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Lucky Phil

V11 Daytona project

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7 minutes ago, docc said:

Twelve pages and, finally, a hammer shows up. And rather prominently!

Didnt realise it had taken so long,lol. Not even a proper hammer either but a girly dead blow plastic thing.

Ciao 

  • Haha 1

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6 hours ago, docc said:

Twelve pages and, finally, a hammer shows up. And rather prominently!

And here I was beginning to doubt his mechanical prowess! Personally, I prefer the low-profile black w/blue handle DB hammer. A lot harder to find when my ADD acts up though. 

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48 minutes ago, po18guy said:

And here I was beginning to doubt his mechanical prowess! Personally, I prefer the low-profile black w/blue handle DB hammer. A lot harder to find when my ADD acts up though. 

What I didnt realise until I went back into the workshop was there is actually 2 hammers in the image, the other is a real copper soft faced unit.

Ciao

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  • Haha 1

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5 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:

What I didnt realise until I went back into the workshop was there is actually 2 hammers in the image, the other is a real copper soft faced unit.

Ciao

IOW, a manly hammer!

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23 hours ago, po18guy said:

IOW, a manly hammer!

Too right it is:) Its a Thor brand as well, very ballsy.

Ciao

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Progress, front subframe doesn't fit due to the horn/regulator brackets contacting the belt cover. I dont think bending the brackets will get me the clearance I need so I'll ponder it for a bit.

  DSC00903.JPG

Ciao

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Is it a matter or moving them forward? Or perhaps forward and up a bit? Guzzi did one thing quite right when they mounted that regulator/rectifier/heat sink right up front. Many Japanese bikes have them hidden and, lacking air flow, they overheat and are nothing but trouble. I recently scoped out the same area on my bike. I was thinking of nice red Fiamm or Hella horns but alas, no room between rectifier and headers. Could probably move them forward and have space, but then they would look like a pair of, well, hooters. 

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45 minutes ago, po18guy said:

Is it a matter or moving them forward? Or perhaps forward and up a bit? Guzzi did one thing quite right when they mounted that regulator/rectifier/heat sink right up front. Many Japanese bikes have them hidden and, lacking air flow, they overheat and are nothing but trouble. I recently scoped out the same area on my bike. I was thinking of nice red Fiamm or Hella horns but alas, no room between rectifier and headers. Could probably move them forward and have space, but then they would look like a pair of, well, hooters. 

I'll need to see but the but the brackets hit the belt cover up close to where they attach to the cross bar. I'll probably need to remove them and fab up some new ones to move the reg. It will still be in the same area but probably slightly lower and more horizontal. Yes its important to keep them in the airflow.

Ciao 

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Once done, do you suppose you'll even dyno that thing? The torque curve would be more interesting to see than pure HP. 

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11 hours ago, po18guy said:

Once done, do you suppose you'll even dyno that thing? The torque curve would be more interesting to see than pure HP. 

It wont be anything special on the dyno as its just a std Daytona/Centauro engine. Just a few more HP than the 2 valver. If I wanted performance I would have gone the Paul Minnaert route with the 1200 big bore, bigger valves and kit cams as he has done.

No, mine is just going to be a sedate road engine.

Ciao 

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So I've mocked up the bodywork on the V11 to see what the re-positioning of the tank looks like compared to the side panels and tail piece. The front of the tank needs to be raised 40mm, a little less if you jack up the rear of the tank. My bike had the rear of the tank shimmed up by 5 mm previously by me so the tank stopped rubbing on the side covers. What you see here is whats probably the final solution. rear raised 12 mm and the front 40mm. The down side is that it reduces the steering lock quite a bit, not terminally but more than you'd prefer. The limiting factor is the rear lower edge of the upper tripple clamp impinging on the tank at full lock. I can scollope out some on each side of the clamp without compromising strength and looks to gain a little back and the further back you have the tank the better. I'll still need to modify the stops with adjustment bolts though.

The important lines of the top of the tank looks ok to me and the lower tank rear corner to side cover and tail unit interface look fine to me still.

   DSC00911.1.JPG

Ciao

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Even the steering lock on the long frame models is quite limited - I noticed that the first few U-turns. Plastic tank, but it cannot be dimpled without destroying the paint, can it? OK, how about raise the fork tubes a bit, raise (or shim) the upper triple to match and see what happens? It has a steering damper, correct? The limiter is the amount of lower triple steerer tube that the upper triple clamps to. It's always something.    

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Has already been an interesting story to follow - but now looks even better with the green bits Phil (but you knew that already ..!)

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9 hours ago, Gio said:

Has already been an interesting story to follow - but now looks even better with the green bits Phil (but you knew that already ..!)

Agree, and with the black motor... it will stun!

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The bodywork lines look fabulous, LuckyPhil! Welldone!  :thumbsup:

What will be for airbox? Pods?

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