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Hello all! Fist I LOVE my v11... jaja today when I remove the key the oil dashboard light keep on... I test removing one by one the fuses and it goes off when I remove the 30A fuse. Everything else works ok.... anyone have experience with this problem?

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Might be a relay thats stuck on, letting through electricity. 

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Is the 30A fuse, or its contacts heat melted or damaged?

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the 30A fuse looks a little melted (like is fat) but is working ok... and contacts looks ok (will chekc again later) I test with other 30A fuse and same problem.... Thanks!!!

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The relay in that circuit is #2, second from the front .

Also, since that bulb lights by grounding, check / clean / secure your main ground from the battery to the back of the gearbox on the right. If your electrical system is finding alternate ground paths, bad things can happen! 

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Another remote possibility is the wire is broken behind the keyed ignition switch and is shorting to the other

The ignition switch block is held on by two Phillips screws up from below. 

 

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On further reflection I think it is a faulty regulator, the 30 Amp fuse is back feeding through the regulator and providing a supply to the idiot lights.

I think you would find the neutral on as well if out of gear

1999_V11_sport.gif

Try unplugging the two pin connector at the regulator, I suspect it might be livening up the red/black wire

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hello I am thinking the same about the regulator... neutral light is not affected... only oil, petrol and battery is permanently turn on... when i return home i will move side by side the steering  and check if the lights turn on / off.... 

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Before you scrap the regulator do you have an additional ground to it? all the current has to pass back through the ground connections. The small black ground wire is not adequate, any Voltage lost there is Voltage lost to the battery.  A short wire or piece of Aluminium strap (similar metals) from the regulator case to a timing cover screw has solved many a problem, make sure you apply some grease.

As Docc says the 30 Amp fuse should show no sign of discolouration, dark colouring is a sign of overheating due to resistance.

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On 5/6/2019 at 4:25 PM, docc said:

The relay in that circuit is #2, second from the front .

Also, since that bulb lights by grounding, check / clean / secure your main ground from the battery to the back of the gearbox on the right. If your electrical system is finding alternate ground paths, bad things can happen! 

Thanks DOCC for the info! I remove one by one the relays and the idiot lights still on... 

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2 hours ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

Before you scrap the regulator do you have an additional ground to it? all the current has to pass back through the ground connections. The small black ground wire is not adequate, any Voltage lost there is Voltage lost to the battery.  A short wire or piece of Aluminium strap (similar metals) from the regulator case to a timing cover screw has solved many a problem, make sure you apply some grease.

As Docc says the 30 Amp fuse should show no sign of discolouration, dark colouring is a sign of overheating due to resistance.

Hello I think that the regulator is the problem... anyway will check the ground and all... THANKS!

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If you think about replacing the regulator try to find one directly connected so that it doesn't rely on the headlight relay.

The Ducati Energia is a series regulator, some owners change to a shunt type but thats your call.

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On 5/6/2019 at 4:25 PM, docc said:

The relay in that circuit is #2, second from the front .

Also, since that bulb lights by grounding, check / clean / secure your main ground from the battery to the back of the gearbox on the right. If your electrical system is finding alternate ground paths, bad things can happen! 

Hello, were is that "secure your main ground from the battery to the back of the gearbox on the right" cant find it... any photo about it? thanks!

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