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Stock V11 bin file fuel map analysis


rich888

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Hi All,

Hey has anyone looked at the Ti race ECU map? Are the any differences in the ECU  or is it just a map ?

I got a Race ECU with the bike - not installed - it came with a MyECU installed and tuned but i'm also wondering what is so different (and expensive) about this race ECU from Guzzi.

Any info?

 

 

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6 hours ago, knumbnutz said:

Hey has anyone looked at the Ti race ECU map? Are the any differences in the ECU  or is it just a map ?

The TI ECU is a standard ECU with a slightly richer map preloaded. And a Titanio sticker over the Marelli original. When I got my V11, it already had a TI kit fitted, which includes a TI ECU. I saved the .bin file from the ECU, and then overwrote various other bin files on it using GuzziDiag and the 2 associated read/write programs. I am using a Meinolf bin file (map) at the moment, because it starts and runs better than anything else I have tried.

 

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2 hours ago, antmanbee said:

I also run the Meinolf map in my V11. It transformed the bike for me. Runs great under all conditions.

Might I ask what kind of crossover and cans  are you using ? Still around 140+ days before l actually will find out what Meinolf did to my ECU's.

Cheers tom.

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7 hours ago, MartyNZ said:

The TI ECU is a standard ECU with a slightly richer map preloaded. And a Titanio sticker over the Marelli original. When I got my V11, it already had a TI kit fitted, which includes a TI ECU. I saved the .bin file from the ECU, and then overwrote various other bin files on it using GuzziDiag and the 2 associated read/write programs. I am using a Meinolf bin file (map) at the moment, because it starts and runs better than anything else I have tried.

 

Helo Marty, are you using the titanium cans, or, what kind of crossover ?  Valves at 0.22mm both ? 

Cheers tom.

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8 hours ago, Tomchri said:

Helo Marty, are you using the titanium cans, or, what kind of crossover ?  Valves at 0.22mm both ? 

Cheers tom.

Hallo Tom,

My bike has titanium cans, factory crossover under the gearbox, no crossover in front of the alternator, factory airbox, and 15M ECU loaded with Meinolf's #58 map.

Tuning settings are: CO trim set to zero, Both bypass screws completely closed, TPS set to 156mV with everything disconnected and throttle fully closed (below idle), Valve play set to 0.25mm, both exhaust and intake. Most of these settings are Meinolf's recommendations, and seem good. The wider valve clearance completely fixed the occasional snort at around 3000 rpm.

Nyt ferien!

Marty

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11 hours ago, Tomchri said:

Might I ask what kind of crossover and cans  are you using ? Still around 140+ days before l actually will find out what Meinolf did to my ECU's.

Cheers tom.

I have the M4 cans that are straight through and a bit on the loud side and what I think is a Stucchi crossover. It looks like the one in the picture.

I run pod filters using the stock intake stacks. 

I compromised and have set my valves set to Raceco specs at .2 and .25mm but I was suggested by Meinolf to use .3mm for both IN & EX.

My bike runs fine now, no stumble or hiccups or flat spots or hesitation. My fuel mileage averages about 37-38mpg which I think is a little low.

All my other 1100 Guzzis get 41 to 45 depending on which bike. The V11 sport is the least efficient and it is the lightest.

I may play around with the CO trim. I have it set to 0 as Meinolf recommended.

IMG_1210.JPG

post-2349-1183653001_thumb.jpg

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6 hours ago, MartyNZ said:

Hallo Tom,

My bike has titanium cans, factory crossover under the gearbox, no crossover in front of the alternator, factory airbox, and 15M ECU loaded with Meinolf's #58 map.

Tuning settings are: CO trim set to zero, Both bypass screws completely closed, TPS set to 156mV with everything disconnected and throttle fully closed (below idle), Valve play set to 0.25mm, both exhaust and intake. Most of these settings are Meinolf's recommendations, and seem good. The wider valve clearance completely fixed the occasional snort at around 3000 rpm.

Nyt ferien!

Marty

Thanks Marty, nice to heare others experience with the ECU mapping,, and enjoy the 19c and dry weekend coming up. :mg:  

Cheers tom.

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7 hours ago, antmanbee said:

I have the M4 cans that are straight through and a bit on the loud side and what I think is a Stucchi crossover. It looks like the one in the picture.

I run pod filters using the stock intake stacks. 

