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brake light


Pacific c

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Hello fellow riders, 

 

new to me a 2002 V11 Lemans, (what a trip) . discovered that the brake light does not operate with the foot brake activated, the light does operate with the hand lever activated ? 

 

before I start taking things apart, any possibility this is something simple ? 

 

Thanks for reading, 

 

Brent Hamner 

2002 mg v11 le mans

1975 bmw r90s

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Hi Brent,

 

most likely and easiest to check - faulty barke light switch. The rear brake cylinder is fitted with e pressure switch on the top with two wires connecting to it. Simply short these out with the ignition on and if the light shows, there is your problem. Next problem will be to get a replacement. If you can't leave the brake cylinder as it is (it will work fine), but you'll have to connect a brake switch via a spring to the rear brake pedal as per old British bikes or your R90S, and run the wires to that instead - very cheap and effective.

 

You may find a FIAT or similar Italian pressure switch (oil pressure) to fit, looks very similar to a FIAT engine pressure sender to me.

 

Hope this helps and enjoy the bike

 

Cheers

 

Guzz

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terrific, thank you my friend. 

fortunately the hand lever does operate the brake light so I have something.

 

the guzzi is a total trip, can't stay off it. (Any excuse for a ride, "need milk, oops forgot dog food, suns out, need to top off the fuel tank, better confirm my helmet still fits after a hair cut, stuff like that)

 

Brent

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I know this brake light thing seems important but really, you need to post pictures of your bike.

 

Where did you get the bike from? I think I recall one being for sale for a while in Seattle. There was also a Greenie up there so if I didn't also lust after a Lemans I would have to put you on my dislike list.  :ninja:

 

Did you pull the wires from the brake light switch yet? Maybe they are just corroded? You do have salt water air to deal with up there.

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Actually the rear brake light is of minimal importance.  I mean, if you are stopping, you'll certainly use the front.  I don't even want to check if my foot brake activates the brake light, just something else to get anal about.

 

Like all I want to think about is something else on these bikes.   :huh2:

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Already good advices,, whats in front is more imortant  :mg: , welcome.    cheers tom

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I have had enough instance of 'no brake light' that I have taken to checking it before every ride. The micro-switch at the front lever can be troublesome. It has tiny spade posts that break off if messed (bent) with much... moving wires, etc. The connectors can be hard to remove and re-install. The switch has a tiny actuating ball in front that can get dirty, and is easily lost when cleaning. The switch is quite sensitive to mounting position. It can be moved slightly when tightening the 2 bolts, toward the steering stem, or away from, causing it to either work or not work. The light bulb socket is another point of trouble. Loose-weak springs at the wires, and corrosion. Remove - clean - replace - Done.

 

 

 

Anyway, The front is the business end, but a working rear is a handy back-up.

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I have had enough instance of 'no brake light' that I have taken to checking it before every ride. The micro-switch at the front lever can be troublesome. It has tiny spade posts that break off if messed (bent) with much... moving wires, etc. The connectors can be hard to remove and re-install. The switch has a tiny actuating ball in front that can get dirty, and is easily lost when cleaning. The switch is quite sensitive to mounting position. It can be moved slightly when tightening the 2 bolts, toward the steering stem, or away from, causing it to either work or not work. The light bulb socket is another point of trouble. Loose-weak springs at the wires, and corrosion. Remove - clean - replace - Done.

 

 

 

Anyway, The front is the business end, but a working rear is a handy back-up.

yep, the front lever light needs to be adjusted on occasion.  Just another reason I don't want to screw with the foot brake. 

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"Anyway, The front is the business end, but a working rear is a handy back-up."

 

A t-shirt worthy philosophy.....  :moon:

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Good advice to service the connections under the top rubber cap. I see this entry in the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist:

 

>Remove the top and bottom rubber caps from the rear brake master cylinder and inspect, clean, and lubricate. Use only silicone based grease around brake parts (under the master cylinder, inside the rubber cap). Make sure there is good electrical connection to the switch at the top and avoid the silicone based lubes (dielectric) on electrics - simple petroleum jelly (Vaseline®, or better: Caig DeOxit Gold®) will keep the moisture out. Grease does not conduct electricity - it's just to keep the moisture out. http://www.v11lemans...=18158&p=192643

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