassing the tank with a makeshift gravity fuel tank and see if that makes a difference Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 One of the things I learned in my tank volume test (besides how absurd the photo came out! ) is that, not only do these tanks trap fuel on the right side where the regulator returns fuel, but the front of the tank also traps fuel in the attitude shown on the sawhorse, but on downhill sections as well. Thanks Docc, you might have given me a partial solution to my V11's "cough" at low revs. My previous fix didn't work. I've done the basic tune. My latest theory is vapor-lock in the lines at low flow. I purchased some DEI Fire Wrap for the fuel line from Summit racing to add another layer of insulation - just in case. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010477/ I couldn't figure out which line was the supply and which was the return so I wrapped both. One thing I noticed was the crossover was very tight underneath the airbox. I wonder if the line became pinched there after I removed & cleaned the 1/2 cup of oil out of the airbox. So this weekend I've got new chores for the V11. Pull the tank and airbox check & reroute the fuel line, if there's room put some fire wrap between tranny and fuel line at the crossover. I know other's don't have this "cough" because the bike is actually unrideable when hot and 100+ temps with nasty traffic is common in California. I apologize to all for thread-jacking. Mark I think most V11s just have a cough when lugged. If you look at the the Dyno chart that was posted, the torque falls into a hole at about 2k rpm and then goes jumps back up and goes strong. The dyno chart on my bike was identical to the one posted here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 . . . the issue has come back . . . I have to give my trophy back? You'll make me start talking smack about relays . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voycie Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 Haha gives you another chance to win it back! Relays - You think? I did replace all the relays with the omerons a while back. Since I posted about the problem it did run ok - intermittant usually comes down to electrics Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 What do you mean about getting the pipes under the tank wrong way round? (You are right about the overflow and breather.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voycie Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 Docc, ive got the fuel tank exit pipes like this...outermost pipe (red) lined down to the right injector. The inner pipe is lined to the left injector. I dont think it makes any difference but given bike was rumning ok before removing tank seems a good start point to check all is ok. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voycie Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 lukily ive got the VFR that I picked up last year as the daily ride but im keen to get the v11 back on the road for summer... the honda was planned to be the winter bike! Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 Docc, ive got the fuel tank exit pipes like this...outermost pipe (red) lined down to the right injector. The inner pipe is lined to the left injector. I dont think it makes any difference but given bike was rumning ok before removing tank seems a good start point to check all is ok. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk You have a later tank than my early (external pump and filter) chin-pad job. Let's see what the late-model fellows say about hose routing for your fuel supply . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
not-fishing Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 Docc, ive got the fuel tank exit pipes like this...outermost pipe (red) lined down to the right injector. The inner pipe is lined to the left injector. I dont think it makes any difference but given bike was rumning ok before removing tank seems a good start point to check all is ok. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk This is the same way my '04 is plumbed. Don't ask me which way the gas is being pumped. I haven't wanted to "test" it. Voycie -- another rabbit hole.....Has the fuel filter ever been checked or replaced? A simple check would be to get a couple of liter jars (or buckets) unplug right side and stick it in one jar, add a short length of hose to the red pipe and stick it in the other jar --- then turn on the key for 5-10 seconds and watch the prime. You should be able to see if there's enough flow and which line [red or grey(?)] is the supply line. Testing the outflow would save you the trouble of removing the pump filter assembly which is not-fun. Also I feel your pain. I just finished changing the footpegs, brake & shifters back to stock from Motobits and the bike won't start or shift right so it's back on the lift table and more adventures in shade-tree mechanics for me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomchri Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 My Rosso was idling fine but wasnt interested in going somewhere,, fuel pressure was to low. After paying high $ at the dealer for the Whole pump unit,,,,I found a pump that fits, and works for 60$ on Ebay, Company name = highflowfuel, Quantum was the name of the pump,,, (Lifetime warranty,,whatever that means) Red is pressure, and it doesnt matter where the lines go Its no big deal taking the pump unit out, when was the filter changed ? Its a good idea to make sure the big rubber gasket stays put on the pump unit,,, swelling. Cheers tom 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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