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LowRyter

She didn't start before she started

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Took a ride today.  Got home and cleaned the bike in the drive.  Turned the key, fuel pump buzzed, hit the starter button, the lights dimmed but started didn't go.

 

Tried it several time, no go.  Same deal, pump buzzed, hit starter button and the lights went out but no starter.

 

Played with the fuses and she started right up.....

 

So, one of you guy might know how the starter circuit works.  Hit the button and light go out (like it should), so I am thinking it's not a problem with the starter switch?  But a problem downstream with starter circuit? Relay? Fuse connection? Starter connector?

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Low battery? Put a voltmeter on it.

 

1) key off

2) key on, hi-beam, 2-3 minutes

3) cranking

 

If she'll start, then also:

 

4) idle charge voltage

5) at "some rpm

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Played with the fuses and she started right up.....

DeOxit.  :huh2:

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Played with the fuses and she started right up.....

DeOxit.  :huh2:

 

On what? On every-frikkin'-thing!  :thumbsup:

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And clean the battery terminals and lead ends thoroughly and re-install them with terminal protectant or Vaseline slathered on them. When you were wriggling the fuses you may of tugged at the main leads inadvertently and improved the dodgy contact. For some reason, despite fastidious attention, my Griso is prone to this. Clean up the leads and terminals and it's fine for another six months.

 

Pete

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Correction DeOxit GOLD and when you see the price do not fall down lol. It is worth it really it is or at least tell yourself that when it works lol. :). At any rate if you notice I went nuts with something like this and it turned out to be a bad relay lol. Yep I should have checked that first but I was just used to relays going out lol. 

 

But you mentioned that you messed with the fuses and it worked well do a little search and it will show you how to take the wires apart if you suspect any corrosion and clean all connections and use that DeOxit Gold on them. Wiggle stuff around on re connection  and see how things go. Oh and do not forget to report back. :)

 

I mention the DeOxit Gold as I believe that you might not be as south as I in South TEXAS I am sure it gets hot there so the DeOxit Gold may work better and tend not to run away like Vaseline would. But as usual I could be wrong. 

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Low battery? Put a voltmeter on it.

 

1) key off

2) key on, hi-beam, 2-3 minutes

3) cranking

 

If she'll start, then also:

 

4) idle charge voltage

5) at "some rpm

 

The battery was on a trickle charge and started right up.  Then rode it about 50 miles with three or four stops along the way.  It only failed after I got home and parked it in the driveway and failed several times before I finally rode it into the garage.  

 

I think it was a connection rather than the battery.  I plan on cleaning it with contact cleaner and checking connections.  Just trying to figure where to start.

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Played with the fuses and she started right up.....

DeOxit.  :huh2:

 

 

 

Expensive stuff (Guzzi Content) ....  I think I have some dielectric grease tho ...!

 

 

But thinking it the fuses or relay contacts.  Since those are all played with.

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And clean the battery terminals and lead ends thoroughly and re-install them with terminal protectant or Vaseline slathered on them. When you were wriggling the fuses you may of tugged at the main leads inadvertently and improved the dodgy contact. For some reason, despite fastidious attention, my Griso is prone to this. Clean up the leads and terminals and it's fine for another six months.

 

Pete

Thanks Pete.  My EV would wouldn't start at times and after a year or so of living with it, I discovered it was the fuel pump fuse that wasn't making good connection.  

 

This intermittent crap drives me crazy.  I can never be sure what's causing it or whether I fixed it....unease on the road. 

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I did the fuse and relay clean up.  Only had CRC (no place in town has Deoxit).  If I read Roy's diagram correctly, Relay 1 is the likely culprit.  Despite stuffing this bike with new Omicrons maybe a year ago, they sure didn't look brand new.  R1 had a few more marks than the others.  So I took a nail file to it.  Then I cleaned all the relays and fuses and holders.  

 

Hard to say.  Starter has been cranking ever since the "episode".  

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I did the fuse and relay clean up.  Only had CRC (no place in town has Deoxit).  If I read Roy's diagram correctly, Relay 1 is the likely culprit.  Despite stuffing this bike with new Omicrons maybe a year ago, they sure didn't look brand new.  R1 had a few more marks than the others.  So I took a nail file to it.  Then I cleaned all the relays and fuses and holders.  

 

Hard to say.  Starter has been cranking ever since the "episode".  

DeOxit may be expensive..but.. just today our robot vacuum cleaner went tits up. Googled the error code it gave, and everyone says, "She's dead, Jim.." It's either the switch which is soldered to the motherboard or the really expensive battery or the connector to it is broken.

Unhooked the battery,squirted about a nickle's worth of DeOxit on the switch, cycled it a few times, squirted some on the battery connection and wiggled it around.. and.. it's just like a.... 

New $400 robot. 

I can't begin to tell you how much DeOxit has saved me over the years, not to mention keeping my scooters running. Believe me, before I had it, any bike I left sitting next to the ocean at Dorcia's kid's place had electrical issues. 

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It really is head and shoulders above any other electrical cleaner I’ve used.

 

PS Amazon sells it.....

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Sounding like "stacked tolerances." Cleaning (CRC Electronics Cleaner), treating (Caig DeOxit), and re-seating all the connections (fuses, relays, battery terminal stack . . . switches, every connector!) is all good method. :thumbsup:  (NO silicon "dielectric" grease, please! :o )

 

Nothing (absolutely nothing) works like Caig DeOxit. The Spanish Fly of electrical systems . . . B)

 

Battery health of the AGM Odyssey PC545 is complex, but critical. Sure, a PC545 at 50% (12.5v) can still crank your V11 (usually), but stacked with a series of marginal connections, or low ambient temperatures, and it's *click-click-click*, or just the Brown-Out.  I have seen, personally, Trickle Charger Death of the Odyssey. Low voltage/low amperage charging just does not go deep enough into the "pure lead" plates. The manufacturer (EnerSys Odyssey) is adamant about this.

 

Even a cheap voltmeter can be revealing if you record those five voltage states I posted. Even if you have a non-Odyssey AGM, those voltage measures can be helpful.

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Sounding like "stacked tolerances." Cleaning (CRC Electronics Cleaner), treating (Caig DeOxit), and re-seating all the connections (fuses, relays, battery terminal stack . . . switches, every connector!) is all good method. :thumbsup:  (NO silicon "dielectric" grease, please! :o )

 

Nothing (absolutely nothing) works like Caig DeOxit. The Spanish Fly of electrical systems . . . B)

 

Battery health of the AGM Odyssey PC545 is complex, but critical. Sure, a PC545 at 50% (12.5v) can still crank your V11, but stacked with a series of marginal connections and it's *click-click-click*, or just the Brown-Out.  I have seen, personally, Trickle Charger Death of the Odyssey. The charge just does not go deep enough into the "pure lead" plates. The manufacturer (EnerSys Odyssey) is adamant about this.

 

Even a cheap voltmeter can be revealing if you record those five voltage states I posted.

 

 

taking this deOxit advise and stocking up. a cleaner and a treatment? they make so many products. even the 'gold' Cliff recommends has varying applications. what's a basic kit to get?

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