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1 hour ago, Kiwi_Roy said:

If you think about replacing the regulator try to find one directly connected so that it doesn't rely on the headlight relay.

The Ducati Energia is a series regulator, some owners change to a shunt type but thats your call.

ok! do u have a link to the ducati regulator? thanks!

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If you change the r/r, get a MOSFET instead of diode based unit. They run cooler and are more durable. Rick's Motorsport Electrics sells one for single phase alternators. If you also have the good idea of upgrading to LiFePO4 battery, which will save you about ten pounds compared to the stock boat anchor, they make one that is optimized for charging those batteries.  

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On 5/14/2019 at 11:09 AM, nuevototem said:

ok! do u have a link to the ducati regulator? thanks!

I think you misinterpreted my post (more likely I wasn't clear) what I meant was get a regulator where the reference is directly connected to the battery so its more reliable.

Heres a Breva, notice how the regulator connects only to the battery

2004_750_Breva.gif

Electrosport is a California company that makes regulators in China, I have used a couple of theirs and they seemed ok, They suggest the ESR 515 for your bike. 

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15 hours ago, sp838 said:

If you change the r/r, get a MOSFET instead of diode based unit. They run cooler and are more durable. Rick's Motorsport Electrics sells one for single phase alternators. If you also have the good idea of upgrading to LiFePO4 battery, which will save you about ten pounds compared to the stock boat anchor, they make one that is optimized for charging those batteries.  

thanks for the info... i check the web page: https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com but cant find the correct r/r... do u know the right model for the v11? thanks!

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Revival Cycles sells this universal kit, which is really nice as it includes the automotive style connectors. Much better than crappy bullet connectors.

https://shop.revivalcycles.com/lifepo4-optimized-mosfet-permanent-magnet-regulator-rectifier/

 

 

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This is the one I have, which was made before the newer one I posted above. Works just fine but was difficult to mount, doesn't fit on the stock mounting bracket:

https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/Universal-Style-Hot-Shot-Series-Rectifier-Regulator-10_001H

 

 

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I went for a Shindengen 847 from   roadstercycle.com. Havent had that many miles yet, but working perfect.   Your 30 amp fuse will be on holiday.  I have some  pictures of my installation     In Series Type Voltage Regulators May 8.    Good luck.

Cheers tom.

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It should be somewhere near the seat release lock

Mine was under the seat release screw, i moved it pretty quick. A gearbox bolt is an obvious point.

Some VIIs have let out magic smoke when the main ground became lose, this diverts the starter current to the small black wire from voltage regulator to battery, it pretty soon glows red hot melting into other wires.

Screen%20Shot%202017-08-14%20at%206.54.3

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Hello! anyone have a picture of were is the  main ground? Thanks and best regards!

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Just follow the biggest ground from the battery.

Cheers tom.

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1 hour ago, nuevototem said:

Hello! anyone have a picture of were is the  main ground? Thanks and best regards!

 

32 minutes ago, Tomchri said:

Just follow the biggest ground from the battery.

Cheers tom.

Yes, to the back/right/top of the gearbox behind the seat latch:

IMG_2744.JPG

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The thin earth cable from the ECU to the minus on the battery is inside the wire loom together with a lot of other thin cables. When I got my V11 Coppa Italia - someone had tried to undo the positive main on the battery. By doing so - he (she) made contact between the battery positive and the ECU - leading to high current floating through this thin earth wire - leading to melting down all wires inside the wire loom as Kiwi-Roy shows in his picture. I repaired all the damages and made a new ground wire from the ECU to the minus OUTSIDE of the wire loom. Thereby I can let this outside wire melt without damage to the others. I recommend everyone to do as I did.

 

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Haven't been here to long, but long enough to appreciate all V11 knowledge available on the forum. WELL worth some hours ++. Thanks :mg:

( tiny Luigi story, first start today I noticed rev counter missed to wake up for a millisecond, ok, rest good. Test ride, no she's been better in 3k area. Readings way of. 157v and testride, no not good enough. Another TPS,,,,, set at 157v, ok. Key on,  no neutral and oil light on, starts like a dream, no rev counter,,,,,,, Luigi....   checked what I picked up here,,,,,, what was it ?   I still mean my relay platform was well greased, took all my Omrons out, and and extra round with vaseline. All good :bier:

Yes IPA time.

cheers tom.

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On 5/16/2019 at 12:56 PM, Tomchri said:

Haven't been here to long, but long enough to appreciate all V11 knowledge available on the forum. WELL worth some hours ++. Thanks :mg:

( tiny Luigi story, first start today I noticed rev counter missed to wake up for a millisecond, ok, rest good. Test ride, no she's been better in 3k area. Readings way of. 157v and testride, no not good enough. Another TPS,,,,, set at 157v, ok. Key on,  no neutral and oil light on, starts like a dream, no rev counter,,,,,,, Luigi....   checked what I picked up here,,,,,, what was it ?   I still mean my relay platform was well greased, took all my Omrons out, and and extra round with vaseline. All good :bier:

Yes IPA time.

cheers tom.

Check if the headlight is working, the tach is fed off the headlight relay

BTW the Voltage regulator is also fed from the same source so you don't know if the battery is charging either.

You say the charge light is not On, guess what, it is also fed from the same source, no tach, no charging, no idiot lights, nice one Luigi

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We need Roy,,,,,,  thanks R.

Just took the Omrons out, more vaseline, all good 😊.  Never had a chargelight, but do now with a diode light and a Shindengen 847 :D.

 I can probably remove the 30amp fuse.

And still waiting for Roy to say,, yes I can make a very simple upgraded version,,,   yeah yeah we all have dreams.

cheers tom.

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