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Stock V11 Sport 2001 bin file


rich888

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I would recommend trying Meinolf's V11 map for the 15M ECU. It made mine run much better than the stock map.

I backed up my original map but it is on a different computer that I can get to later if the map that docc linked is not what you want. 

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All 1999-2001 Sport and Rosso Mandello maps should be identical. The map ID number is visible on guzzidiag, but will not reflect if the map has been altered.

 

:notworthy: Meinolf has done the finest job of creating the cleanest V11 map ever.  :thumbsup:

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8 hours ago, docc said:

Thanks, wasn't sure how different they would be across models, but looks like this is identical to mine. Difference Tool says 0 bytes different.

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7 hours ago, antmanbee said:

I would recommend trying Meinolf's V11 map for the 15M ECU. It made mine run much better than the stock map.

I backed up my original map but it is on a different computer that I can get to later if the map that docc linked is not what you want. 

I will give this a try! Thanks. Do I need to reset anything after loading it? CO or TPS etc?

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2 hours ago, rich888 said:

One more question, excuse my ignorance but does the ability to change factory maps make devices like PowerCommander etc completely redundant?

Yes. A power commander just alters the engine sensor readings going to the ECU. The ECU then (usually) injects more fuel based on falsified sensor data. There is a PC accessory that uses a wideband sensor to change fuel air ratios on the fly, which is a good thing, if you want to go that far. Some people like PCs, but they can become unreliable as they age.

A Meinolf ECU map has improved injector and ignition timing, injector duration, and altitude compensation, so is better than  a PC. That's what I chose anyway.  

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3 hours ago, rich888 said:

I will give this a try! Thanks. Do I need to reset anything after loading it? CO or TPS etc?

This is what Meinolf recommended to me when he sent me the map.

 

Attached the latest BIN for the V11 with 15M. My setup includes bell-shaped air inlet ducts with snorkels removed, K&N filter, TI cans and revised throttle butterfly valves and throttle shafts.

The base setup, and that's quite important to follow to get the best results, is:

- TPS set to 157mV with all mechanical connectors removed and throttle completely closed

- Both bypass screws completely closed

- CO trim set to 0

- Idle sync with both (if so required) throttle stop screws

- Running sync as usual

 

Target Lambda in my BIN is 0.88 at every breakpoint I can measure at during road driving & logging.

 

I'd appreciate your feedback on the results.

 

Cheers

Meinolf



 

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27 minutes ago, antmanbee said:

This is what Meinolf recommended to me when he sent me the map.

 

Attached the latest BIN for the V11 with 15M. My setup includes bell-shaped air inlet ducts with snorkels removed, K&N filter, TI cans and revised throttle butterfly valves and throttle shafts.

The base setup, and that's quite important to follow to get the best results, is:

- TPS set to 157mV with all mechanical connectors removed and throttle completely closed

- Both bypass screws completely closed

- CO trim set to 0

- Idle sync with both (if so required) throttle stop screws

- Running sync as usual

 

Target Lambda in my BIN is 0.88 at every breakpoint I can measure at during road driving & logging.

 

I'd appreciate your feedback on the results.

 

Cheers

Meinolf



 

Hi Antmanbee,

 

Just to confirm, BOTH air screws closed?  I have got them both open one turn.

TP is set to 157mV and CO to zero.

I have MIVV cans on my bike. Not 100% what air filter is in there. (only just got the bike and didn't want to release the tank unless I really have to!)

 

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I followed his instructions and closed both air screws. 

I have sock air filters still utilizing the stock intake tubes and an M4 exhaust which is free flow and a crossover pipe.

Also check your valve clearance.

It is best to follow the tune up guide here. 

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The "one turn out" (+/-) is in the "Decent Tune-up" apparently to compensate for vagueries in the stock map (and maybe clapped-out throttle bodies like mine), while Meinolf's Map & Method is evidently a much more accurate and well designed way to to tune that does not need the air bleeds.

I'll have to try it that way someday. :thumbsup:

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18 hours ago, docc said:

All 1999-2001 Sport and Rosso Mandello maps should be identical. The map ID number is visible on guzzidiag, but will not reflect if the map has been altered.

 

:notworthy: Meinolf has done the finest job of creating the cleanest V11 map ever.  :thumbsup:

how do I get hold on Meinolfs map? I would like to try it. 

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