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V11 Daytona project


Lucky Phil

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17 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

Ok good to know. I didnt realize they cracked there as well. May need to do some blending there also or remove the whole corner as luhbo mentioned.

Ciao 

And your frame will connect a center spine plate to the front of the gearbox?

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20 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

Yes docc, I'm running the extra plate.

Ciao

Good, good. I just couldn't remember if you're mounting this to a Moggie Trike or what . . .  ;)

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1 minute ago, Lucky Phil said:

Perish the thought

Ciao

So, a V10-11 badass Greenie? Not just bench jewelry, I'd wager .  .  .

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6 minutes ago, docc said:

So, a V10-11 badass Greenie? Not just bench jewelry, I'd wager .  .  .

We'll find out once I can figure a way to actually get it off the bench:) Might need to enlist the help of a few 20 year olds I know.

Ciao

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11 hours ago, Tinus89 said:

 

That lowest/most right corner is where my gearbox cracked...

Hey Tinus89 can you re post here the images of your gearbox crack. The ones in the historical thread wont open anymore.

I've seen LowRyter's l/h mount crack images so it looks like I've got some more reworking to do.

Ciao 

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well after gaining some additional knowledge here on crack locations I went back and re checked my cases in the areas mentioned as problematical. The areas in question I had to strip paint from entirely as in the original images you can see some dye check finds I put down to residual paint but I wasnt really looking too hard in these locations as I thought the problem area was the lugs themselves.

I wast too happy with what I found so went ahead and blended the step on the r/h side. A somewhat disappointing result I'm afraid as can be seen. I havent chased the crack all the way out so ultimately I dont know the depth as yet.

   DSC00833.JPG

DSC00835.JPG

Ciao

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So finally got to the bottom of this gearbox housing crack. I'm down around 1.5 mm deep on a 3.5 mm thick case. Its a strange thing, something tells me it may be production related as opposed to consequential. No proof of this just a feeling in the water. Like the crack is generated during the casting cooling process. The area it originated from is the tightest casting corner I've ever seen. I dont think its from the squeeze of the mount bolt and in reality there is a front engine mount and the upper gearbox mount (that seems to crack) and the lower gearbox mount sharing what is a modest load in engineering terms. Seems well triangulated mounting to me and the thought that the cracking is limited to the green frame bikes without the additional lower frame to crankcase members is blown away as this is from a later bike as well. 

Hmmm, dont know. Next step is to see my friend the expert crankcase welder and machinist.

Still there.

DSC00839.JPG 

ground out. 

DSC00841.JPG

DSC00836.JPG

Ciao

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Nice work. The casting cooling as root cause sounds reasonable.

Besides that, I know a guy over here who's claiming he heard his box crack while spanning the mount bolt

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3 hours ago, luhbo said:

Nice work. The casting cooling as root cause sounds reasonable.

Besides that, I know a guy over here who's claiming he heard his box crack while spanning the mount bolt

Worrying. 

Ciao

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  • 3 weeks later...
7 hours ago, docc said:

Very quiet, here . . .  :mellow:

Well the cracked gearbox case has been a factor. I need to visit a mate of mine to get it welded and i also need to get the side flow injectors cleaned and flow tested.

Plus there's this little fellow (Merlin) thats arrived. I havent had a dog in a very very long time. Forgotten how much time goes into a puppy. More work than a toddler. Std Schnauzer btw.

 DSC00845.JPG

Ciao

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So here's my attempt to minimise any chance of cracking on the L/H mount. I've Radiused the sharp edge on the casting without reducing the thin section of the casing. This should help. I think the other side is the primary problem area. I need to get my friend who is highly experienced in these sort of repairs to weld the other side. The process is to chase out the crack entirely which I've done, pre-heat the case so its nice and hot and then make several small welds to fill the area and add some extra material. The welds will be peened in between each weld run while the material is still soft to reduce/correct any distortion of the end plate face. If necessary he'll re machine the end plate face.

      DSC00846.JPG

 

Ciao

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  • 2 weeks later...

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