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Drive shaft failure


docc

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Would you have been able to see the old break from a casual inspection? How far do you disassemble for your annual service?

 

 

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Would you have been able to see the old break from a casual inspection? How far do you disassemble for your annual service?

 

Those are good questions. While I've had the front of the shaft off the gearbox output numerous times over the years, the first time I separated the rear shaft from the reardrive was 2,000 miles ago to replace the reardrive, and again 1,000 miles ago to reinstall my original reardrive.

 

I don't suppose I do an actual annual service. Certainly no teardown as might be common to aircraft.

 

My maintenance methodology is probably reflected best in the three "compendium" threads I've complied. My Tune-up interval is 5,000 miles/8.000km, rear wheel off 4,000-4,500, and tank off 12,000 miles/ 20.000km.

Decent Tune-up

Tank Off Maintenance Checklist

Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist

 

 

Not sure how easy the early crack(s) would be to see. It is definitely something for all of us to be aware of. I've added a link to his thread in the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist.

 

My conviction that the failure is totally a result of something I've done wrong has waned a bit, but not entirely. Installing those fasteners correctly and torquing them properly certainly appears critical.

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I just assumed you tore the bike down to the last bit and bolt each winter.

 

 

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Well . . . kinda. Sometimes summer, too . . . but not by design . . . :blink:

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My maintenance plan - Run 'er till she blows.

In that case, why don't I simply clean and grease the back part of the replacement shaft that is on my bench now (thanks :notworthy:  footgoose!), and index it to my front shaft that is already on the bike?

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FWIW, I could not "feel" the wear shown on that one leg of the cross by putting the cap on and turning it. More to say that this was not a U-joint failure.

 

Moving ahead on the refit, I have straightened, and painted the guard ring. Each fastener point was bent, the paint was burned off, and it is bell shaped now. The welds are solid. This thing saved my ass. :thumbsup:

I would say, don't ever take the shaft guards off your V11 . . .

IMG_6200.jpg

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The marks on the cross do not go all the way round the mating surface, only about 25% around. Pretty much what you see there.  The other cap was destroyed in the bashing about.

The u joint itself is toast docc, I noticed the flattened rollers in the first post and the hard face missing off the male spigots confirms but not enough to cause whats happened here I believe.

Maybe one of those things with a combination of causes leading to the yoke failure.

 

Ciao

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On 8/15/2018 at 7:34 PM, docc said:

I've decided to take the Sport to bits and make wind chimes from it to sell on Etsy.

Chicks will dig this . . . :mellow:

IMG_6203.jpg

Damn that’s niche! .... but these crazy days..

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best of luck in your search for (the cross) u-joints. might be a good item to have on hand, just in case. hopefully they are as cheap as they should be. if you come up with any specs or numbers, please post. I'll help with the search.

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best of luck in your search for (the cross) u-joints. might be a good item to have on hand, just in case. hopefully they are as cheap as they should be. if you come up with any specs or numbers, please post. I'll help with the search.

Pressureangle set us up with a good Universal Joint Thread. Watch for progress (or not) there:

 

https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20425

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On a high note :rasta:, I just sat the Sport back on her on two feet.  Ready to roll after Four Days and a few hours! This community is AMAZING! Thanks so much to everyone for contributing. :luigi::nerd::sun:

 

---> footgoose

 

(The Etsy Windchime thing just didn't work out, so I buttoned her back up. ;))

IMG_6181.jpg

IMG_6220.jpg

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