antmanbee Posted December 23, 2018 Author Share Posted December 23, 2018 footgoose, Good information. I was wondering about clearance of the engine. I guess it would not drop down low enough on your jack to get it out so you had to hoist up the rear. I have chocked the front and attached straps to the rear to stabilize but was not sure about clearance. I have not figured out my system for a jack yet but one idea I was thinking something similar to your set up but I was thinking a piece of plywood bolted to my floor jack. I was also thinking about a scissor platform jack or a motorcycle platform jack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted December 23, 2018 Share Posted December 23, 2018 footgoose, Good information. I was wondering about clearance of the engine. I guess it would not drop down low enough on your jack to get it out so you had to hoist up the rear. I have chocked the front and attached straps to the rear to stabilize but was not sure about clearance. I have not figured out my system for a jack yet but one idea I was thinking something similar to your set up but I was thinking a piece of plywood bolted to my floor jack. I was also thinking about a scissor platform jack or a motorcycle platform jack. exactly. the height will depend on how low your jack goes. as I recall about 2 to 3" lateral movement to engage trans, and about 4" drop for the head to clear the frame and "stuff". Plywood and shims will work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kglm Posted December 23, 2018 Share Posted December 23, 2018 I use same method as Footgoose , but i remove front subframe away to get more space -and front fender , not to scratch. Check timingcover gasget, if it`s poor old-fashioned paper gasget -those break sooner or later - now it ´s wise to replace new metal type. -KG- 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 When you get to the point of installation , take some threaded rod and cut into alignment dowels to aid in alignment and installation . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antmanbee Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 Got the engine out today and I am assessing the condition of everything and making a list of what I need. I emptied the oil cooler into some paper towels to look for debris and it did not appear to have any but it is difficult to tell as it was an oily mess. I will be flushing it thoroughly many times with gas and blowing it out after each flush and straining it to see if there is any debris. I rotated the subframe forward and the engine cleared fine. I removed the clutch assembly and the flywheel to transfer to the replacement engine. To keep the crank/flywheel from turning I put a short 2x4 between the crank and the block as I had the pan off already, so no fabrication of a special tool needed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 I've heard of engines missing before, but that pic is pretty revealing . . . You'll be fine; the prominently featured hammer makes for a comforting talisman! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antmanbee Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 Here are some pictures of the clutch hub and disk splines. I see some slight signs of wear. I am just going to clean it and put it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antmanbee Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 That engine may be missing but it sure is quiet. There was a hammer in my initial post picture too. I thought a hammer was mandatory for posting pictures. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 Here are some pictures of the clutch hub and disk splines. I see some slight signs of wear. I am just going to clean it and put it back together. All of that looks totally great! No signs of any oil wetness inside that "bell" housing anywhere? There was a hammer in my initial post picture too. I thought a hammer was mandatory for posting pictures. Hah! I so missed that . . . thanks for the second chance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antmanbee Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 docc, I read you thread on 'sticking clutch' and checked my hub nut and tab washer and all looks good. I was not sure after reading the thread if you went with new parts or changed your mind and put it back together with jut a good cleaning and a new tab washer and just clutch discs. Did you use loctite on the flywheel and clutch retaining bolts or just torque to specs? I am making out my to buy list and so far I got pan gaskets, breather tube gasket and the long rubber breather hose. I am contemplating making my own breather hose as I am tired of buying these expensive crappy hoses for all my bikes. I have sourced 18mm ID oil rated hose and I would just need to get a couple of elbows and clamps. I just want a hose that wont dry rot. I also came across someone selling steel braided fuel hose in various diameters while searching for breather hose. I was wondering in anyone has an unusable damaged clutch hub they want to sell. That would sure make my clutch alignment go easier. I did manage years ago to do my T3 clutch without a tool with a lot of care lining everything up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotoguzzi Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 I would loan you my alignment tools that includes a clutch hub.. send an email to me at fotoguzzi@yahoo.com. and I can mail it to you if you will send back when finished. Are going to lube the splines? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 My friction discs were shot, and got replaced. All of the steel surfaces cleaned up. I replaced the springs, but only because they were cheap and I was already in there. I recall torquing the flywheel to spec, in stages. I do not recall Loctite there, unless I referenced it in that thread. [edit: yep, I remember the LocTite on those bolts, now. Torque spec in the Workshop Manual specifies "medium strength Loctite"] I had some fantastic, expert help going back together. I also recall forgoing any lube on the splines as that is likely to sling off into the friction material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 That is what the Dyy Film Graphite Spray is for . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 I recall when doing the RAM clutch swap, I used loctite on the plate bolts. Must have been on the instructions? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antmanbee Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 I had not planned on greasing the splines as I have never seen them greased and I think it would fling off. I'll look into the graphite. My flywheel bolts look like there was something on the threads but they came out without difficulty. On numerous other cars that I have done I have never locktited the bolts. I was just wondering what the consensus here was for the V11. fotoguzzi, thanks for the offer of the alignment tools. I very much appreciate that. I will email you. My clutch discs both measure 7.8mm and look undamaged. I read on another post here that that is the spec for new plates. The bike only has 5800mi. so I would expect that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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