I compromised and have set my valves set to Raceco specs at .2 and .25mm but I was suggested by Meinolf to use .3mm for both IN & EX.

My bike runs fine now, no stumble or hiccups or flat spots or hesitation. My fuel mileage averages about 37-38mpg which I think is a little low.

All my other 1100 Guzzis get 41 to 45 depending on which bike. The V11 sport is the least efficient and it is the lightest.

I may play around with the CO trim. I have it set to 0 as Meinolf recommended.

IMG_1210.JPG

post-2349-1183653001_thumb.jpg

I bet you like it   :rasta:    :thumbsup:

cheers tom.

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I am using Meinolf's #90 map for the 15M V11 sport. I think that is his most recent.

This is the info he sent along with the map...

The base setup, and that's quite important to follow to get the best results, is:

- TPS set to 157mV with all mechanical connectors removed and throttle completely closed

- Both bypass screws completely closed

- CO trim set to 0

- Idle sync with both (if so required) throttle stop screws

- Running sync as usual

 

Target Lambda in my BIN is 0.88 at every breakpoint I can measure at during road driving & logging.

 

 

 
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13 hours ago, antmanbee said:

I have the M4 cans that are straight through and a bit on the loud side and what I think is a Stucchi crossover. It looks like the one in the picture.

I run pod filters using the stock intake stacks. 

I compromised and have set my valves set to Raceco specs at .2 and .25mm but I was suggested by Meinolf to use .3mm for both IN & EX.

My bike runs fine now, no stumble or hiccups or flat spots or hesitation. My fuel mileage averages about 37-38mpg which I think is a little low.

All my other 1100 Guzzis get 41 to 45 depending on which bike. The V11 sport is the least efficient and it is the lightest.

I may play around with the CO trim. I have it set to 0 as Meinolf recommended.

IMG_1210.JPG

post-2349-1183653001_thumb.jpg

Yup, Stucchi. And oh, what a pretty motor!

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footgoose, 

Nice of you to notice! Many Thanks, it's a good runner.

This is becoming my favorite Guzzi. I just need to possibly drill the top triple clamp to take some handle bars so I can sit a bit more upright and spend more time in the saddle.

My Griso is a close second.

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Hi,

I still get frequent requests for the latest V11 BIN.

During the last 2 years my activities have moved on to other bikes, Guzzi Jackal, Norge 1200 2V, Aprilia Mana GT and Aprilia RST 1000 Futurua. So I didn't have the time and inclination to do further work on the V11 BIN. This will likely change, as I plan do some work on my V11 (suspension, cylinder head porting, valve & valve guides, valve timing, ...) during this winter.

Also the experience gained since scrapping the unreliable and error prone Innovate  LM2s and moving on to the Zeitronix ZT-2s plus a enhanced set of software tools (programmed by Beard) have led to better data logging and analysis quality. If I get usable results for the V11, I'll share them with you.

In the meantime the V11 BIN can be downloaded here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1e7MMuO6vrUZGFfmkCtL3zsW1qeS6uDgY

My recommendation for the basic setup, which is tightly linked to the BIN, is:

-       CO trim set to 0 (using GuzziDiag or directly changing the EEPROM value)

-       Both bypass screws completely closed (I could have built the BIN and fuel values with opened screws, but this would have introduced an additional error source. My half turn open is likely different from your half turn open. Completely closed is rather unequivocal in comparison).

-       TPS baseline set to 157mV (The 150mV found in the service manual and many other places in the internet are wrong, the Marelli or Guzzi engineers had rounding errors in their calc. 7mV are not much, but why not do it correctly if setting it anyways)

-       Idle sync using the two throttle stop screws (I've explained the reason several times already. The play in the diverse parts of the throttle opening and the spring push (throttle closed) versus cable pull (throttle open) operation makes this the only way to get a sync at idle as perfect as possible.

While my V11 is mostly stock, I introduced several changes. One is the bell shaped opening of the intake snorkels, another one is the rework of the throttle butterfly valves and their shafts. These, and the TI cans I'm using, have increased airflow thru the engine. Meaning that bikes which do not have a similar airflow or, for example, have the airbox removed (very bad decision), will run richer than required. If you believe this is the case, just reduce the left cylinder fuel values in small steps until you are satisfied. DO NOT change the right cylinder fuel values or you will loose the biggest advantage of the BIN, which is synchronized Lambda/AFR values across the cylinders.

Cheers
Meinolf

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