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V11 Daytona project

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Just started to get this together after quite a few years. Prepping and painting engine components, what a PITA. Heads and crankcases to go. Used the kitchen oven to cure the paint today, hope the wife understands that needs must. Its slightly aromatic in the kitchen at the present:).Cylinder heads still require a light valve seat cut and grind after guide replacement. The grey turned out a little darker than I hoped for but what can you do.
















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Well here it is out and about today. First ride.I started off trying a std V11 map. Strangely my bike has a very early 1.5M ecu and for some reason doesn't present any baro pressure info. Paul Minnaer

Got the oil cooler lines squared away today. I'll tell you how straight forward they are to make after I start the engine and there's no leaks. A pair of 18" cable cutters and dedicated hyd fitting vi

So I decided to defer the tuning fuel tank job, just a bad time to do it really when you need to ship stuff and fitted up the fuel tank instead to do a leak check. Popped the injector connectors off a

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Nice. I love doing that kind of stuff.. or at least I used to when I had my temporary paint booth for 15 years or so.  :rasta:

Thing is Chuck the prep is so onerous stripping off the old paint and prepping the cases the painting itself takes on an elevated importance. You dont want mess it up and have to do that process again. I actually set up my bead blaster to use Sodium Bicarbonate. I'd not used it before. The Sodium media is quite mild and I just used it to clean up the cases after stripping. Its a good media to use if you have a small car body repair to do or a spot repair on a motorcycle you dont need to worry about the contamination of the surrounding areas. Just wash it off with water when your finished. Same with engine cases, no contamination issues unlike glass bead. 

The major PITA is the spare black crinkle finish gearbox that I plan on using. That stuff is a complete nightmare to remove!



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Big end clearances, both the same .038 mm or maybe a fraction under, perfect. Front and rear mains were spot on at .040 both ends.Middle of the range for the front and bottom of the range for the rear. Crank end float 0.10 mm, again spot on. 

​Also spent some time with the die grinder de burring the crankcases, don't know why I bother really, just driven to do it. A bit of Chuck therapy I think. We all get it in different ways:)












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Looking at those blanked off push rod tubes, does this mean the old Tonti engine could be modified into a V10? I understand of course the motor would no longer fit a Tonti frame.

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:thumbsup: Nice!


What kind of oilpump are you going to use?


German DAS/DHS? oil pump and Joe Caruso steel gears. Sent the rods back to Carrillo for a refresh as well







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